MiRustyjeep
- Thread starter Mike_H
- Start date
Won't you need a 1.25" BL to do this? Bring your dial indicator and gear tools. My offer has selfish reasons.
I may be completely off but, I thought I read a post by Blaine that said it could be done without a BL. But don't take that at 100% as I cannot seem to find it. I really do not need a BL, other than for something like that.
It's all about real estate. Is there enough room for the fuel lines not to rub against the tub without the BL? Personally, I'm ok dragging along some rocks if I have to, and I have.
OP
Oops...
Welded that flange in the wrong spot. The section I cut out had an angle on it, but I thought it was straight. I lined it up as such, so the bolt holes were a half inch off. Had to cut it back off and reweld it.
Got it back together tonight though. This time, I tacked it together and put it in the Jeep to make sure the holes lined up!
Tomorrow, I'll have to clean and repaint the area...
Welded that flange in the wrong spot. The section I cut out had an angle on it, but I thought it was straight. I lined it up as such, so the bolt holes were a half inch off. Had to cut it back off and reweld it.
Got it back together tonight though. This time, I tacked it together and put it in the Jeep to make sure the holes lined up!
Tomorrow, I'll have to clean and repaint the area...
OP
IT LIVES!!!!! Fired her up today. No driving, cuz the weather turned to absolute shit, but I did a systems check and all are a go. Last couple of days have been filled with finishing those little projects and giving everything a once over.
Things left to do:
Adjust parking brake
Torque wheel nuts
Aim Fog Lights
Finish CB install
Install Passenger Rear Flare.
I'm sure something will come up during my shakedown run.
Finished measurements of my lift. Numbers were taken from the ground to the frame, just ahead and behind the LCA mounts. Front is at 18" and rear is 18 1/4" This is with a 3/4" full gas tank too (Yes...I've been wrestling with a 3/4 full tank this whole time).
The tank tuck...You can also see some in process rust repair.
Gotta wait for overall pictures for the weather to get a bit nicer, so I can get her out of the barn and cleaned up a little. She's Filthy!
Things left to do:
Adjust parking brake
Torque wheel nuts
Aim Fog Lights
Finish CB install
Install Passenger Rear Flare.
I'm sure something will come up during my shakedown run.
Finished measurements of my lift. Numbers were taken from the ground to the frame, just ahead and behind the LCA mounts. Front is at 18" and rear is 18 1/4" This is with a 3/4" full gas tank too (Yes...I've been wrestling with a 3/4 full tank this whole time).
The tank tuck...You can also see some in process rust repair.
Gotta wait for overall pictures for the weather to get a bit nicer, so I can get her out of the barn and cleaned up a little. She's Filthy!
OP
Took her for a quick shake down today around town. Went to an empty lot to check the 4wd... That cable is nice! Burned off whatever was smoking on the down pipes, and washed her. Got up to about 40 and no vibes yet.
I will say there is a bit more body roll now. It will take a little to get used to. The rear doesn't exactly feel like it's moving in concert with the front. I'll take some measurements and make sure my suspension is correct. I did notice some tire rub in a full lock RH turn too, so I'll have to recheck my track bar.
All in all, I'm stoked with the stance. I should have no problems with the tires getting into the fenders, my acceleration is still good, and they are a load range "C" tire. All good things.
I looked for a rock to take a poster shot with, but my town is fresh out!
I will say there is a bit more body roll now. It will take a little to get used to. The rear doesn't exactly feel like it's moving in concert with the front. I'll take some measurements and make sure my suspension is correct. I did notice some tire rub in a full lock RH turn too, so I'll have to recheck my track bar.
All in all, I'm stoked with the stance. I should have no problems with the tires getting into the fenders, my acceleration is still good, and they are a load range "C" tire. All good things.
I looked for a rock to take a poster shot with, but my town is fresh out!
Sounds great. A lot of work finally come to a culmination. Great to see your TJ back on the road. I look forward to your next install, since I now have enough $$$ in the Jeep account to buy you know what. Can't decide right now between that and an AntiRock and a front PowerTrax Lunchbox Locker.
OP
They gave me a build date of 4-11. I'm very close to JCR, and they are drop shipping so I'm hoping I have them the 13th or 14th.
Looking at the instructions online, I'm not happy with how they fasten the lowers to the tub, so I picked up some 3/8" nutserts in preparation. They want to to drill all the way through the floor! Nope...I'll install nutserts to the torque boxes. They do include backing plates for those through bolts, but I don't want the bumps on the floor.
Hmm, do you think you can avoid flex at the step without the backing plates attaching to the through bolts? That was one of my big concerns with all sliders that have a step but not an internal bracket to increase rigidity.
