Moving to 40s: Need advice on wheels and tires

Once upon a time, the guy behind me broke something and we had a spare in camp. It was before the plaque. I hopped in Garry's rig as a passenger/spotter on my side, and we ran the rest of the trail, ran back to camp, dug the spare out, ran back up the beginning of Sledge and pulled in behind the broken rig. The total time we were gone was 45 minutes and they didn't even have the rig all the way apart yet.
Kat (Blaine's wife) did that for me by fetching your spare/bagged/rebuilt steering box, she was back with it before I could believe it. And to think at the time I was worried about her going back & forth to camp on her own. I learned that day she's quite worthy of such trails.

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Were they drinking on the job I take it? :LOL:
Beer isn't tolerated on the trail in any of the several groups I enjoy wheeling with. In fact we'll politely ask anyone caught drinking to leave since that dramatically increases the chance someone will get hurt or unnecessary breakage will occur.

'Hold my beer and watch this' is really bad news, Beer is not tolerated on the trail by many, especially the more difficult ones that require the most expertise and finesse.

Now around the campfire is a different story. :)
 
Kat (Blaine's wife) did that for me by fetching your spare/bagged/rebuilt steering box, she was back with it before I could believe it. And to think at the time I was worried about her going back & forth to camp on her own. I learned that day she's quite worthy of such trails.

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What most won't appreciate as much as I do is both of your breakages on that trail happened within 5' of each other.
 
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I think we’ve talked about this before.

Ive got a quote for an empty Dyantrac ProRock 60 housing with inner knuckles welded on in my email. Not sure why you cant get an empty housing quote...

For the hybrid 44/60 they told me they will not sell it unless it is totally assembled. But this time I'm just gunna ask for a ProRock 44 with the tubes installed for a drivers drop. I don't want any brackets or C's or anything else. Then I can build it from there.
 
In the Northeast, you'll want a beadlock that can drain water from melting snow before it becomes ice and screws up the balance of your wheel.
That’s as simple as picking a wheel you like and then adding beadlock rings with drains. OMF has lite rings with drains machined in them.

OMF may be supplier of KMC’s rings as they look identical to OMF’s long offered domestically made SLD rings.
 
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I can attest to running out of room with 40s and any width being less than 65.5" . I just finished my KP60/Sterling swap and running 40s on H2 rims (5.5" BS) I plan on swapping the rims for steelies for now with approx 4" BS.

I shortened my front axle to match the rear 65" approx width. My high steer (passenger) arm is very very close (sometimes) hits the sway bar link I have. If not for the sway bar mount, I would clear steering lock to lock , but things are VERY tight. I chose to narrow my axle because of the terrain up in the PNW. Tight tree trails don't work with full size axles. I am at around 106" wheelbase, and plan to move my tank back further in a year or so. It is not an ideal wheelbase to some, but performs just great for me.

I love how so many people on here are experts on axles that they have never run. Just hearsay form the internet searching and postings on forums. Let the guy do his build. We all find out what limits our rigs can take, and some of us adjust our driving style and/or upgrade again to something to better handle what it is intended for.

As for rims and tires. I really like the look of the KMC wheels, but they are pricey, and even more for us Canadians. I have the Procomp MT2s as well, as I only paid $1800 cad for 4 on H2 rims. Once they die, I will probably go to a TSL or IROK
 
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