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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
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MountaineerTom's 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
- Thread starter MountaineerTom
- Start date
I had to lower my TCase to get to it too. I re-installed it with it lower too, then lifted it all up. I just got it gudentite.
Same here. It was much easier with it lowered.
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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Advance Adapters SYE installed. Honestly the hardest step was getting that rear dust shield removed on the original tail piece. 
Everything looked good inside. One of @hosejockey61 's videos on rebuilding the 231 showed where the chain had rubbed on the rear case housing, so I checked closely for that and didn't see any marks. Great video for a reference, thank you! The filter had minimal stuff on it and the magnet had the usual sludge that you'd find like in a transmission pan magnet. Got everything cleaned up, RTV'd and assembled. Checked all the drive modes and everything checked good. I did slightly mess up the installing RTV step. I used Permatex The Right Stuff. I got ahead of myself and installed it on the case, installed the rear case half and bolts and snugged them down and went straight to torquing them instead of letting it set for an hour just snugged up and THEN torquing them. I didn't even realize it until I installed the new tail piece and then remembered to let it sit an hour after snugging the bolts and then torquing. Hopefully it doesn't bite me in the ass. I damn near forgot to put the magnet back in.
Got the case reinstalled back on the transmission and just snugged the nuts up on it. Tomorrow I'll go out re-do the nuts with some blue loctite and finish it all up and measure for a new driveshaft.
@Wildman , the obstruction wrench made all the difference in the world being able to get onto those top nuts. Thanks for mentioning that. I rarely use those and keep them in a drawer with other rarely used tools and had completely forgot about them. My dad bought me the set (along with some other Pittsburg wrench sets) from a Harbor Freight mail order catalog in 1987 when I graduated high school.
Everything looked good inside. One of @hosejockey61 's videos on rebuilding the 231 showed where the chain had rubbed on the rear case housing, so I checked closely for that and didn't see any marks. Great video for a reference, thank you! The filter had minimal stuff on it and the magnet had the usual sludge that you'd find like in a transmission pan magnet. Got everything cleaned up, RTV'd and assembled. Checked all the drive modes and everything checked good. I did slightly mess up the installing RTV step. I used Permatex The Right Stuff. I got ahead of myself and installed it on the case, installed the rear case half and bolts and snugged them down and went straight to torquing them instead of letting it set for an hour just snugged up and THEN torquing them. I didn't even realize it until I installed the new tail piece and then remembered to let it sit an hour after snugging the bolts and then torquing. Hopefully it doesn't bite me in the ass. I damn near forgot to put the magnet back in.
Got the case reinstalled back on the transmission and just snugged the nuts up on it. Tomorrow I'll go out re-do the nuts with some blue loctite and finish it all up and measure for a new driveshaft.
@Wildman , the obstruction wrench made all the difference in the world being able to get onto those top nuts. Thanks for mentioning that. I rarely use those and keep them in a drawer with other rarely used tools and had completely forgot about them. My dad bought me the set (along with some other Pittsburg wrench sets) from a Harbor Freight mail order catalog in 1987 when I graduated high school.
Advance Adapters SYE installed. Honestly the hardest step was getting that rear dust shield removed on the original tail piece.
Everything looked good inside. One of @hosejockey61 's videos on rebuilding the 231 showed where the chain had rubbed on the rear case housing, so I checked closely for that and didn't see any marks. Great video for a reference, thank you! The filter had minimal stuff on it and the magnet had the usual sludge that you'd find like in a transmission pan magnet. Got everything cleaned up, RTV'd and assembled. Checked all the drive modes and everything checked good. I did slightly mess up the installing RTV step. I used Permatex The Right Stuff. I got ahead of myself and installed it on the case, installed the rear case half and bolts and snugged them down and went straight to torquing them instead of letting it set for an hour just snugged up and THEN torquing them. I didn't even realize it until I installed the new tail piece and then remembered to let it sit an hour after snugging the bolts and then torquing. Hopefully it doesn't bite me in the ass. I damn near forgot to put the magnet back in.
