Mot's 2005 "X" Rocky Mountain Edition OEM+ Build
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OP
Since I replaced the fuel pump in July, it has been non-eventful for my 2005 RME. The TJ mostly sits in the back of the garage during Winter to stay off the salty roads. It has been mild thus far, so I have been able to drive it a bit here and there when there isn't salt on the roads.
Today, at ~108k on the odometer, I finally crawled under the TJ and completed some fluid maintenance I have been wanting to do since I bought the Jeep in early 2018. Per the Carfax records, the Jeep supposedly had the typical dealer 15k, 30k, 45k, 60k etc. maintenance done, but I have no idea what fluids were used or when these fluids were actually last replaced. Feels good to get these two simple things out of the way.
NSG370 6 speed
I used Slippery Pete's gallon fluid pump for filling both fluids. Worked like a champ.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DTS8N7P/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Today, at ~108k on the odometer, I finally crawled under the TJ and completed some fluid maintenance I have been wanting to do since I bought the Jeep in early 2018. Per the Carfax records, the Jeep supposedly had the typical dealer 15k, 30k, 45k, 60k etc. maintenance done, but I have no idea what fluids were used or when these fluids were actually last replaced. Feels good to get these two simple things out of the way.
NSG370 6 speed
- Redline MTL (takes ~1.6 qts)
- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002INJ69I/?tag=wranglerorg-20
- 14mm hex fill plug - remove first to make sure you can add more fluid.
- 17mm hex drain plug - lots of little shavings.
- Not sure if the fluid was original or not, but it was dark and dirty as shown.
- Torque both plugs to 20 ft/lbs. Do not over tighten.
- Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF (takes ~1.1 qts)
- This is fluid I already had on hand. I hear any ATF+3 or ATF+4 will work fine.
- 10 mm hex fill plug - remove first to make sure you can add more fluid.
- 10 mm hex drain plug
- Fluid was fairly dirty, but not milky (not shown).
- Torque both plugs to 15 ft/lbs. Do not over tighten.
I used Slippery Pete's gallon fluid pump for filling both fluids. Worked like a champ.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DTS8N7P/?tag=wranglerorg-20
OP
Nice patterns of gunk and metal
. Was fun trying to clean the plug. I used a mini magnetic screwdriver to scoop the stubborn metal out.
OP
After completing the manual trans and transfer case fluid changes, I decided to go ahead and knock out the Dana 30 and Dana 44 differential gear oil changes. Like the other oils, I really didn't know when the last time they were changed or what oil was used. When I did some quick homework, I found I could do both axles for about $30 and another evening in the garage. Sounds like a win-win to me! Glad to have this done.
Capacities
Dana 30 (front) - 1.3 qts
Dana 44 (rear) - 2.0 qts
Notes
Dana 30 - 3.73 - after I cracked it open
Capacities
Dana 30 (front) - 1.3 qts
Dana 44 (rear) - 2.0 qts
Notes
- Fill plugs on both diffs are 1/4" drive. Make sure you can get the plug out before you crack the diff open.
- Diff covers are held on by 10 bolts each. All are 13mm.
- Since I don't tow, live in a somewhat cooler climate at times, and take lots of short trips, I decided a 75W-90 would be best for me. At $6.97\qt, the Super Tech 75W-90 full synthetic sold by Walmart fit the bill perfectly. This is a GL5 compliant full synthetic gear oil and does have a friction modifier added, if anybody reading this is wondering. If you don't need it, it still won't hurt anything.
- Permatex Ultra Black - Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker is what is recommended if you don't have your own reusable or other gasket. A 6$ tube (3.35 oz) made gaskets for both diffs.
- For both diffs, I removed all bolts but the top one and then cracked it open with a small prybar and some light taps of a hammer. After the fluid drained into a pan and stopped dripping, I removed the top bolt and removed the diff cover.
- I cleaned the mating surfaces on the diffs and on the diff covers diligently with a scraper and steel wool.
- I used almost a can of parts cleaner to clean the diffs out. I used rags to soak up whatever doesn't drain out on its own.
