Micrometer

That one you posted is fine. The knob on the end is a friction stop so you always have the same (consistant) clamping force, which is alot less than what the carrier will apply.
 
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You guys are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks...
 
I’d have to borrow calipers that nice. Wanna learn to re-gear?
If you can wait until January.....I would like to learn about regearing. I hold a degree from the YTI (YouTube Technical Institute) and We did shim the pinion on my sons dana 60 successfully but didn't have to do anything else.
 
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If you can wait until January.....I would like to learn about regearing. I hold a degree from the YTI (YouTube Technical Institute) and We did shim the pinion on my sons dana 60 successfully but didn't have to do anything else.
MAybe we were classmates, but it was YTTI, remember?
 
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I borrowed one from the machinist at the base. Someone should know a good brand
I’m also going to have to fab up one of those pinion yoke wrench’s, unless you know an easier way. I’m Not spending $30 on that!
 
I’m also going to have to fab up one of those pinion yoke wrench’s, unless you know an easier way. I’m Not spending $30 on that!
I used a big pipe wrench. With aluminum inside the jaws to keep it from biting the yoke.
 
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Also you will need something like this to check backlash
Edit............Not a recommendation of this particular product
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...XujO7OT4YeoTz14b7sPGU_ftwqBSC5MBoCTlEQAvD_BwE

What he said to measure backlash.^^^

This to measure shim stack.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GHCP9H/?tag=wranglerorg-20

You'll need a die grinder and a carbide bide bit to make some setup bearings, unless you pony up for the air tool that will press on/off the carrier bearings during setup.
Impact gun and, of course, dial 1/4 drive torque wrench to measure pinion preload, and 1/2 torque wrench to send the yoke home.
I'm sure I forgot stuff. @Rob5589?
 
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My dial indicator is an older Starrett, but i imagine most any decent one would work also a magnetic base is needed.

If you do buy a yoke tool, don't buy this style, i was helping a buddy set his gears and the hole for the breaker bar was so deformed you'd never be able to use it again.

0_15352534598111122372067026802.jpg

Small flap wheel for making setup bearings. Even with a puller you're liable to mess up the new bearings with repeated removal.

Torque wrenches.

I think shim drivers are necessary, some guys are skilled enough to do without, just not me.

It's very satisfying to set your own gears, but it is alot of cost in tools to do it if your only going to do it once. For a few hundred more you could pay someone...... but where's the fun in that?
 
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The race driver for the inner and outer pinion. I think I can borrow those from AutoZone.
 
I’m hoping to get another TJ for my older three (14, 13 and 13) soon. Then we can re-gear it when the time comes. So, I may need these tools again. I drew out and sent a basic design for a pinion nut wrench to a friend who does metal work. I’ts different than that one. It’s 1/4” steel plate with a peninsula sticking off for a breaker bar to slip on
 
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I use one like this. At work i do them on a lift so i put a 8' piece of exhaust pipe on the handle and the floor keeps it from turning. A short pipe would do the same if your working on your back. He probably could make one easily for you.

15352551208594771973739736240580.jpg
 
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I use one like this. At work i do them on a lift so i put a 8' piece of exhaust pipe on the handle and the floor keeps it from turning. A short pipe would do the same if your working on your back. He probably could make one easily for you.

View attachment 52982
I saw one of those. They look very ideal for the job. I’ll send him a design like that and be done with it. Reminds me of that staff in Indiana Jones when they were looking for the location of the ark of the covenant (except the staff was removable)
 
No need to get crazy. My stuff is wellllll used and was inexpensive.
VAUakjr382LJzTEsm0OInSnFIB-DaSVETo7z__EvRQMP8Xx-LlnBuuDjOH5o3sYjjqI87VblYztD5neK5M=w1122-h631-no.jpg


We didn't use speaders, yoke holders, etc. To torque the pinion nut I hold the yoke and buzz down the nut with a 1/2" impact gun until the pre-load is correct. In the shop we used expensive Snap On dial inch pound torque wrenches. For my home jobs I use a beam style 1/4" inch pound torque wrench. Works fine for infrequent jobs.
 
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