MountaineerTom's 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Added some foam/rubber insulation to the low pressure side from the condenser to the firewall to see if it helps make the A/C just a little cooler.
IMG_4487.JPG



Also replaced the Hayden 2771 Heavy Duty fan clutch (on the left) with the Hayden 2791 Severe Duty fan clutch. Not having engine cooling problems but trying it to see if it also helps with cooler A/C at slower speeds like in-town stop-and-go traffic and out on the trail. I also tried the air hammer-on-the-edge-of-the-nut trick for the first time when removing the one that was on there. Way easier than all the other ways I've tried.
IMG_4494.JPG


IMG_4495.JPG


IMG_4498.JPG


IMG_4496.JPG
 
Last edited:
Install some seals (foam weatherstrip tape) to seal between the radiator and the condenser. Also seal between condenser and the core support. Rubber like used for the inner fenders works good for this. Getting airflow at idle is important. A electric pusher fan does wonders, to test this before installing one run the A/c at idle then run a water hose through condenser and see if it cools better. If it does a fan would help. It makes a mess but easy way to diagnosis.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
Install some seals (foam weatherstrip tape) to seal between the radiator and the condenser. Also seal between condenser and the core support. Rubber like used for the inner fenders works good for this. Getting airflow at idle is important. A electric pusher fan does wonders, to test this before installing one run the A/c at idle then run a water hose through condenser and see if it cools better. If it does a fan would help. It makes a mess but easy way to diagnosis.

I have a rubber seal between the radiator and condenser, but nothing extra between the condenser and core support, except the seals that run down the side.
 
Added some foam/rubber insulation to the low pressure side from the condenser to the firewall to see if it helps make the A/C just a little cooler.
View attachment 342230


Also replaced the Hayden 2771 Heavy Duty fan clutch (on the left) with the Hayden 2791 Severe Duty fan clutch. Not having engine cooling problems but trying it to see if it also helps with cooler A/C as slower speeds like in-town traffic and out on the trail. I also tried the air hammer-on-the-edge-of-the-nut trick for the first time when removing the one that was on there. Way easier that all the other ways I've tried.
View attachment 342231

View attachment 342232

View attachment 342234

View attachment 342233
The air hammer trick for removing the fan clutch is by far my favorite method. It never lets me down or results in busted knuckles!
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
The air hammer trick for removing the fan clutch is by far my favorite method. It never lets me down or results in busted knuckles!

I was surprised. I meant to try it last time I had the clutch off a few years ago, but forgot about it until I fought with it and already had it off. :ROFLMAO:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Irun
Looks great! I just put that same fan clutch on my lj for idle Temps with ac maxed on these hot, humid days.

It has helped quit a bit with coolant temps.I definitely notice the increased fan noise on start up and when it's activated. It is cool to see how quickly the Temps drop with this severe duty clutch when it kicks on.

I had some minor belt squeal initially under hard acceleration when the clutch was engaged but haven't noticed it since.

I know on 2nd gen 4runners they used a small electric pusher fan that switched on with the ac to help ac cool better. It's common to see those retrofitted into other Toyotas and pick ups of the same generation.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
I have a rubber seal between the radiator and condenser, but nothing extra between the condenser and core support, except the seals that run down the side.

The idea is to keep the cool air in front and hot behind the radiator. The auto manufacturers now have seals all around the radiator and condenser . My understanding without the seals air can travel through the radiator and condenser then back to the front in a circular motion isf the seals are not there.
 
How did you attach the module to the rear of the panel?

3M double sided tape. It’s the red part in this picture. I did remove a little material on the back of the interior trim so the homelink pieces would snap together better. You can see it in the pic too.

1659744628613.jpeg
 
I ended up removing the Hayden 2791 severe duty clutch and put the Hayden HD 2771 clutch back on. The severe duty seemed to rob some power in certain situations. My whole reason to try the severe duty was see if it would help make the A/C a little bit cooler in slow or stop and go traffic, but it didn't.
 
Replaced front and rear diff fluid today. I tried some Lucas Oil 85w-140 in the front to see if it would help quiet the ratcheting of the Torq Locker in the front. I noticed no difference. When I put the locker in, I added a Rugged Ridge diff guard. Didn't like the allen head bolts so I replaced them with bolts. On three of them, it interfered with getting a socket cleanly on the bolts, so today I clearanced the guard a little bit and repainted it.

For the rear, I used Valvoline 85w-140 and some MOPAR friction modifier, used a Lubelocker gasket and installed a Rugged Ridge diff guard on it too. No clearanceing needed for the Dana 44 guard. My tags on the rear that tell the gear ratio have been bent and busted for a while now. I thought about leaving them off but ended up just putting them in one bolt and bending them out of the way.


