MountaineerTom's 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Wow, that's ugly. Thanks for the description and pictures. I've been putting off doing mine, but I'll flag this post to look at again when I'm ready.

Yeah, it sucked. Hopefully the Rock Jock JJ goes in easier. I think I'll have to remove the spring though to get a good angle on it with a hammer.
 
Got this thing done. Didn’t pull a spring but used my ball joint press and a 1/2” ratchet to turn it, making sure it stayed straight every 2 or 3 cranks. I just couldn’t get enough of a swing with my mini sledge on the installation tool that comes with the kit.

Now to schedule some time when my friend can come over and weld the passengers side in and a couple mini skids.

0A8C46AB-8DAF-4EB9-9C6B-622D2E698A8B.jpeg


C21A1B33-ADBB-4C39-AE4A-04CC1B66E656.jpeg


C2E639BD-006C-4A6D-BE34-F1ECDFC74E51.jpeg


A494C034-C19D-4295-8014-A5565A9C7D10.jpeg
 
Got my buddy to weld in the Rock Jock passengers side mount and JKS mini skids. Plug welded three holes on the backside of the bracket. Some of my pics turned out kind of blurry. Now I need to clean up and paint my whole axle. 😐

JJ 1.JPG


JJ 2.JPG


JJ 3.JPG


JJ 4.JPG


Mini skid 1.JPG


mini skid 2.JPG


mini skid 3.JPG
 
Otherwise the weld looks good but the last picture on the CA skids seem to have a lot to be desired. Maybe a pic angle and shadow but there looks to be a big gap that is unfilled.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
Otherwise the weld looks good but the last picture on the CA skids seem to have a lot to be desired. Maybe a pic angle and shadow but there looks to be a big gap that is unfilled.

It must be the lighting or wet paint because there are no gaps, except the top corners.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
After some time off work traveling visiting family and getting meet our newest grand daughter 😍, I worked on it a little while today. Adjusted the front pinion and driveshaft to the same angle, adjusted and reconnected the passengers side upper arm, checked that rear pinion and transfer case output were the same angles. Took it for a test drive. Had some small vibes on quick takeoffs and some around 40-50 mph under power. Front pinion and drive shaft at at 7.7°. Rear pinion and transfer output are at 4.7°. I can’t remember what the rear driveshaft was.

Where should I go next? Pull the Front drive shaft to see if they are coming from there or just go ahead and pull the transfer case and install the SYE, get a new driveshaft, set the rear angles and go from there?
 
Last edited:
After some time off work traveling visiting family and getting meet our newest grand daughter 😍, I worked on it a little while today. Adjusted the front pinion and driveshaft to the same angle, adjusted and reconnected the passengers side upper arm, checked that rear pinion and transfer case output were the same angles. Took it for a test drive. Had some small vibes on quick takeoffs and some around 40-50 mph under power. Front pinion and drive shaft at at 7.7°. Rear pinion and transfer output are at 4.7°. I can’t remember what the rear driveshaft was.

Where should I go next? Pull the Front drive shaft to see if they are coming from there or just go ahead and pull the transfer case and install the SYE, get a new driveshaft, set the rear angles and go from there?

I had vibs at 55+ and I suspected the front shaft, so I pulled it and the vibs were gone. Start with easiest process of elimination I think.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
After some time off work traveling visiting family and getting meet our newest grand daughter 😍, I worked on it a little while today. Adjusted the front pinion and driveshaft to the same angle, adjusted and reconnected the passengers side upper arm, checked that rear pinion and transfer case output were the same angles. Took it for a test drive. Had some small vibes on quick takeoffs and some around 40-50 mph under power. Front pinion and drive shaft at at 7.7°. Rear pinion and transfer output are at 4.7°. I can’t remember what the rear driveshaft was.

Where should I go next? Pull the Front drive shaft to see if they are coming from there or just go ahead and pull the transfer case and install the SYE, get a new driveshaft, set the rear angles and go from there?

I had vibs at 55+ and I suspected the front shaft, so I pulled it and the vibs were gone. Start with easiest process of elimination I think.

If the front pinion and shaft are at 7.7*, 0* difference, and you remove the front shaft and the vibes go away, you’re front shaft has an issue, and the most likely culprit is shaft balance. I rebuilt mine, adjusted angles, tried everything except re-balance. Bought a new Woody and G2G.

Besides, that front shaft should be set as low as possible, meaning right before it binds at full droop. That way you can get as much caster back as possible.

What’s your caster?
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
If the front pinion and shaft are at 7.7*, 0* difference, and you remove the front shaft and the vibes go away, you’re front shaft has an issue, and the most likely culprit is shaft balance. I rebuilt mine, adjusted angles, tried everything except re-balance. Bought a new Woody and G2G.

Besides, that front shaft should be set as low as possible, meaning right before it binds at full droop. That way you can get as much caster back as possible.

What’s your caster?

I’m not sure. Not even sure how to measure that. Got any tips?

I set all control arms to the same length as each stock one that came out, then adjusted the uppers to get the pinions and driveshafts dialed in. Each lower should be the same as stock. Can’t remember what that is off the top of my head, but I have it written down.

