More parking brakes!

[macleanflood]

I want more parking brakes! Too many times I've been out winching vehicles and the rear drum brakes just don't hold the Jeep. Thinking about adding this on the driver's side kick panel just under the dash. I'd need a couple of brake lines to the proportioning/shuttle valve and maybe a couple 1/8" bulkhead fittings. (Any suggestions for those?) Push hard on the brake petal and engage this valve...

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...l-Hydraulic-Parking-Brake-Line-Lock,1970.html


Example of sliding...what good is a remote winch controller if you have to sit in the cab holding the brake?

-Mac

 

[Apparition]

I first thought of wheel chocks and sure enough there's a thread on them and you are in it.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/wheel-chocks-for-winching.59230/

 

[Rubiconned]

Sometimes you can anchor the jeep with a line to the rear.

 

[PNW_LJ]

Sometimes you can anchor the jeep with a line to the rear.

And tweak my frame? No thank you. I’ll do everything I can before I anchor.

 

[macleanflood]

And tweak my frame? No thank you. I’ll do everything I can before I anchor.

Exactly. And wheel chocks are bulky, heavy and dirty. Which means I'll take them out and forget to put them back.

And...holding my brakes works. I just need something to do just that.

I was thinking about an electric solenoid line lock but the valve seems more mechanical and less prone to failure.

-Mac

 

[ColoJeep]

Check out Mico lock .

They have been around along time with a great track record. Our power company was using this on winch truck applications in the late 70's.

 

[mrblaine]

Exactly. And wheel chocks are bulky, heavy and dirty. Which means I'll take them out and forget to put them back.

And...holding my brakes works. I just need something to do just that.

I was thinking about an electric solenoid line lock but the valve seems more mechanical and less prone to failure.

-Mac

You need to be able to lock both circuits. If I was doing it, I would rig up cable actuated stainless ball valves in both lines out of the master. Push the pedal down, close the valves from in the cab, done. The problem with any of the electric line lock stuff is generally they are not a direct acting solenoid which means you need more pressure than they were applied with to unlock them. I've seen a few instances where they wouldn't unlock due to a panic press at the initial application and more pressure couldn't be applied to get them to release. The second issue with a lot of the electric line lock stuff is they are not constant duty and tend to burn out the coils on the magnet if left applied too long. Or some detrimental effect from not being constant duty. Emphasis on generally and typically.

You can however, crack a bleeder to get them unstuck if that happens.

The problem is you'll need one rated for at least 1500 psi for the front circuit and that puts you into the expensive or more expensive high pressure stuff.

 

[macleanflood]

Check out Mico lock .

Those look fantastic...but my cost goes from $30 and shipping plus bulkhead fittings and some small chunks of line to $400 to $2500.

Ouch...but nice!

Oh and the control panels they have are HUGE!

-Mac

 

[macleanflood]

If I was doing it, I would rig up cable actuated stainless ball valves in both lines out of the master.

Any vendor recommendations?

-Mac

 

[Moglocker]

I want more parking brakes! Too many times I've been out winching vehicles and the rear drum brakes just don't hold the Jeep. Thinking about adding this on the driver's side kick panel just under the dash. I'd need a couple of brake lines to the proportioning/shuttle valve and maybe a couple 1/8" bulkhead fittings. (Any suggestions for those?) Push hard on the brake petal and engage this valve...

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...l-Hydraulic-Parking-Brake-Line-Lock,1970.html


Example of sliding...what good is a remote winch controller if you have to sit in the cab holding the brake?

-Mac

Did you leave the jeep running during this pull?

 

[Moglocker]

Did you leave the jeep running during this pull?

And it looks like the line lock is the ticket!

 

[mrblaine]

Any vendor recommendations?

-Mac

Not really. All I know is a lot of competition rock crawlers used them on each tire in the back as cutting brakes and parking brakes.

 

[Tob]

I want more parking brakes! Too many times I've been out winching vehicles and the rear drum brakes just don't hold the Jeep. Thinking about adding this on the driver's side kick panel just under the dash. I'd need a couple of brake lines to the proportioning/shuttle valve and maybe a couple 1/8" bulkhead fittings. (Any suggestions for those?) Push hard on the brake petal and engage this valve...

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...l-Hydraulic-Parking-Brake-Line-Lock,1970.html


Example of sliding...what good is a remote winch controller if you have to sit in the cab holding the brake?

-Mac

Interested, but for other concerns. I always hate having to park the Jeep on an incline or mid-obstacle while wheeling. I don’t trust the parking brake’s holding power, especially on just two wheels. I always shut off the engine and leave 1st gear engaged as well, but it still doesn’t grant me a warm and fuzzy feeling. I can’t imagine being on something like Black Bear pass and having to trust those two in a very life-critical scenario (cue that video of the JK rolling down the mountainside at Black Bear). A line lock seems like a good solution to hold some meaty brake pressure on all four corners. Following!

 

[mrblaine]

A line lock seems like a good solution to hold some meaty brake pressure on all four corners. Following!

As long as you implicitly understand that a tiny leak can lead to catastrophic failure, you're golden.

 

[mrblaine]

Check out Mico lock . View attachment 563914 They have been around along time with a great track record. Our power company was using this on winch truck applications in the late 70's.

If someone could read the operating instructions on the new ones of those, that would be very neato. One of the rigs that drove back to camp with fully smoked rear brakes had one of those on each rear caliper and couldn't get it to release due to the initial pressure being way too high when he set it. But like you, was also around them long ago. I drove a logging rig in the oil field that had one on it.

 

[macleanflood]

Looks like the Mico setup for dual...front/rear is about $850.

https://zips.com/parts-detail/mico-dual-cable-brake-lock-02-640-169

I was hoping for a under $50 solution.

I really want to throw a $36 valve on the front calipers and be fine. I'd obviously put it after the proportioning valve and use the parking brake as well.

But like @mrblaine said...and I've done plenty of times...I break shit.

And like @Tob says...extra peace of mind. This isn't in lieu of a parking brake...this is supplemental, a secondary or tertiary system.

Ideally you'd have three valves...front calipers and one for each rear for cutting brakes as well as a parking brake. But I believe I've seen several posts about how the Dana 35/44 would grenade under the load. Love to be wrong about that.

-Mac

 

[Tob]

As long as you implicitly understand that a tiny leak can lead to catastrophic failure, you're golden.

Understood. I’d be using at least the parking brake and maybe drivetrain too as redundancies in those high stakes situations.

I’m with Mac though, I don’t think I would drop $850 for such a system.

 

[Apparition]

know nothing about this one but it’s more cost effective.

https://lowrangeoffroad.com/push-button-line-lock.html

 

[macleanflood]

know nothing about this one but it’s more cost effective.

https://lowrangeoffroad.com/push-button-line-lock.html

Seems both this one and the Speedway I started with look identical.

Any issue with stepping 3/16" brake lines to 1/8" to pass through this valve and then back to 3/16"?

Wouldn't that be a detrimental restriction?

-Mac

P.S. Did you read the reviews?

 

[Zorba]

How about a 2X4 between the front of the seat and the brake pedal?