- The diff covers had a bit of surface rust and I had some paint on hand that I could use, so I went ahead cleaned, degreased, sanded, and prepped them while they were off. I painted with high temp rust protectant black primer, then followed up with a couple coats of fast drying Krylon satin black for a nice durable finish. The Kylon has worked great and held up well on my stock bumpers.
- Used Slippery Pete's quart fluid pump to fill the diffs. They fit the Super Tech bottle perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CX4XKFH/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Dana 30 - 3.73 - after I cracked it open
OP
While I was on a roll changing all the other fluids, I went ahead and did a mild flush and fill on the cooling system using Zerex G05. I used the concentrated Zerex G05 and diluted as necessary with RO water. Mixing yourself can typically save about 50%, especially if you have access to pure water (DI, RO, distilled etc.)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033QNZZ0/?tag=wranglerorg-20
The drained coolant looked pristine, but it had likely been in there for several years. For the last 10 years, this TJ has only seen an average about 3,000 miles\yr, and I've had it for almost 2 years myself during this time. In another year or two, I'll I plan to overhaul the entire cooling system (new water pump, radiator/cap, thermostat, more aggressive reverse flush, new acc belt etc.). For now, the fluid change keep will me current and should correct any acidity issues I have going on. I'm fairly certain it hadn't been changed in 5 years, which is what the G05 HOAT calls for as a maximum lifetime (and also in our TJ FSM if I recall correctly). Better safe than sorry.
HOAT = Hybrid Organic Acid Technology
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033QNZZ0/?tag=wranglerorg-20
The drained coolant looked pristine, but it had likely been in there for several years. For the last 10 years, this TJ has only seen an average about 3,000 miles\yr, and I've had it for almost 2 years myself during this time. In another year or two, I'll I plan to overhaul the entire cooling system (new water pump, radiator/cap, thermostat, more aggressive reverse flush, new acc belt etc.). For now, the fluid change keep will me current and should correct any acidity issues I have going on. I'm fairly certain it hadn't been changed in 5 years, which is what the G05 HOAT calls for as a maximum lifetime (and also in our TJ FSM if I recall correctly). Better safe than sorry.
HOAT = Hybrid Organic Acid Technology
- "Chemistry combines the best of conventional and organic acid-based chemistry to provide the ultimate protection against rust and corrosion. ZEREX G-05 antifreeze/coolant uses the highest quality virgin ethylene glycol for freeze and boilover protection and a hybrid organic acid corrosion inhibitor package to protect your engines from liner pitting and corrosion."
- "Provides protection for 5 years / 150,000 miles in light duty applications and 3 years / 300,000 miles in heavy duty applications."
OP
Rear Main Seal Replacement and New Oil Pan
With the other straightforward maintenance out of the way, it was time for something a bit more challenging. The RMS and installing a new oil pan seemed to fit the bill. Disconnecting and lowering the exhaust from the manifold (precats on my 2005), dropping the oil pan, tediously changing the RMS, and then hooking everything back up was indeed a PITA. Just like everyone says, this is a "Next time I will pay someone else" type of job.
I was able to do almost everything with this job solo, except I needed my teenage son's help with bolting up the precats to the exhaust manifold at the end. Dropping the exhaust it was easy by myself, but raising and reconnecting the fasteners was not so easy. I used a tow strap to hoist and hold the exhaust up close to the manifold so we could get the flanges lined up,washers on, and the nuts started.
Why?
1) My RMS leak used to be a only a couple drops per month when I first noticed it. It started to puddle a bit more this Fall after driven, especially when it was colder in the garage and sat overnight after driving. The couple drops had become 5-10, then sometimes even 15-20 the next day after a drive the day before.
As you see many suggest, I am going to run only conventional 10w-30 from here on out after the RMS has been changed, and without any high mileage additives. At first I was running full synthetic oil with high mileage additives, then I switched to conventional oil, but with the high mileage additives. From here on out, I will only use regular cheap dino oil with the new RMS and oil pan gasket in place. Call me superstitious or whatever, but during my RMS research I read about many folks changing to conventional oil to help combat their leaks.
