Metal cutting tools: what's really the best option?

Anybody ever use a drill attached nibbler? Just curios how they work. Youtube makes them look great.
I use to use an air powered nibbler, in the car sterio installation business some 35 years ago. Worked great for cutting sheet metal holes in tight spots but it leaves these fishhook pieces of sharp metal everywhere. I wouldn’t own another nibler.
 
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You mentioned 4 hours of use, the average Jeep owner will never use a plasma for 4 hours on one vehicle over its lifetime of ownership. There simply isn't that much you can cut.
The average Jeep owner will never use plasma or a grinder most likely. The good folks here are not average (or normal for that matter). Lol.
 
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I ended up with the jigsaw (and an oscillating tool) first because I have a corded grinder and sawzall that still work and had home and shop repairs to do as well.

Milwaukee has really stepped up their game recently with all their line and especially in the mechanics tools. More power, more compact and definitely a lot more in types of tools as well.
I have a dewalt batt op oscillating tool. That dang thing is SUPER handy for home repairs. I really think the jigsaw will be purchased shortly...Like you, I have corded versions of the other tools. My jigsaw cabinet is totally empty.
 
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Nice tools!! Yes big distiction when the tool is portable/handheld. I’ve been gathering stuff like you have for when I retire.

I'm in my 10th yr of retirement and am starting to get rid of some tools. The first thing I should do though is try to shorten my list of projects! :rolleyes:
 
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Ive got a B2 Beverly and it comes in handy quite a bit. Anything I can cut or punch without throwing dust or sharp shavings everywhere is a bonus for me.

Also have several roper Whitney hole punches, a few model 20's and even a rare model 40 that'll do 30 tons.

Haven't fixed it up yet, but also have an Edwards 5B alligator shear, it's rated to shear 1/2" plate, the handle is about 7 feet long lol

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That's some nice heavy duty stuff! (y)
 
I just added this thing to the shop. Notice, it's cordless...

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Ive got a B2 Beverly and it comes in handy quite a bit. Anything I can cut or punch without throwing dust or sharp shavings everywhere is a bonus for me.

Also have several roper Whitney hole punches, a few model 20's and even a rare model 40 that'll do 30 tons.

Haven't fixed it up yet, but also have an Edwards 5B alligator shear, it's rated to shear 1/2" plate, the handle is about 7 feet long lol

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The cleaner tools do have a draw. I picked up a old ironworker in really good shape not long ago. Did a couple jobs with it and noticed right away it was easier and cleaner. It’s a little scotchman by Dvorjack (sp??) 35 ton and came with a lot of dies. Slotted, square, round in many sizes.

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I'm convinced that is not possible! ;)
Been retired for 7 years and my list never gets shorter. I’ve learned that as soon as I get one knocked off the list another pops up. I don’t know how I got anything done when I worked full time. The good thing is I have a 1600 sq ft shop and plenty of room and reasons to buy more tools. My next purchase will be switching from the Porter-Cable Universe and going to the Milwaukee Universe. Just waiting for someone to have a good sale.
 
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If you aren't cutting on the vehicle buy a 14" bandsaw from Jet and a good blade from Mores and be done with it. Drill holes in corners for the radius and cut into them. It will do almost anything. That and a Harbor Freight 12I disc grinder will become your go to tools. And it cuts wood and aluminum.
An angle grinder and wheels are good to do finish work on the band saw cuts.
 
The cleaner tools do have a draw. I picked up a old ironworker in really good shape not long ago. Did a couple jobs with it and noticed right away it was easier and cleaner. It’s a little scotchman by Dvorjack (sp??) 35 ton and came with a lot of dies. Slotted, square, round in many sizes.

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Yeah I almost picked up an ironworker for cheap, but couldn't make the drive to Seattle for it. Shears tend to distort the metal a bit, especially the Beverly if you can't hold it firm enough, been meaning to make a clamp for mine.

I love the Whitney hole punches though, the 20 will do a 1/2" hole through 1/2" plate. My model 40 can go up to 1" holes through 3/8" plate and has a decent throat, sure beats a hole saw.

I've got a few 20's, want to make a rotating cube table to hold 4 of them, each loaded with a different side so I can just spin it to the size I need and punch the hole. The little slugs they make can come in handy too.
 
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Yeah I almost picked up an ironworker for cheap, but couldn't make the drive to Seattle for it. Shears tend to distort the metal a bit, especially the Beverly if you can't hold it firm enough, been meaning to make a clamp for mine.

I love the Whitney hole punches though, the 20 will do a 1/2" hole through 1/2" plate. My model 40 can go up to 1" holes through 3/8" plate and has a decent throat, sure beats a hole saw.

I've got a few 20's, want to make a rotating cube table to hold 4 of them, each loaded with a different side so I can just spin it to the size I need and punch the hole. The little slugs they make can come in handy too.
Those are some big bites! When I first tried the shear, I noticed the distortion on the cut. I built/bought another set of blades and it did the same. I learned the hard way that its normal.

So the cube table your describing, like a turret or four separate stations you can work at?
 
Those are some big bites! When I first tried the shear, I noticed the distortion on the cut. I built/bought another set of blades and it did the same. I learned the hard way that its normal.

So the cube table your describing, like a turret or four separate stations you can work at?
Yeah, depends on the type of shear for distortion I think. Some, like an angle iron notcher, have special blades available to reduce it. The Beverly shear always curls at least half of your cut, the half under the moving blade, but if you can clamp the other half securely it seems to reduce it. I mostly use it on 1/8" which is the B2's max capacity, so that doesn't help much either.

The table I'm thinking just like a 12" cube with four model 20 punches mounted on four of the six faces. Then make the cube pivot about it's center with a spring loaded pin or something to index every 90*. Then I could have a punch with 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", and 1/2" all loaded and ready to go. Four stations in the same space as one
 
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