MiRustyjeep
- Thread starter Mike_H
- Start date
OP
Jumped on a Craigslist deal today. Found a complete (down to the screws) soft top for 135 bucks. It's dirty, and the frame needs paint, but overall in great shape. The vinyl windows are still transparent even. Only downside is that is spice. ..would have preferred black. Not gonna sweat it though. Bestop replacement is like 800 bucks, I was gonna go with a trektop NX but those are almost 600, so I'll be happy with 135 for a while. If the fabric doesn't clean up, I'll get a replacement. I really bought it for the frame. It also came with some half door uppers, so I'll relist those, and make some of my money back.
I actually like the spice on black. Wasn't sure I was going to, but I couldn't pass it up for the price. I had to strip the frame down and repaint it, cuz I'm anal about that shit, and put a new windshield header on. Total about 220 dollars for a complete softop W/ a bonus set of half door uppers.
I actually like the spice on black. Wasn't sure I was going to, but I couldn't pass it up for the price. I had to strip the frame down and repaint it, cuz I'm anal about that shit, and put a new windshield header on. Total about 220 dollars for a complete softop W/ a bonus set of half door uppers.
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Upside is spice will be somewhat cooler than the black after having sat in the sun for a while.
OP
Yeah, I definitely looked before I bought it...Its not bad.
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Jeepersteve71
TJ Enthusiast
I actually love the black Jeep brown top look! That's a sweet deal! That's also something's in my opinion the JK's lack. I like that on CJ's-TJ's you have top color options and cool interior options. Nice find!
JKs used to at least be offered with khaki or black tops; khaki was discontinued years ago. I agree, there's a lot more top options for TJs.
OP
I'm going to get the top cleaned up this weekend. I'm not sure where I'm going to store my hardtop yet...Probably have to rig it up into the garage rafters.
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OP
More money out the door on necessary, but not fun, stuff. Ever since I bought this thing, there has been a slight rattle in first, neutral, and reverse. I suspected throw out bearing, but everyone who drove it said it shifted really well. It's still been in the back of my mind though. Last weekend while I was wheeling it, I was on the clutch a lot more than just driving back and forth to work. It was shifting harder than normal, and I was having a hard time with the clutch. ..I've been driving a manual since 14, so it surprised me. Anyway, I had my dad take a listen. ..he's been working on cars his whole life, and he confirmed it. Bad throw out bearing. So that is on order. Since I have to pull the transmission to do the bearing, I figured I change the clutch while I was at it. I bought a national brand bearing, LUK clutch kit, and a Timken pilot bearing. I also have a set of parking brake pads sitting in the garage, ready to be installed.
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OP
I'm accumulating quite a pile of parts lately! All replacements though unfortunately.
I did pick up an "upgrade" exhaust. Mine is pretty shot. Its starting to tick, both tailpipe hangers are broken, and the muffler is starting to separate. Found a nice used MagnaFlow on Craigslist. I know its doesn't really help with power, but it should sound pretty good. I've always like magnaflow's sound. Got it for as cheap as a replacement stock system would cost too...and its all stainless. 150 bucks, I figured I couldn't go wrong. Magnaflow uses 400 series stainless in their mandrel bent tubing, which is why it looks rusty. 400 Series has more Iron in it, so it doesn't work harden like 300 series does. Over time, after being bent and hardened, a 300 series (higher chromium so higher corrosion resistant) would have probably cracked. At least that is what they say, and its backed up by what little I know about material science. The tip is 300 series, so it should clean up nicely. It appear that the muffler body is also 300 series, so I could clean that up, but I probably won't. I guess it depends on how Anal I feel this weekend.
I also have all the parts around for my clutch and throw-out bearing replacement. Waiting on my Torx sockets and the throwout fork spring.
To the left, we see a set of parking brake pads. Its time to replace/rebuild that system. I tore into them a couple weeks ago, and found the linings flaking off in my hand. I guess that explains why I can't get any resistance on the lever. So I ordered the new pads...hopefully the hardware is decent. If not, the kits are in stock at my local parts store.
Finally, I am going to try to get the soft-top installed. I tore my frame all apart. This is the one I bought for 130 bucks about a month ago. PO thought he'd brush a nasty thick coat of rustoleum on it. Its was full of runs and drips. NASTY. So, being the anal bastard that I am, I stripped all the paint, removed all the hardware and am in the process of refinishing. I have treated all the rusty spots (couple of the corners were bad) with rust reformer and now its getting a nice satin black topcoat. Looks like the top sat in water or something. where the nylon webbing was riveted in to support the back section of the top was really rusty, like the nylon held the water in contact with the frame.
Been working on a lift for my hard top too. I have all the parts, but I need to assemble it. Oh yeah, I have to sharpen the mower blades, hang my deck, and roll the yard too! I need a vacation day....
I did pick up an "upgrade" exhaust. Mine is pretty shot. Its starting to tick, both tailpipe hangers are broken, and the muffler is starting to separate. Found a nice used MagnaFlow on Craigslist. I know its doesn't really help with power, but it should sound pretty good. I've always like magnaflow's sound. Got it for as cheap as a replacement stock system would cost too...and its all stainless. 150 bucks, I figured I couldn't go wrong. Magnaflow uses 400 series stainless in their mandrel bent tubing, which is why it looks rusty. 400 Series has more Iron in it, so it doesn't work harden like 300 series does. Over time, after being bent and hardened, a 300 series (higher chromium so higher corrosion resistant) would have probably cracked. At least that is what they say, and its backed up by what little I know about material science. The tip is 300 series, so it should clean up nicely. It appear that the muffler body is also 300 series, so I could clean that up, but I probably won't. I guess it depends on how Anal I feel this weekend.