2) One of the more annoying things about my TJ has become the oil pan. While the the Jeep was mostly rust free and solid in the important ways when I purchased it, after I got it home and did closer inspection, I learned to know my original Mopar oil pan was the single most rust infested item on my Jeep. I didn't pay that much attention to it when I bought it. I thought it was just some surface rust on the pan with some grease and dirt built up. I was too busy looking at the frame, tub , body mounts, shock mounts etc. When I degreased the pan to take a closer look, it actually had some good layers of metal that needed to come off under all the grease and gunk. I gingerly pealed off the corroded layers, wire brushed and then painted with high temp black, until I had time to replace it. So much metal had come off, I was a little concerned about integrity. I could see the rust was starting to pop in some other spots this year as well. It is nice to finally have the rusty one gone with a new gasket.
Parts etc.
How?
See the following how-to here from this site. I followed this in general. I also did plenty of web research, watched several youtube vids, and referenced the pics from fourwheeler.com network below.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-replacement-4-0.826/
https://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/1803-how-to-replace-a-jeep-4-0l-rear-main-seal/
Obligatory 4.0L pics
With the other straightforward maintenance out of the way, it was time for something a bit more challenging. The RMS and installing a new oil pan seemed to fit the bill. Disconnecting and lowering the exhaust from the manifold (precats on my 2005), dropping the oil pan, tediously changing the RMS, and then hooking everything back up was indeed a PITA. Just like everyone says, this is a "Next time I will pay someone else" type of job.
I was able to do almost everything with this job solo, except I needed my teenage son's help with bolting up the precats to the exhaust manifold at the end. Dropping the exhaust it was easy by myself, but raising and reconnecting the fasteners was not so easy. I used a tow strap to hoist and hold the exhaust up close to the manifold so we could get the flanges lined up,washers on, and the nuts started.
Why?
1) My RMS leak used to be a only a couple drops per month when I first noticed it. It started to puddle a bit more this Fall after driven, especially when it was colder in the garage and sat overnight after driving. The couple drops had become 5-10, then sometimes even 15-20 the next day after a drive the day before.
As you see many suggest, I am going to run only conventional 10w-30 from here on out after the RMS has been changed, and without any high mileage additives. At first I was running full synthetic oil with high mileage additives, then I switched to conventional oil, but with the high mileage additives. From here on out, I will only use regular cheap dino oil with the new RMS and oil pan gasket in place. Call me superstitious or whatever, but during my RMS research I read about many folks changing to conventional oil to help combat their leaks.
2) One of the more annoying things about my TJ has become the oil pan. While the the Jeep was mostly rust free and solid in the important ways when I purchased it, after I got it home and did closer inspection, I learned to know my original Mopar oil pan was the single most rust infested item on my Jeep. I didn't pay that much attention to it when I bought it. I thought it was just some surface rust on the pan with some grease and dirt built up. I was too busy looking at the frame, tub , body mounts, shock mounts etc. When I degreased the pan to take a closer look, it actually had some good layers of metal that needed to come off under all the grease and gunk. I gingerly pealed off the corroded layers, wire brushed and then painted with high temp black, until I had time to replace it. So much metal had come off, I was a little concerned about integrity. I could see the rust was starting to pop in some other spots this year as well. It is nice to finally have the rusty one gone with a new gasket.
Parts etc.
- New Oil Pan - Spectra Premium Part No. CRP06C. Made in Canada, not China? Why not Mopar? Well, I have read and have first hand experience they rust easily, LOL. This one was cheaper, about the same weight, and fit perfectly.
- Felpro Oil Pan Gasket Set Part No. OS 34308 R (mine was blue, nice and thick and had 4 Fel-Pro Oil Pan Snap-Ups ).
- Felpro Rear Main Bearing Seal Set Part No. BS 40183 (2000-2006 models) - the RMS for the older TJ models (1997-1999) have the "tabs", the newer ones I used do not.
- Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker (1.69 oz.) Part No. 51813 - required when assembling the RMS bearing halves.
- Permatex High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket (3 oz.) Part No. 81160 - used in the front, rear, and corners of the oil pan (small beads laid down under the Felpro gasket, since the liquid gasket can squeeze into the crevices in the troublesome tricky spots).