IMG_5022.JPG


IMG_5028.JPG


IMG_5032.JPG


IMG_5018.JPG


IMG_5021.JPG


IMG_5024.JPG
 
I should have mentioned that on mine I've used 85w140 all along. Only because that's what was recommended on the box my original RGA gears came in. My second regear got Dana gears but I've still been running the heavier oil and that may be why my ratcheting is barely audible and only in specific situations.
 
I ended up removing the Hayden 2791 severe duty clutch and put the Hayden HD 2771 clutch back on. The severe duty seemed to rob some power in certain situations. My whole reason to try the severe duty was see if it would help make the A/C a little bit cooler in slow or stop and go traffic, but it didn't.

I hate the 2791. You probably saw in my cooling system failure thread that I actually thought it was locked up on my trip to Colorado. I was engine braking downhill, zero load for miles at a stretch, with the thermostat holding minimum temp and the fan was turned up to 11. Ridiculous.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
I should have mentioned that on mine I've used 85w140 all along. Only because that's what was recommended on the box my original RGA gears came in. My second regear got Dana gears but I've still been running the heavier oil and that may be why my ratcheting is barely audible and only in specific situations.

I had Valvoline 85w-140 in the front when I installed the locker. I tried the Lucas Oil because I thought their additive might get in there a quiet down the 2WD ratcheting.

This is the first time I’ve had the 85w-140 in the rear axle though.

Yeah, a lot of slow speed or stop and go would seem to keep the 2791 engaged for a long time. Especially with the A/C on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: freedom_in_4low
Yeah, a lot of slow speed or stop and go would seem to keep the 2791 engaged for a long time. Especially with the A/C on.

I forgot to mention it was already doing it first thing in the morning when it was 40 degrees outside and I was running the heater. Crazy.

What's really ironic is the patent number embossed in the front of the clutch casting is for a special design that prevents the viscous fluid from draining into the working chamber for the specific purpose of preventing engaged startup, yet it seems to do exactly the opposite of that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
I forgot to mention it was already doing it first thing in the morning when it was 40 degrees outside and I was running the heater. Crazy.

What's really ironic is the patent number embossed in the front of the clutch casting is for a special design that prevents the viscous fluid from draining into the working chamber for the specific purpose of preventing engaged startup, yet it seems to do exactly the opposite of that.

That’s odd.
 
Did a couple things over the last couple days.

Made this shield out of a sheet of 1/8" rubber I had. Used push pins in existing holes and a small strip of 1/4" 3M double sided tape in the front. The idea was to help the fan and shroud draw more outside air versus hot underhood air through those big holes up there. Probably could have not cut the hole out for the hood spring and been fine.

a11.JPG


a12.JPG


a13.JPG


_____

Changed up the intake to the Buick air box mod I did a while back. Used a combination silicone hose, adapter and a block or rubber to reroute it more like the OEM intake location. Maybe I'll get some slightly cooler incoming air versus the original where it was pulling air from the rear/middle of the engine bay. Back in July I was viewing reading via the OBDII port and had 150 - 160 degree incoming air temps when sitting still or slow driving. When up to speed it would drop to the mid 130's. I wish I had gotten all the parts gathered up earlier so I could see what kind of differences there was but I'll probably have to wait until next summer as it's finally cooling off some here. Actually, I think it's been a pretty mild summer for the southeast.


Original set up.
1aa.JPG


IMG_0933.JPG



Cut a 3" hole in the air box and drilled some holes for 1/4-28 button head bolts. I used those so there would be less interference with the bolt head and the filter media. Best I can tell, they don't even touch. Made a gasket out of 1/16" inch rubber, seen laying on the bench.
1a.JPG



Got a 3" intake mount by Spectre at Advance Auto Parts. Trimmed one corner down and painted the visible areas satin black. Put together with 1/4-28 hardware and the gasket I made between the intake mount and the air box. I used a 3" to 2-1/2" silicone elbow attached to the air bow, then 2-1/2" silicone for the rest of it with a couple 2-1/2" aluminum connectors. Still waiting on a couple hose clamps to come in so I can completely finish it up.
2a1.JPG


2a2.JPG


2a.JPG


3a.JPG



Used a block of rubber t make a plug to put in the back side opening, using a jig saw to cut the rubber. About halfway through cutting, I got to thinking I bet a hockey puck would work. I don't know, I didn't have one handy, but it might be close.
4a.JPG


5a.JPG


6a.JPG


7a.JPG


8a.JPG


9a.JPG


10a.JPG