Modified Teraflex high steer knuckle with double shear? Can it be done?

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Matrix311

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Jan 3, 2024
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Tempe, AZ
Hello all
Recently aquired a 2006 LJ from a one time Arizona owner. Great rig with a good amount of work already done to it. The rear already has coilovers done on it and the front is modified somewhat but no coilover conversion done up front yet. My plan is to remove the teraflex LCG old school kit that he installed on it years ago and replace with some ADS coilovers. To do that, i need to get rid of the Synergy HD y-steering setup he has and move to a separate tie rod and drag link, more of a high steer system. To do that I was considering the teraflex high steer knuckle which I can buy from a local friend who bought it new but never used it. I was wondering if this knuckle can be modified for a double shear setup to add some strength to the steering instead of using long through bolts single shear heim setup. Has anyone modified this knuckle before?

The other kicker is i'm going to orde the 17" Black Magic big brake kit. My LJ is a rubicon so it has the dana 44 up front. Its been trussed, the c-gussets reinforced, 5.13 gears, yukon zip locker, PSC steering, HD Synergy steering, Metalcloack track bar and stock style suspension s how it currently sits. I want to do the BMB 17" Big Brake kit and use the teraflex high steer knuckle on the passenger side so I can move to the separate track bar and tie rid and do 1 ton heims on there. I would prefer double shear modification if it can be done. I will also need to relocate the track bar bracket and psc ram mount axle side to a different location for clearance and also relocate the frame side track bar mount and beef that up. So lots of changes in the steering to be able to fit the coilovers and the added suspension travel and I also need to be able to clear the large calipers with the black magic brake kit. Blaine will send me a modified driver side knuckle and i'll need to machine the teraflex passenger side to fit the caliper brackets etc.

I'm trying to decide between the teraflex high steer knuckle and machining that to fit the BMB caliper or just getting his replacment knuckles he sends out and having a local shop weld on a double sheer bracket on that knuckle if that can be done. I'm not totally familiar with his new style knuckles he sends with these kits.

Any feedback is appreciated as i'm trying to figure out how to move forward. I would prefer double shear axle side for my steering if at all possible.
 
What is the Teraflex high steer doing for you that an upgraded stock style (ie Currectlync) won’t?

What you’re describing sounds like an insane amount of work for what can be done much easier/cheaper with better results.
 
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PNW_LJ said:
What is the Teraflex high steer doing for you that an upgraded stock style (ie Currectlync) won’t?

What you’re describing sounds like an insane amount of work for what can be done much easier/cheaper with better results.
Click to expand...

I'm installing coilovers as noted in my OP. Due to the amount of travel the coilovers provide, anything with tie rod ends will bind at full droop. I need to move to heims. For clearance reasons, I also need to move the current PSC RAM mount location which is on the drag link and at a weird angle and move the RAM to mount to the tie rod so its on the same horizontal plane. Yes its a lot of work for sure to get all the parts to sync up and allow for max travel both directions without having clearance issues.
 
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Matrix311 said:
I'm installing coilovers as noted in my OP. Due to the amount of travel the coilovers provide, anything with tie rod ends will bind at full droop. I need to move to heims. For clearance reasons, I also need to move the current PSC RAM mount location which is on the drag link and at a weird angle and move the RAM to mount to the tie rod so its on the same horizontal plane. Yes its a lot of work for sure to get all the parts to sync up and allow for max travel both directions without having clearance issues.
Click to expand...

I gotchu. Can you share more on the desired setup (CO travels, lift height, up/downtravel proportion, tire size, etc)?

I know the Currectlync resets the TREs range of motion to stock, for a 4” lift. That’s part of why most folks don’t have issues with them on the typical 11-12” shock with a 50/50 travel split. Much longer than that, and I’m curious on the packaging with stock width axles.

Not trying to shit on your parade, just looking if there’s an easier solution to your problem.
 
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Matrix311 said:
I'm installing coilovers as noted in my OP. Due to the amount of travel the coilovers provide, anything with tie rod ends will bind at full droop. I need to move to heims. For clearance reasons, I also need to move the current PSC RAM mount location which is on the drag link and at a weird angle and move the RAM to mount to the tie rod so its on the same horizontal plane. Yes its a lot of work for sure to get all the parts to sync up and allow for max travel both directions without having clearance issues.
Click to expand...

How much travel are you expecting from the coilovers? Mine has 12" shock travel on the front with flipped Currie steering and no binding at the TREs.
 
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I have 14" ADS coiloves i'll be putting in to match the 14" ADS coilovers in back. Here are a few photos of how the jeep sits currently.

lj-1.jpg


frontaxlesteering.jpg


0421c4185e47a8279df0e9820ff79fa54a55dd72-1.jpg


I want do a similar setup to what i've done on my TJ. Here is my new LJ and my TJ i've had for around 7 years. This is my goal but double shear on the LJ.
tj steering.jpg
 
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To my untrained eye, it looks like there’s about 3-4” of up, and 10” down on those shocks.

That’s different from how most here set up their suspension (50/50 travel split being the standard). But there’s still a couple folks here that can chime in with ideas on your steering setup

I think with that travel split, there would be other issues preventing full use of that downtravel: DS binding, sway bar link binding, excessive bushing wear, and of course, packaging issues on stock width axles while keeping a sane scrub radius.

Not saying you shouldn’t do it, just my thoughts, more knowledgeable folks will chime in and correct me.
 
PNW_LJ said:
To my untrained eye, it looks like there’s about 3-4” of up, and 10” down on those shocks.

That’s different from how most here set up their suspension (50/50 travel split being the standard). But there’s still a couple folks here that can chime in with ideas on your steering setup

I think with that travel split, there would be other issues preventing full use of that downtravel: DS binding, sway bar link binding, excessive bushing wear, and of course, packaging issues on stock width axles while keeping a sane scrub radius.

Not saying you shouldn’t do it, just my thoughts, more knowledgeable folks will chime in and correct me.
Click to expand...

If this LJ has stock width axles, then 14" shock travel will mash the inner sidewall into the the coilover at full articulation and prevent steering in that position. That can be addressed with less backspacing. But then the steering will be garbage while the ball joints suffer.
 
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Matrix311 said:
I'm trying to decide between the teraflex high steer knuckle and machining that to fit the BMB caliper or just getting his replacment knuckles he sends out and having a local shop weld on a double sheer bracket on that knuckle if that can be done. I'm not totally familiar with his new style knuckles he sends with these kits.
Click to expand...
They are still the same as the picture I sent over in email. The steering arm is in the stock location.
1706910370729.png
 
jjvw said:
If this LJ has stock width axles, then 14" shock travel will mash the inner sidewall into the the coilover at full articulation and prevent steering in that position.
Click to expand...

You’re assuming OP has more than 3” of up..
 
Matrix311 said:
I'm installing coilovers as noted in my OP. Due to the amount of travel the coilovers provide, anything with tie rod ends will bind at full droop.
Click to expand...
That isn't entirely accurate. If you run the HMA versions of the tie rod ends on the draglink, they have more than enough misalignment. I use them with 14" travel coil overs on every one I do. That and they don't wear nearly as fast as rod ends do.
 
mrblaine said:
That isn't entirely accurate. If you run the HMA versions of the tie rod ends on the draglink, they have more than enough misalignment. I use them with 14" travel coil overs on every one I do. That and they don't wear nearly as fast as rod ends do.
Click to expand...

Which steering kit are you talking about? You mentioned HMA is that High Miss Alignment? If so, can I just change the tie rod ends on my draglink on my synergy y-setup HD steering with these TRE's to help prevent them from binding?
 
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