Measure Once, Cut Twice: A Story of Excitement and Impatience

1/8". No need for it to be any thicker. It only throws off the tail gate alignment with the corners by an indiscernible 1/16".
No need for the MorRyde reinforcement tailgate side then when rynning Savvy corners and tailgate skin? Just the hinges?
 
I meant valance is 3/16". i edited above. But the tailgate skin is significantly thinner.
.188 versus .120 while a noticeable difference is not really significant in the overall scheme. That and the original design had the hole cut for the latch so it was removed and set on top of the skin like a good designer would do it. .188 would have made that not work.
 
No need for the MorRyde reinforcement tailgate side then when rynning Savvy corners and tailgate skin? Just the hinges?
The concensus was the reinforcement behind the tire is still needed. The corner side can be dumped but keep the bracket that ties into the roll cage.
 
OK I've been wondering this for a while so I'll ask and hope I don't get ripped too bad.

What is the purpose of tailgate skin? What does it do?
 
OK I've been wondering this for a while so I'll ask and hope I don't get ripped too bad.

What is the purpose of tailgate skin? What does it do?

Aluminum Tailgate Valance 97-06​


Valance: a short drapery or wood or metal frame used as a decorative heading to conceal the top of curtains and fixtures

So, in short nothing meaningful. It's purely cosmetic and makes the corners blend into the tailgate better. Just like the lower valance savvy sells.
 
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Aluminum Tailgate Valance 97-06​


Valance: a short drapery or wood or metal frame used as a decorative heading to conceal the top of curtains and fixtures

So, in short nothing meaningful. It's purely cosmetic and makes the corners blend into the tailgate better. Just like the lower valance savvy sells.
I expect marginal strength increase when compared to just the tub, but it really just ties it all together. You could skip the tailgate skin if you run a spare as it wouldn’t really be noticeable.
 
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OK thanks. I always wondered what the purpose was. It never bothered me that before but we will see what I think once I color match the corners.
 
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I expect marginal strength increase when compared to just the tub, but it really just ties it all together. You could skip the tailgate skin if you run a spare as it wouldn’t really be noticeable.
Extend the valance into the corners and bolt into the body mount torque boxes. That ties the entire rear together.
 
Is there a brand that offers that added distance or would you just buy a custom piece?
I just make them with a router and mortise bit out of a bar of 1/2" thick 6061 T6
DSC_5821.JPG
 
I saw a picture zoomed in on the light cutouts on this build that I really liked and wondered how this all played together - this looks great!
If you pay attention, you will note that the lower hole on each corner lines up with the hole in the corner armor. That also dictates the position of the upper hole in that it will be the same distance in from the top and side as the lower. Below is the first one I did. I liked it so much I convinced myself to do one for my own build above.




DSC_5300.JPG
 
If you pay attention, you will note that the lower hole on each corner lines up with the hole in the corner armor. That also dictates the position of the upper hole in that it will be the same distance in from the top and side as the lower. Below is the first one I did. I liked it so much I convinced myself to do one for my own build above.




View attachment 286756
I did notice that and pretty much regret my used genright slider purchase that mostly dictated the rest of the corner/tail armor. I wish I new better or to ask then, as this is so clean.
 
where ya hidin?
gonna do any wheelin this winter?

what trailer are you runnin? axle rating?
wondering if 3500's are enough or should i go up to 5200's.