Motor Mount Lift

Hi all,

I am about to start installing my motor mount lift tomorrow night. I was wondering if anyone has any tips that may help the pain? Thanks!

The 2 most important things

Remove the fan shroud.

Never put your hands in a place where they can be crushed.

Not as important but still good to know.

Double check the hoseclamps after. My top hose had a leak on the backside. Almost tore out the water pump. Thinking it was leaking
 
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I just did mine Sunday. Like mentioned, remove the fan shroud bolts and let the shroud sit on the fan. Do one side at a time, but loosen the bolts on the opposite side as much as you can. Having the opposite side loosened makes it much easier to line up the side you're working on. Also, don't tighten the bolts on the side you do first before getting the other side in, just loosely snug them up. Once you get everything in, and the weight of the engine back on the mounts, tighten everything then.

** Don't forget to loosen or remove the four transmission mount nuts before lifting the engine, and also don't forget to tighten them back up.
 
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I’ve been asking around on the forum and I haven’t heard anyone say that, reviews on the lift I bought said it was tight but fit. But of corse i think it’s a good idea to keep looking around first, maybe call my local four wheel drive shop might possible know about the specs


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I’ve been asking around on the forum and I haven’t heard anyone say that, reviews on the lift I bought said it was tight but fit. But of corse i think it’s a good idea to keep looking around first, maybe call my local four wheel drive shop might possible know about the specs


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I am not saying that it won't work. I would just look at everything that might be a concern.
Will the engine intake hit the hood?
What effect will it have on your shifter. Both regular and transfer case.
Driveline angles.

These are just the things that go through my mind.
When you buy a body lift they give you brackets to correct the shifter. You dont use them if you install a MML. Not sure if they are required for a MML with no body lift.
 
I am not saying that it won't work. I would just look at everything that might be a concern.
Will the engine intake hit the hood?
What effect will it have on your shifter. Both regular and transfer case.
Driveline angles.

These are just the things that go through my mind.
When you buy a body lift they give you brackets to correct the shifter. You dont use them if you install a MML. Not sure if they are required for a MML with no body lift.

No I understand your concern, I hold the same concerns to be honest. I’ll wait ,do more research, until I am positive with it and until I get the sign to get started. The kit I ordered is just the clocks and hardware. Didn’t want to buy the whole brown dog replacement ones as my currents bushings are good


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I’ve been asking around on the forum and I haven’t heard anyone say that, reviews on the lift I bought said it was tight but fit. But of corse i think it’s a good idea to keep looking around first, maybe call my local four wheel drive shop might possible know about the specs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a 05 auto and recently installed Brown Dog 1'" MML without a body lift. I haven't had any problems at all other than slight vibration in gear at idle from the mount. As mentioned previously unbolt the fan shroud and transmission mount before starting.

Without a BL, you will need to relocate the fan shroud 1" higher on the radiator. This will require notching the shroud slightly around the upper radiator hose (I used a Dremel plastic cutoff wheel). Next, you have to drill new mounting holes in either the fan shroud or radiator. I chose the radiator as it appeared safe, easier, and cleaner once complete. I found the easiest way was using a self-tapping screw and 90* DeWalt drill driver attachment. After running the self-tapping screw in and out a couple of times, the stock fan shroud mount screws fit perfectly.
 
I have a 05 auto and recently installed Brown Dog 1'" MML without a body lift. I haven't had any problems at all other than slight vibration in gear at idle from the mount. As mentioned previously unbolt the fan shroud and transmission mount before starting.

Without a BL, you will need to relocate the fan shroud 1" higher on the radiator. This will require notching the shroud slightly around the upper radiator hose (I used a Dremel plastic cutoff wheel). Next, you have to drill new mounting holes in either the fan shroud or radiator. I chose the radiator as it appeared safe, easier, and cleaner once complete. I found the easiest way was using a self-tapping screw and 90* DeWalt drill driver attachment. After running the self-tapping screw in and out a couple of times, the stock fan shroud mount screws fit perfectly.
There you have it.... it has been done with no problems.
 
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I just did mine Sunday. Like mentioned, remove the fan shroud bolts and let the shroud sit on the fan. Do one side at a time, but loosen the bolts on the opposite side as much as you can. Having the opposite side loosened makes it much easier to line up the side you're working on. Also, don't tighten the bolts on the side you do first before getting the other side in, just loosely snug them up. Once you get everything in, and the weight of the engine back on the mounts, tighten everything then.

** Don't forget to loosen or remove the four transmission mount nuts before lifting the engine, and also don't forget to tighten them back up.


So you were able to lift the motor with one side completely out and the other loosened?
 
Is it better to do the body lift before the motor mount lift, to give the transmission bit more room to move?
 
I only used a floor jack and piece of wood at the front of the transmission to raise the engine. I swapped out the driver's side mount first an did not have to loosen the passenger side. It was a much easier process than I thought it would be. About 3 hours start to finish, including removing TC drop and remounting fan shroud.
 
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