Measure Once, Cut Twice: A Story of Excitement and Impatience

Try putting the tie rod end in a press and squeeze it back together. Blaine told me about this one a while back.
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It was actually not torqued down. Apparently another fuck up by the shop that did my PSC before Moab. Almost all the steering parts were loose. I'm pulling the tie-rod tomorrow to check the knuckle taper. Hopefully it's not wallowed out.
 
Yeah the TRE looks fine just the nut is loose. This has become a common occurance on mine since i have added hydro assist. Every few trips i find i need to tighten the nuts up...
 
The play in your balljoints doesn’t really seem excessive. I believe 1/16” develops after just driving around the block a few times
That's what I thought about the uppers, but I thought it was like .004 vertical tolerance play in the lowers. It seems a bit more than that.

Edit: IIRC Blaine says there should be no perceptible vertical play in the lowers. My lowers definitely have perceptible play.

Re-Edit: Correction, you're right Garrett. Vertical play is acceptable, lateral is not. Will check lateral tomorrow.
 
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well there is no real winner in this type of contest, but i trumped your 10ft doors with my 20ft fenders. had pretty good luck with small areas but big panels ...............oh brother, there's an art to metal flake i've not mastered.

it's khacki again but i can see a difference, good thing most of it'll be buried under aluminum sheet.
 
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well there is no real winner in this type of contest, but i trumped your 10ft doors with my 20ft fenders. had pretty good luck with small areas but big panels ...............oh brother, there's an art to metal flake i've not mastered.

it's khacki again but i can see a difference, good thing most of it'll be buried under aluminum sheet.
My 10' doors turned into " Doesn't matter how far you stand away" after I applied the clear coat lol. And I don't have the patience to make it look any nicer.
 
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My 10' doors turned into " Doesn't matter how far you stand away" after I applied the clear coat lol. And I don't have the patience to make it look any nicer.
the base went down ok and same deal the clear isn't great.
leaving in place is my 1st issue. it presents different spray angles , instead of turning/twisting the part.
but also kinda like the rattle can can't lay down enough to soak it all together..
 
the base went down ok and same deal the clear isn't great.
leaving in place is my 1st issue. it presents different spray angles , instead of turning/twisting the part.
but also kinda like the rattle can can't lay down enough to soak it all together..
If I did it again, I would use a 2k clear. I've been seeing fantastic results and the ability to get wet coats with it.
 
Definitely needs more wet sanding, cutting, and polishing. Looks ok for $6 rattle can until you zoom in. The clear came out a little cloudy. 2k would have been so much better.
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Well, my nephew developed DW after we put his lift on. Didn't surprise me as he has 230k miles on original steering components. So, we installed the ZJ upgrade, which fortunately eliminated the DW.
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Also decided to replace his BJ's, unit bearings, and dust shields. Surprisingly, his axle u-joints were in great condition.
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His dust shields, not so much. This is what was left and is what Ohio winters do to steel parts.
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No more DW though, and he's about brand new underneath now.
 
Your rig is looking great I like it a LOT with the half doors. And way to stand up and help out your nephew. Glad the DW was solved.
 
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