OP
So, the bolts that go through the side, that would resist bending when you place weight on the step are through bolts, plus there is a plate that will bolt under the seats to reinforce the tub. The bolts that attach the bottom to the torque boxes are the ones that go through. Doesn't make sense to me, as it would be very easy to collapse the floor locally where the bolts are, even with the reinforcing plates they provide... Which is why I bought nutserts to install to the torque box.
This is going to be interesting. I look forward to your install pics and description.
OP
Couple things today. I ended up with a leaking real axle seal, so I pulled that out to fix it.
Secondly, I pulled my hardtop, and got to work stripping down the windshield frame for replacement. I picked up a new used one locally for 250 bucks. Its the right color and has no nasty rust on it. I am going to repaint the lower part of the frame, just because it has rock chips. Bad part is that it is from a 98. I have an 04. There are a few differences between the two. I'll write up a how to on that, as 03-06 windshield frames rot WAY worse than the earlier ones. Not sure why...but all the used ones I found were 97-02. I did find a couple later models but they were $$$$$. Mine also has good glass in it, so after I get some new holes put in the frame for the extra trim, and finish painting, it will bolt right in.
Here is the old one...
Secondly, I pulled my hardtop, and got to work stripping down the windshield frame for replacement. I picked up a new used one locally for 250 bucks. Its the right color and has no nasty rust on it. I am going to repaint the lower part of the frame, just because it has rock chips. Bad part is that it is from a 98. I have an 04. There are a few differences between the two. I'll write up a how to on that, as 03-06 windshield frames rot WAY worse than the earlier ones. Not sure why...but all the used ones I found were 97-02. I did find a couple later models but they were $$$$$. Mine also has good glass in it, so after I get some new holes put in the frame for the extra trim, and finish painting, it will bolt right in.
Here is the old one...
OP
Also, I had a box sitting on my porch when I got home...
MY SLIDERS CAME IN! It only took a month...They look pretty impressive so far. 3/16" steel all over, the welds look good, and they are nicely finished. I did see a couple things I don't like. They must be using a laser to cut the patterns, and the start points must have a delay. There is a little extra melt on the holes...Here is a pic of their logo. You can see the little tab sticking up. Not a huge deal...they are unfinished so I need to paint them. Nothing a quick hit with the Die Grinder won't clean up, but still...
Waiting Patiently for their turn to be worked on (Yes, my wagon has a lift, too)
Overall, I think I'm going to like them. This is what they look like, installed...
MY SLIDERS CAME IN! It only took a month...They look pretty impressive so far. 3/16" steel all over, the welds look good, and they are nicely finished. I did see a couple things I don't like. They must be using a laser to cut the patterns, and the start points must have a delay. There is a little extra melt on the holes...Here is a pic of their logo. You can see the little tab sticking up. Not a huge deal...they are unfinished so I need to paint them. Nothing a quick hit with the Die Grinder won't clean up, but still...
Waiting Patiently for their turn to be worked on (Yes, my wagon has a lift, too)
Overall, I think I'm going to like them. This is what they look like, installed...
OP
Well, I've been working, slowing, on getting the new parts I ordered installed. I have my bumper on, Still need to add some frame tie in brackets but it will do for now. The Bumper is an E-Autogrills one from Amazon. Its extra tall to cover my body lift. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IS92ZJO/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Par for the course...Before I install anything new...I need to address rust. Just surface rust in this case, but it always delays me. I also broke EVERY bolt that held the factory bumper and tow hook on. Have I mentioned how much fun working on a rust belt vehicle is?
I also had to drill a few extra holes. My jeep didn't have the 4 holes through the rear crossmember, inboard of the frame rails. Anyway, got those drilled and some paint on the frame. Once it was dry, I tried to install the bumper. No dice. My spare hit, and I could NOT reach the inside bolts...They are completely blocked. So, I had to order a Rugged Ridge Spare Bracket and drop the four bolts holding the rear of the tank to the crossmember.
That gave me just enough room to get my hands and a wrench in there to tighten the bolts.
Removing the tire carrier also showed some minor surface rust...so my tailgate got a fresh coat of Black Laquer too
Finally, I got everything installed and back to normal. I love the bumper, and how it hides the body lift from the rear...but it was kind of a giant pain in the ass!
Par for the course...Before I install anything new...I need to address rust. Just surface rust in this case, but it always delays me. I also broke EVERY bolt that held the factory bumper and tow hook on. Have I mentioned how much fun working on a rust belt vehicle is?
