MountaineerTom's 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Got this finished up this afternoon. Pretty easy to do with the skid plate off. I cleaned up the minor rust between the skid and frame, sprayed some Rustoleum Rust Reformer on them, then some Rustoleum satin black. I used 2 washers per bolt to create a little space between them.

Smooth shifting!!

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Love your build. Curious why you swapped out the OME shocks for Rancho? I’m considering the OME kit so curious why the change? We’re you running the light or heavy springs?
 
Thank you.

I have the HD springs front and rear. The OME shocks were really harsh on rough roads and areas like pot holes, man hole covers, gaps where roads meet bridges, etc. On smooth roads, they handled well.
 
MountaineerTom said:
Thank you.

I have the HD springs front and rear. The OME shocks were really harsh on rough roads and areas like pot holes, man hole covers, gaps where roads meet bridges, etc. On smooth roads, they handled well.
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Thank! Was considering the OME kit and although I do a lot of highway driving with my TJ, we have a lot of potholes so it seems like a bad choice. If you had to do it again would you still go Rancho for the shocks?
 
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Photocycler said:
Thank! Was considering the OME kit and although I do a lot of highway driving with my TJ, we have a lot of potholes so it seems like a bad choice. If you had to do it again would you still go Rancho for the shocks?
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Most people here would agree it’s best to piece together your own kit, including using rancho shocks vs the OME nitros. You may read things around about how the OME are great, but that’s usually the previous generation of them.
 
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Photocycler said:
Thank! Was considering the OME kit and although I do a lot of highway driving with my TJ, we have a lot of potholes so it seems like a bad choice. If you had to do it again would you still go Rancho for the shocks?
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I’ve recently replaced the Rancho shocks with Skyjacker Black Max shocks. They are a little softer ride that the Ranchos.
 
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Just read your build thread right through, not sure why hadn't before. Brilliabt write up with lots of helpful detail. Cracking job! Thak you for putting so much time and effort in to document this.
 
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UKTJ said:
Just read your build thread right through, not sure why hadn't before. Brilliabt write up with lots of helpful detail. Cracking job! Thak you for putting so much time and effort in to document this.
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Thank you, it’s pretty simple and mild compared to a lot of others, but I‘m happy with it.
 
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I installed this Dead Pedal today.

It's listed for a JK but as others have posted before, it fits the TJ's. I installed it using just the two 10mm bolts that hold the post for the door limiting strap. There was room on the forward area to drill and install netserts and bolts or self tapping screws, but for now I don't feel they are needed. The front part rests right up against he inside wall of the jeep with no movement. As far as where it's located in relation to the brake pedal; by mounting it using the last two available holes, it's just slightly closer to the driver. I'm 5' 10" and it is comfortable for me.

I did add a strip of foam backing to keep it from rubbing metal right onto the inner wall.

Thanks @DaveC for the info.

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Clearanced the opening of my Smittybilt raised winch plate for the TRE fairlead then repainted the plate and reinstalled everything with the new rope and Safety Thimble II.

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A couple weight comparison pictures. TRE rope, safety thimble II and Hawes fairlead VS WARN steel cable and roller fairlead.

6.2 lbs Hard to see the decimal point.
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Replaced the Ignition Actuator today. Used a Dorman replacement from Amazon. Not hard to do, but took me a couple tries to get everything lined up just right. I started to replace the Ignition Switch as well, and have one on hand, but decided to install it just to test it and put it in my tool box along with another actuator so I'll have both in case one goes out while out and about someday.

I watched a few videos on YouTube on how to change these, so they were pretty helpful. One was on a KJ that was an automatic and had the brake shift interlock cable like my '06 has. I didn't have this particular problem, but the video pointed out that there is a tiny little metal piece under that actuator cover that could fall out if you're not careful.


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MountaineerTom said:
Replaced the Ignition Actuator today. Used a Dorman replacement from Amazon. Not hard to do, but took me a couple tries to get everything lined up just right. I started to replace the Ignition Switch as well, and have one on hand, but decided to install it just to test it and put it in my tool box along with another actuator so I'll have both in case one goes out while out and about someday.

I watched a few videos on YouTube on how to change these, so they were pretty helpful. One was on a KJ that was an automatic and had the brake shift interlock cable like my '06 has. I didn't have this particular problem, but the video pointed out that there is a tiny little metal piece under that actuator cover that could fall out if you're not careful.


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That's a crazy little part. I remember the day mine broke. I had no idea why it wouldn't start. We were trying to go wheel that day. It took a couple of hours to figure out the problem, folks here were very helpful, I got all the parts and more I didn't need and when I got in there with the T-10, it was the actuator. Still made it to wheel by noon. Glad you got yours fixed. Good job.
 
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JMT said:
That's a crazy little part. I remember the day mine broke. I had no idea why it wouldn't start. We were trying to go wheel that day. It took a couple of hours to figure out the problem, folks here were very helpful, I got all the parts and more I didn't need and when I got in there with the T-10, it was the actuator. Still made it to wheel by noon. Glad you got yours fixed. Good job.
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Thanks.

I went to drive it to work the other morning, turned the key and it just started to crank then stopped and nothing. All gauges, lights, radio and fuel pump priming was normal. No clicking or anything. I suspected it was that, but that night when I got home, I tested a few things. Battery voltage was good, swapped the starter relay with another one in the PDC with no change, disconnected the small wire on the starter and made a jumper with a female spade terminal hooked to the starter and touched it to the battery positive and the engine tried to crank. Checked that same wire I disconnected from the starter with a voltage meter and got nothing when turning the key. I had to wait until today to work on it due to my work schedule and appointments. As soon as I pulled the actuator form the ignition switch, the broken piece fell out. (y)
 
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MountaineerTom said:
Got the steering box skid installed.

An easy way to get the serrated nut to line up right the first time is to run a zip tie up through the hole and out of the opening in the corner and slide the nut down it.

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As you know I am battling with steering box skid issues at the moment. Maybe a dumb question, but once the nut goes down the zip tie how do you get a wrench in there to hold it while you tighten the bolt?
 
UKTJ said:
As you know I am battling with steering box skid issues at the moment. Maybe a dumb question, but once the nut goes down the zip tie how do you get a wrench in there to hold it while you tighten the bolt?
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I just used a large screwdriver to wedge the nut. Once you get it to bite, it will hold itself. It helps to use a battery or air powered impact gun to spin the bolt. Just make sure to put anti-seize on the bolt!
 
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UKTJ said:
As you know I am battling with steering box skid issues at the moment. Maybe a dumb question, but once the nut goes down the zip tie how do you get a wrench in there to hold it while you tighten the bolt?
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Irun said:
I just used a large screwdriver to wedge the nut. Once you get it to bite, it will hold itself. It helps to use a battery or air powered impact gun to spin the bolt. Just make sure to put anti-seize on the bolt!
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Yeah, like @Irun did it. It's a serrated nut and will hold itself once it's snugged down.
 
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