- 6 QT 10w-30 motor oil + oil filter
How?
See the following how-to here from this site. I followed this in general. I also did plenty of web research, watched several youtube vids, and referenced the pics from fourwheeler.com network below.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-replacement-4-0.826/
https://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/1803-how-to-replace-a-jeep-4-0l-rear-main-seal/
Obligatory 4.0L pics
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
OP
Thanks, I thought it was a quality product, and easy to work with too like you said. How tough was the valve cover gasket job? Any hidden tricks? I've never removed one on a 4.0. They often seem easy until you find all the things that need to be moved out of the way.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
OP
OP
Been away for a while, thanks to all the joy 2020 brought us. Doing OK here, but others in the family were not so lucky.
On a good note, I still have the Silver RME TJ and she has been running great (knocks on wood). Nothing has been needed or done since I did the RMS in Jan 2020. Just driving with no pockets being emptied has been a good thing for a while! That was my plan after doing all the original work and I will try to stick to this plan even though I get the bug to mod once in a while (SYE, front' bumper, new arms etc.) . I rarely drive in Winter to keep her out of the salt, but I have the bottom all fluid filmed up just in case! My son and I like to take her snow driving a good storm once in a while, but this year hasn't cooperated thus far.
That said, while not spending $ on my TJ, the car bug hit again during the pandemic In April/May when we had a big used car surplus, many nice cars coming off lease with no where to go, I picked the wife up a 2016 535i X-Drive with 17k miles for 24k USD (sticker price was 68k). Pristine in and out, even had a 8 month warranty left. An I-6 with a turbo and AWD, I couldn't say no! It's the last of the 5 series F10 generation with all the fixes and model updates, including electronic wastegate instead pneumatic wastegate for the N55 engine. The N55 is known to be more reliable than the previous generations of the I6 turbo engine (N54). After flash tuning (MHD) and a transmission flash with XHP (rev matching, super fast shifts, different sport modes, launch control etc.), it has made a fun, luxurious, yet economical and safe ride for us. I averaged 30mpg on a trip last weekend in eco mode.
Hope everyone here is doing well, despite the curveball we've been thrown lately!
P.S. what is @Chris driving now? LOL
On a good note, I still have the Silver RME TJ and she has been running great (knocks on wood). Nothing has been needed or done since I did the RMS in Jan 2020. Just driving with no pockets being emptied has been a good thing for a while! That was my plan after doing all the original work and I will try to stick to this plan even though I get the bug to mod once in a while (SYE, front' bumper, new arms etc.) . I rarely drive in Winter to keep her out of the salt, but I have the bottom all fluid filmed up just in case! My son and I like to take her snow driving a good storm once in a while, but this year hasn't cooperated thus far.
That said, while not spending $ on my TJ, the car bug hit again during the pandemic
In April/May when we had a big used car surplus, many nice cars coming off lease with no where to go, I picked the wife up a 2016 535i X-Drive with 17k miles for 24k USD (sticker price was 68k). Pristine in and out, even had a 8 month warranty left. An I-6 with a turbo and AWD, I couldn't say no! It's the last of the 5 series F10 generation with all the fixes and model updates, including electronic wastegate instead pneumatic wastegate for the N55 engine. The N55 is known to be more reliable than the previous generations of the I6 turbo engine (N54). After flash tuning (MHD) and a transmission flash with XHP (rev matching, super fast shifts, different sport modes, launch control etc.), it has made a fun, luxurious, yet economical and safe ride for us. I averaged 30mpg on a trip last weekend in eco mode.Hope everyone here is doing well, despite the curveball we've been thrown lately!
P.S. what is @Chris driving now? LOL
OP
Haha, thanks. It's been fun catching up on the threads I missed and seeing what is new in the TJ World.Oh wow, you’re still alive
I guess in this current climate that’s a serious thing to worry about though, huh?
Glad to know you’re still alive and kicking it, and enjoying the TJ too!
In summary, a lot of people spent a lot more money on their TJs, especially with everything being shut down