I also had to drill a few extra holes. My jeep didn't have the 4 holes through the rear crossmember, inboard of the frame rails. Anyway, got those drilled and some paint on the frame. Once it was dry, I tried to install the bumper. No dice. My spare hit, and I could NOT reach the inside bolts...They are completely blocked. So, I had to order a Rugged Ridge Spare Bracket and drop the four bolts holding the rear of the tank to the crossmember.
That gave me just enough room to get my hands and a wrench in there to tighten the bolts.
Removing the tire carrier also showed some minor surface rust...so my tailgate got a fresh coat of Black Laquer too
Finally, I got everything installed and back to normal. I love the bumper, and how it hides the body lift from the rear...but it was kind of a giant pain in the ass!
OP
I've also been working on my JCR Crusader rock sliders.
https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/SWBS/SWBSL-CR.html
I painted them over the course of a couple weekends. All parts got a coat of Farm and Implement paint, with hardener, in gloss black. I have a decent HVLP gun that I shot them with. Then I scuffed up the sliders and hit them with the charcoal wheel coating. Wanted the color of the wheels but the durability of the Implement Paint.
Started to work on installing them. I've been reading a ton about sliders and the best way to install them. I tried to install them assembled as the Savvy instructions say (both two piece designs). That didn't work out the best. I ended up mounting the drivers side slightly too high, so they don't wrap under properly. I installed the passenger side according to JCR and it went much better. Will need to fix the drivers side by slotting the holes in the tub. No biggie. There are a LOT of reasons I tried to avoid the mounting method JCR used. If you are planning on buying a set and are intrested, PM me and we can chat. I currently have a call into their tech support to talk through some things.
Anyway, another part that looks AWESOME installed, but it was kind of a giant pain in the ass.
From the underside. 4 bolts hold them to the torque boxes.
This is one of the features that really sold me on the JCR ones. They provide a reinforcing plate to the seats to help prevent the tub from being moved in sideways, so you can actually use the sliders as a pivot, if necessary.
Now....having installed these...Would I do it again. I think so. They are VERY heavy duty, and seem pretty solid. I do have some issues with their hardware and fastener strategy. The Savvy Sliders, while I have zero personal experience, are "better." They were also about 200 dollars more to my door than the JCR ones were. So, to me, the value proposition was there. I can fix the hardware issue...for a lot less than 200 bucks. Hopefully, they are helpful on the phone and they can either explain why they want to do some things I think are a bad idea, or I can come up with a better way with some background info.
https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/SWBS/SWBSL-CR.html
I painted them over the course of a couple weekends. All parts got a coat of Farm and Implement paint, with hardener, in gloss black. I have a decent HVLP gun that I shot them with. Then I scuffed up the sliders and hit them with the charcoal wheel coating. Wanted the color of the wheels but the durability of the Implement Paint.
Started to work on installing them. I've been reading a ton about sliders and the best way to install them. I tried to install them assembled as the Savvy instructions say (both two piece designs). That didn't work out the best. I ended up mounting the drivers side slightly too high, so they don't wrap under properly. I installed the passenger side according to JCR and it went much better. Will need to fix the drivers side by slotting the holes in the tub. No biggie. There are a LOT of reasons I tried to avoid the mounting method JCR used. If you are planning on buying a set and are intrested, PM me and we can chat. I currently have a call into their tech support to talk through some things.
Anyway, another part that looks AWESOME installed, but it was kind of a giant pain in the ass.
From the underside. 4 bolts hold them to the torque boxes.
This is one of the features that really sold me on the JCR ones. They provide a reinforcing plate to the seats to help prevent the tub from being moved in sideways, so you can actually use the sliders as a pivot, if necessary.
Now....having installed these...Would I do it again. I think so. They are VERY heavy duty, and seem pretty solid. I do have some issues with their hardware and fastener strategy. The Savvy Sliders, while I have zero personal experience, are "better." They were also about 200 dollars more to my door than the JCR ones were. So, to me, the value proposition was there. I can fix the hardware issue...for a lot less than 200 bucks. Hopefully, they are helpful on the phone and they can either explain why they want to do some things I think are a bad idea, or I can come up with a better way with some background info.
For what it’s worth, the rock sliders look great and look like they’ll hold up under use.
Man, rust, rust everywhere, kudos to you friend, looking great, lacquer looking great too. It’s really all coming together....that bumper hides the crack, nice, but I like to see some crack, unlike some around here....
Man, rust, rust everywhere, kudos to you friend, looking great, lacquer looking great too. It’s really all coming together....that bumper hides the crack, nice, but I like to see some crack, unlike some around here....