Multi Process Welding Machine Recomendation

Jorge Bolivar

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Do any of you have a 120V multi process welding machine and can talk about Pro's and Cons?

Always go for a 240 Vac welding machine, looking at something more modern I saw a whole lot of this multi process machine from reputable companies but they are 120 Vac.

I'm a weekend warrior welder and most of the welding is done on my LJ stuff around the house. Maybe 3/8" thick max.

BTW, after 6 years of use my HF welder rectifier went bad so I need a replacement.
 
I have a Lincoln LE 31 Multi Process, works excellent for many lower voltage application. I find my self questioning wether I really need my 220v a lot of the times.

Technology has came a long way over the past few years. With variable amperage, you can weld lighter gauge material, on heavier, turn it up.

It‘s not a 220v, but it really works well, in my opinion.
 
We swear by Miller Multimatic. I must have 6-8 welding machines and We run them and surpass their duty cycles while they continue to work. I prefer the 211 over the newer 215's or 220's as it doesn't have a digital display, which a couple have given us some trouble.

I will say that amultiprocess is not the best at everything. There are better stand-alone mig machine, stand alone tig machine and stick wedlers.
 
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I have a Lincoln LE 31 Multi Process, works excellent for many lower voltage application. I find my self questioning wether I really need my 220v a lot of the times.

Technology has came a long way over the past few years. With variable amperage, you can weld lighter gauge material, on heavier, turn it up.

It‘s not a 220v, but it really works well, in my opinion.
Thanks for the feedback. We have this on our three top choices.
 
We swear by Miller Multimatic. I must have 6-8 welding machines and We run them and surpass their duty cycles while they continue to work. I prefer the 211 over the newer 215's or 220's as it doesn't have a digital display, which a couple have given us some trouble.

I will say that amultiprocess is not the best at everything. There are better stand-alone mig machine, stand alone tig machine and stick wedlers.
^^^ I started out looking at MP welders to replace a HF 110V. The more I read and talked to people, the more I realized a quality MIG was the way to go. I ended up buying a Miller 211, with a Spoolmate 150. For someone like me, who doesn't do a lot of welding, it takes all the guess work out of setting the welder for the material.
 
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We swear by Miller Multimatic. I must have 6-8 welding machines and We run them and surpass their duty cycles while they continue to work. I prefer the 211 over the newer 215's or 220's as it doesn't have a digital display, which a couple have given us some trouble.

I will say that amultiprocess is not the best at everything. There are better stand-alone mig machine, stand alone tig machine and stick wedlers.
Thanks for the input.
 
The difference between a 120 and 220 input welder is the ability to keep a steady electrical flow. To be able to keep up with a 220 machine, a 120 needs twice as many capacitors. This makes the machine heavy and expensive. It is doable but you pay. As a 120 machine reaches the limit on how much energy it has stored, the weld drops V and A. This may look like a spattering or stuck tips if the V drops first (most common). The 220 machine has the same problem, just later down the weld, so much so that you may never weld a bead long enough to reach that point.

To combat the problem, do short welds. 3/8" is pushing it. If you have digital gauges, get the Miller Welds app, it will put you in the zone every time.
 
^^^ I started out looking at MP welders to replace a HF 110V. The more I read and talked to people, the more I realized a quality MIG was the way to go. I ended up buying a Miller 211, with a Spoolmate 150. For someone like me, who doesn't do a lot of welding, it takes all the guess work out of setting the welder for the material.
And you probably were talked the truth. Decisions, decisions.
 
For someone like me, who doesn't do a lot of welding, it takes all the guess work out of setting the welder for the material.
I don't find that to be true. It is close, but I'm continually adjusting mine. If I use their numbers, it is too hot for some stuff, too cold for other stuff. The average seems to be okay but just average.
 
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I don't find that to be true. It is close, but I'm continually adjusting mine. If I use their numbers, it is too hot for some stuff, too cold for other stuff. The average seems to be okay but just average.
It works exceptionally well for someone that is below average at welding, like me. You sir are in another league! :)
 
Check out the ESAB Rebel EMP 205ic.

awesome MP welder. Has capability of running 110/220v. Plus the AC/DC tig is a unique feature. It’s been a great welder for me.
 
I have a Lincoln 210MP. Its a dual input voltage welder, multi-process welder. I don't stick weld (well, I haven't yet) but I do know a little about TIG and I'm to the point where MIG is becoming a tool in my toolbox (in other words, I don't think of projects just to run the welder. Its there and it gives me flexibility when I'm trying to solve a problem). I will pick up a torch and pedal sooner, rather than later. Anyway, it works pretty well for me. It gets you in the ball park on settings and provides a lot of customization, if you want it. I twiddle with the dials a little, depending on what I'm doing.

Note...It is NOT an AC TIG welder, so Aluminum is out, unless you buy a spool gun and MIG it.
 
After all day trying to get a nice MIG welder and no find any else than HB or boxed stores machines one of our customers offer me his Lincoln LE31MP i exchange of an RGB Pixels Christmas lights setup. So far is OK. Can’t wait to have Argon gas and test the TIG side.
AC9D3D13-4211-4AD0-A192-C340B8F99675.jpeg


Thanks all for the suggestions. If the LE31MP doesn’t cut it I will go with the ESAB rebel 241.
 
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