started welding tonight. Got the floor pan repaired. Pretty happy with how it turned out too.
This is the repair, looking down from the inside of the cab. I welded from the bottom up, so, the bead you see here is penetration from the other side. I have a couple of spots to hit again, so I don't get cracks in the paint. Anywhere you can see the split line from the original floor to the patch can possibly crack.
This shot is from the bottom (underneath the Jeep). My beads are getting better. I've been reading about sheet metal repair and with 16 ga you can push a bead about an inch before it gets "too hot." Lots easier and quicker than trying to stitch weld the whole thing.
Finally, this is the side view. Nothing really to see, other than a nice complete weld flange to attach the rocker to!
What have I learned so far?
I should have cut more original steel out of the repair area. I blew a hole through in a couple spots. I thought the 3/4" margin I gave myself would be enough, but it was not. Thankfully, I'm getting good enough welding rusty junk that I was able to fill it. Little grinding and some body filler and it will not even be noticeable (from the inside anyway).
Tack welds need a TON of power to get enough penetration to really hold. I set the welder up per the chart for 16 ga. I stitch welded a practice seam. I ground the bead off, hammered the metal flat, and cracked the weld right along the original seam. I broke it apart by hand. Tacking the metal, then welding in 1" or so long sections works MUCH better. The arc has enough time to develop and you get good heat penetration. Gotta jump around though, or else you'll warp everything.
Welding upside down above your head is as challenging as it is dangerous. I burned a hole in my shop coat, sweatshirt, t-shirt and chest skin. Needless to say, I invested in some PPE. I burned a hole through my helmet tonight too! Gravity is a bitch...the puddle likes to pull down too, which is another reason to weld in short sections vs a full seam.
I'll finish up tomorrow I think, then have my uncle come over and critique my work. My goal is to get this thing back on the road by April 1st. I think I can do it. Stay tuned.
. Basically if you look at the underside of the step that attaches to the rocker, you see the heads of the screws, but you can't get to the flange nuts on the back of the aluminum rocker (Without removing it). Trust me, its really well thought out. Nothing to be concerned about, can't say that for all of their stuff though 