Got the case reinstalled back on the transmission and just snugged the nuts up on it. Tomorrow I'll go out re-do the nuts with some blue loctite and finish it all up and measure for a new driveshaft.
@Wildman , the obstruction wrench made all the difference in the world being able to get onto those top nuts. Thanks for mentioning that. I rarely use those and keep them in a drawer with other rarely used tools and had completely forgot about them. My dad bought me the set (along with some other Pittsburg wrench sets) from a Harbor Freight mail order catalog in 1987 when I graduated high school.
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Nicely done!
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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Yes, very nicely done. Now you just need an Atlas Tom.
That would be nice, but I don't think that is in my future.
I need at least 33's and a regear before that.
Glad to be of some help. I use my wrench every now & then but like you I forget about it sometimes as I fight to get into a tight spot. They were part of my military tool box too. It was only the 9/16 & 5/8 wrench but it came in every general mechanic's tool box.
The master mechanic tool box had a complete set of them, but it was a larger tool box.
The master mechanic tool box had a complete set of them, but it was a larger tool box.
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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Took a few extra days to get here as they were waiting on non-greasable u-joints to come. John, from Tom Wood’s, called me to see if I wanted to wait for them or go with the greasable joints. I appreciate that a call was made to ask rather than just wait and me possibly wondering why it was taking longer to arrive. I didn’t mind waiting because I wasn’t going to be able to get to it until Friday anyway.
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Nice work! Tom woods is a good company too. I’ve always been impressed when I talk to them on the phone
Took a few extra days to get here as they were waiting on non-greasable u-joints to come. John, from Tom Wood’s, called me to see if I wanted to wait for them or go with the greasable joints. I appreciate that a call was made to ask rather than just wait and me possibly wondering why it was taking longer to arrive. I didn’t mind waiting because I wasn’t going to be able to get to it until Friday anyway.
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I had a similar issue in the past with them. In my case I needed the shaft for a wheeling trip so they sent it to me with greasable joints. About a month or so later I got a package in the mail from them which had non-greasable joints. I never asked to be sent those, so that was truly good customer service!
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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
New driveshaft installed. Jacked up the Jeep so the suspension was hanging, transfer case in neutral and the driveshaft turned easily by hand with no binding or contact anywhere. Test drive was a success; the take off shutter and 40-50 mph vibration I had was gone. Smooth as ever up to 75 mph. I wasn’t sure how tight the 5/16-24 bolts for the SYE yoke to deive shaft connection should be. Thanks to a few members here and Troy, at Tom Wood’s, it was confirmed that 20 ft lbs (like the front driveshaft) would be correct. Since my torque wrench won’t fit in there, nice and snug with a wrench is what it got.
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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Installed my Savvy Gas Tank Skid. Fixed the gas tank over flow issue while I was there. I haven’t had it puke fuel in a couple years but figure I’d fix it so I don’t have it any more in the future. Only had a couple gallons of gas, but I siphoned it all out and wiped the tank out. Wasn’t too bad, just a few specks of something black. All went back together well, primed the fuel system by turning the key on/off about 8 or 9 times and she started up on the first crank.
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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
@FarFire70 , I had ordered it back in mid January but just got around to installing it. I think it was right before all the talk of Savvy being sold.
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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I’m wondering if I got my tank all the way down into the Savvy skid. After installing it, the fuel line coming off the pump seemed to be kind of tight between the tank and the crossmember. I could move the wire harness on one end and see the other end move, but the fuel line seemed like it had no movement at all. Not even a little. I couldn’t see up in there very good. I feel like I shoved it down in there pretty hard.
Can anyone tell from this picture if that looks like it’s in far enough? When I look through the openings in the bottom corners of the skid, I can see the tank and it appears to be touching the bottom of the skid.
This is the line I’m talking about, on the top.
Can anyone tell from this picture if that looks like it’s in far enough? When I look through the openings in the bottom corners of the skid, I can see the tank and it appears to be touching the bottom of the skid.
This is the line I’m talking about, on the top.
You can look in the hole in the bottom center of the skid to see/feel if the tank is all the way down.