How did your rear track bar fit the bracket?On my RJ60 I ended up cutting the head off a bolt and welding it to the axle as a stud for mounting the brake distribution block.
How did your rear track bar fit the bracket?On my RJ60 I ended up cutting the head off a bolt and welding it to the axle as a stud for mounting the brake distribution block.
Loose, shimmed it’s with washers otherwise it squeaks. I’ve had no other issues.How did your rear track bar fit the bracket?
Can you post a pic? I tried but doesn't clear.I just reread your post. You should be able to flip your sway bar and run it underneath. I did it with mine. Still have a rear anti-rock waiting to go on though.
Thank you. I tried that but it hits the diff skid. Did you reuse the bolts?
Yes, I believe I reused them. Did you flip it over? Do you have extended sway bar links?Thank you. I tried that but it hits the diff skid. Did you reuse the bolts?
Yes I flipped. It fits initially but binds on the bottom of diff before full droop, so it's effectively limiting down travel.Yes, I believe I reused them. Did you flip it over? Do you have extended sway bar links?
I f’d with mine for a bit until it fit. I didn’t think it was going to and pulled the trigger the anti-rock before I got it.
Good reason to anti-rock itYes I flipped. It fits initially but binds on the bottom of diff before full droop, so it's effectively limiting down travel.
I'm going to look into a custom made rear antisway bar because I want to keep at least the stock stiffness. @mrblaine any recommendations on having a custom rear anti-sway bar made? Who would make something like that and what should it be made of? What are the torsion bars that make up Antirocks and Swaylocs made of?Good reason to anti-rock it
Why not just do one of the Currie bars?I'm going to look into a custom made rear antisway bar because I want to keep at least the stock stiffness. @mrblaine any recommendations on having a custom rear anti-sway bar made? Who would make something like that and what should it be made of? What are the torsion bars that make up Antirocks and Swaylocs made of?
I thought about that but have only heard feedback of how it is a fair amount less stiff than stock, leading to significantly more body roll. If this info is incorrect, I have no issues going with a rear Antirock.Why not just do one of the Currie bars?
Shocks have as much to do with all of that as the swaybars do. That and I don't know who told you the rear Currie is softer than stock because it isn't.I thought about that but have only heard feedback of how it is a fair amount less stiff than stock, leading to significantly more body roll. If this info is incorrect, I have no issues going with a rear Antirock.
If I went with a rear Antirock and paired it with a front SwayLOC (with both bars locked), would i achieve body roll consistent with or stiffer than stock F/R sway bars?
Currently I'm running front Antirock with stock rear and I don't like the body roll I get on road, so I was likely going to a Swayloc anyway.
Gotcha. I will do rear Antirock. Once I'm done with this round of mods I'll have my shocks tuned for the new weight. Thinking they may be a bit undervalved at this point. Thank you.Shocks have as much to do with all of that as the swaybars do. That and I don't know who told you the rear Currie is softer than stock because it isn't.
The SwayLOC front with a Currie Rear is equivalent to stock at lifted heights. Stock is good at stock height, it could be better on a lifted rig. The SL is stiffer than stock but comes back a bit due to longer arms but still is probably stiffer.
That said, with the Currie front and rear and the Fox DSC reservoirs, we can drift a TJ or TJ Unlimited around corners on 37's and 40's with very little body roll.
That said, with the Currie front and rear and the Fox DSC reservoirs, we can drift a TJ or TJ Unlimited around corners on 37's and 40's with very little body roll.
For future reference, the later TJ's with the coil rail are a waste fire system. There are only 3 coils for 6 cylinders. Each coil fires a plug on the compression stroke and a second on an exhaust stroke which means plugs should be changed about twice as often as normal.Took the time to replace the spark plugs yesterday. They had been sitting on the shelf for quite some time, by it ran fine so I kept putting it off.
Inspecting the old ones indicated the fallacy of it "running fine." Each gap was well over 55 the largest gap on my gapping tool. you could drive a semi thru the gaps.
FWIW, only needed to gap 2 of the 6 new plugs to bring all into spec, also bringing to light the fallacy of plugs being able to be installed out of the box. Even if they were pregapped, that doesn't account for shipping and dropping instances that may affect the gap as the plug gets bounced around in the box.
With all that said, it was long overdue.
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