The Jeep handles great and has good return to center after a turn, if that matters.
 
I’m not sure. Not even sure how to measure that. Got any tips?

I set all control arms to the same length as each stock one that came out, then adjusted the uppers to get the pinions and driveshafts dialed in. Each lower should be the same as stock. Can’t remember what that is off the top of my head, but I have it written down.

The Jeep handles great and has good return to center after a turn, if that matters.

I’ll go take a pic of where you place your angle finder to measure caster. It can be good enough, but it can sometimes be better. Stock caster is 7*. As we lift it gets less. Bigger tires can handle less, but best will be in the 6-7* range. The inner C’s are clocked from the factory, so they should be 0.5* different. If they’re not, then your arms are very likely binding.

It’s very common with DA’s (even when it’s driving fine). If you release the passenger side upper on the axle end and the hole moves, they were binding. To fix it just adjust that arm to the new length and it should be good to go.

I’ll be back with a pic.
 
After some time off work traveling visiting family and getting meet our newest grand daughter 😍

Congrats, how many is that? Now make sure those parents are getting some sleep. I haven't slept well in nearly three years now, mostly due to my shadow whom you met.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
Congrats, how many is that? Now make sure those parents are getting some sleep. I haven't slept well in nearly three years now, mostly due to my shadow whom you met.

What’s sleep? 🤣 We’ve got 5. I’m convinced it’s kids that keep you young AND make you old. 🤪

Congrats Tom on your newest granddaughter! What a blessing. Prayers for her and her parents.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlueC
After some time off work traveling visiting family and getting meet our newest grand daughter 😍, I worked on it a little while today. Adjusted the front pinion and driveshaft to the same angle, adjusted and reconnected the passengers side upper arm, checked that rear pinion and transfer case output were the same angles. Took it for a test drive. Had some small vibes on quick takeoffs and some around 40-50 mph under power. Front pinion and drive shaft at at 7.7°. Rear pinion and transfer output are at 4.7°. I can’t remember what the rear driveshaft was.

Where should I go next? Pull the Front drive shaft to see if they are coming from there or just go ahead and pull the transfer case and install the SYE, get a new driveshaft, set the rear angles and go from there?

Clarification: are you saying that vibes come on at 40-50mph and then go away at higher speeds?
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
I’ll go take a pic of where you place your angle finder to measure caster. It can be good enough, but it can sometimes be better. Stock caster is 7*. As we lift it gets less. Bigger tires can handle less, but best will be in the 6-7* range. The inner C’s are clocked from the factory, so they should be 0.5* different. If they’re not, then your arms are very likely binding.

It’s very common with DA’s (even when it’s driving fine). If you release the passenger side upper on the axle end and the hole moves, they were binding. To fix it just adjust that arm to the new length and it should be good to go.

I’ll be back with a pic.

Here is a pic of where I measured caster. The thin metal bar fits next to the flat at the lower ball joint. I have since moved my control arms to 6.7degree caster. I have vibrations starting at 65mph and progressively getting worse. I removed the driveshaft ant the differential and secured the front driveshaft to the frame/lower control arm. No vibration past 80 mph. Im going to install front selectable hubs. I have 4” lift, and Savvy tummy tuck.

8EE7DFAD-6368-407F-AD91-9B36BCD768F7.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
Here is a pic of where I measured caster. The thin metal bar fits next to the flat at the lower ball joint. I have since moved my control arms to 6.7degree caster. I have vibrations starting at 65mph and progressively getting worse. I removed the driveshaft ant the differential and secured the front driveshaft to the frame/lower control arm. No vibration past 80 mph. Im going to install front selectable hubs. I have 4” lift, and Savvy tummy tuck.

View attachment 401986

Thats very similar to the location I measure caster. I just find the flattest spot on the lower C just next to where you're flat bar is located and measure there. I'm also at 6.7* and 6.2* caster respectively, since the C's are clocked about 0.5* from the factory.

You might try re-balancing the front shaft or buying a TW front shaft before going all in on hubs (unless you've already done this). I was in the exact same boat you are in for 3 years with vibes coming on around 65mph due to the front shaft. I re-built the front shaft and no change. I thought hubs were the only way. When I found some play in the front splines I sprung for a TW shaft and upon install I was surprised to discover that I didn't get vibes till 80mph. The reason is the shaft is turning soo fast that it can't be balanced for those speeds.The TW shaft was just balanced better than the factory shaft. TW has a driveshaft rpm calculator, and they warn that any shaft spinning faster than 3000rpm is going too fast to balance perfectly. This is why re-gearing a DD should involve realization of a tradeoff between best gearing ratio and possible vibes due to driveshaft rpm.

Nice tires. I'm running KM3's right now too.
 
I have a front drive shaft from a shop in Orange County. It was installed by the PO. It looks almost new. So I don’t think it will fix the vibration. So I’m going to have @mrblaine install the Yukon hubs, flip the tie rod and move the sway bar connectors. I have the BBK, so mods need to be done to fit the hubs.
I like the tires, but the PO didn’t rotate them so the ones that were on the front at cupped and are noisy. I’m moved them to the back and are rotating them side to side every 500 miles to hopefully smooth them out.