I also have all the parts around for my clutch and throw-out bearing replacement. Waiting on my Torx sockets and the throwout fork spring.
To the left, we see a set of parking brake pads. Its time to replace/rebuild that system. I tore into them a couple weeks ago, and found the linings flaking off in my hand. I guess that explains why I can't get any resistance on the lever. So I ordered the new pads...hopefully the hardware is decent. If not, the kits are in stock at my local parts store.
Finally, I am going to try to get the soft-top installed. I tore my frame all apart. This is the one I bought for 130 bucks about a month ago. PO thought he'd brush a nasty thick coat of rustoleum on it. Its was full of runs and drips. NASTY. So, being the anal bastard that I am, I stripped all the paint, removed all the hardware and am in the process of refinishing. I have treated all the rusty spots (couple of the corners were bad) with rust reformer and now its getting a nice satin black topcoat. Looks like the top sat in water or something. where the nylon webbing was riveted in to support the back section of the top was really rusty, like the nylon held the water in contact with the frame.
Been working on a lift for my hard top too. I have all the parts, but I need to assemble it. Oh yeah, I have to sharpen the mower blades, hang my deck, and roll the yard too! I need a vacation day....
OP
Started tearing into the jeep tonight. Got the skidplate and front driveshaft removed. Thank goodness for kroil... didn't spin any of the frame insert, and have only broken one bolt so far (tranny mount) I also rounded a head on one of my drive shaft bolts, so that will need replacement, along with the stupid wrench that did it.
I hope the rest of the stuff comes apart this easily. It will be a piece of cake if it does.
Oh...I did find one unforseen problem...the circuit board cover is missing on one of my locker pumps. Its still working, but I'm sure it will give up sooner or later. A quick look online shows those pumps to be expensive buggers...150 bucks. Anyone else know where to get them?
I guess I could fill the cavity with epoxy... that should protect it.
I hope the rest of the stuff comes apart this easily. It will be a piece of cake if it does.
Oh...I did find one unforseen problem...the circuit board cover is missing on one of my locker pumps. Its still working, but I'm sure it will give up sooner or later. A quick look online shows those pumps to be expensive buggers...150 bucks. Anyone else know where to get them?
I guess I could fill the cavity with epoxy... that should protect it.
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One more reason I call those skid plates "shovels". They just scoop the mud up and keep it there.
Cheapest I found that pump for anywhere was here:
https://www.wermopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-pump-axle-locker-5127834aa
Cheapest I found that pump for anywhere was here:
https://www.wermopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-pump-axle-locker-5127834aa
OP
OP
What a day...Tranny fought me the whole way out. It wasn't so much the nuts and bolts underneath, as it was the shift linkages and the interior access panel. They used those STUPID zip nuts and nutserts on all 9 of the screws that hold that access panel, and I think I got 5 of them off. SMH. I ended up just pulling the whole shift tower off the transmission. I also had to remove the support for the 4WD selector shift linkages. It was a super pain in the ass...not of the linkages would pop out of their bushings.
Anyway, its out.
AND my job got bigger and more expensive. The throw out bearing is definitely bad...It rattles like a maraca. What I didn't expect is the input shaft to need attention. Apparently, somewhere along the line, the pilot bearing seized, and spun on the input shaft. Its got a pretty good groove worn in it.
Its about a 100 bucks for the part...But I have to split the tranny to replace it. So, I have the bell housing and transfer case off of the tranny now, and am trying to decide if I tackle this myself, or just take it in. I've rebuilt transmissions on my garden tractors, so I'm pretty sure I'm capable. I just gotta read the FSM and see how many special tools are required. Looks like only one, to remove the shifter lock. Anybody that's done it before want to give some advice?
Now I've got a couple of days of cleaning things up...wire wheel the frame and skid plate, give them a fresh coat of paint. Replace the speed nuts and nutserts on the access panel, give the whole area a good scrub. Tired of filling my damn ears full of sand each time I touch something above my head. I gotta start saving for a lift!
Anyway, its out.
AND my job got bigger and more expensive. The throw out bearing is definitely bad...It rattles like a maraca. What I didn't expect is the input shaft to need attention. Apparently, somewhere along the line, the pilot bearing seized, and spun on the input shaft. Its got a pretty good groove worn in it.
Its about a 100 bucks for the part...But I have to split the tranny to replace it. So, I have the bell housing and transfer case off of the tranny now, and am trying to decide if I tackle this myself, or just take it in. I've rebuilt transmissions on my garden tractors, so I'm pretty sure I'm capable. I just gotta read the FSM and see how many special tools are required. Looks like only one, to remove the shifter lock. Anybody that's done it before want to give some advice?
Now I've got a couple of days of cleaning things up...wire wheel the frame and skid plate, give them a fresh coat of paint. Replace the speed nuts and nutserts on the access panel, give the whole area a good scrub. Tired of filling my damn ears full of sand each time I touch something above my head. I gotta start saving for a lift!
OP
Good news today...with the transfer case out of the vehicle I was able to get it up on a bench and get a good grab on the fill plug. Was able to get it off without extraordinary measures. I did determine that the input shaft seal is leaking, so I'll have to replace that. It let some water in...
OP