MiRustyjeep

[Mike_H]

I'm really impressed!

So I have to ask: With the cost you paid for the used arms, the rebuild kits, the zinc coating, paint, and the time you put into them, how much do you think you ended up spending total (valuing your time at some sort of hourly wage as well)?

I'm only asking because I'm curious to know whether or not you actually saved enough that it made it worth while, or if it would have been more cost effective to buy new arms? I imagine that unless you paid a lot of money for the arms, you probably came out on top.

I didn't know that about over-greasing the arms. What is it about over-greasing them that causes that to happen?

I didn't pay much for the arms. That was part of the deal. I don't want to post the price up here, as I got them from a member. He wasn't sure they could be saved, so I took a chance. I do know that another member here posted some for sale in New York, that would have needed about the same amount of work for 300 bucks. I have probably 10 hours into refinishing them, the new bushings were about 200 dollars, it was 30 to have parts plated, 10 bucks into spray paint, and about 50 for new hardware.

Working on stuff like this, I don't put a value on my time. I enjoy this part of the Hobby...so to me, its not work and I don't associate a monetary value. I don't know that it would have been worth it, had I paid someone to do it. Cash outlay, not counting the arms themselves, was 300 ish dollars. Figure the arbitrary 300 dollar going rate of used and sketchy arms and you get $600 total. So...I'm WAY ahead of buying brand news ones at 1400 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F41MGTT/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Plus, it was a fun project to restore them. I love working on Good, quality Stuff that needs a refresh...What I don't like doing is putting effort into something that isn't worth it. I found a set of Rough Country arms for sale from a guy who parts Jeeps locally. He wanted 500 bucks for them, and they were BEAT. They are still for sale, and he's dropped the price to 400. I wouldn't put effort into those. Its not worth restoring those, IMHO. The joints are just not designed well enough. Rubicon Express fit into the same category, but at least you could replace the RE bushings with Duroflex.

Its also why I went for the Rubicon in the snow belt, vs a standard Sport or X. If I'm putting the effort into a restoration, I want it to go to the Highest value, biggest return version I can get.

 

[Mike_H]

I didn't know that about over-greasing the arms. What is it about over-greasing them that causes that to happen?

Yeah, Maybe not overgreasing, per se, but there is definitely a pressure component to it. Blaine said the material extrudes due to the grease not going where it supposed to, and that he only greases them when he puts them together, and only between the ball and race. No grease in the shell. It might simply be that once they are greased, the fit of the ball to the Poly races is so tight that the grease can't squeeze out easily.

 

[Mike_H]

Nice work, there has to be some satisfaction in bringing those back to life.

There is. The anticipation of getting them on the Jeep is almost more than I can stand!

Man, looks like you got them where they need to be. Great work, as always. You sound like you learned a lot along the way!

Thanks. I hope they stay looking decent. My prediction is that this time, next year, I'll be posting up about having the arms re-powdercoated because my paint isn't holding up. Yes, I learned a lot. Try to learn every day!

 

[Chris]

I didn't pay much for the arms. That was part of the deal. I don't want to post the price up here, as I got them from a member. He wasn't sure they could be saved, so I took a chance. I do know that another member here posted some for sale in New York, that would have needed about the same amount of work for 300 bucks. I have probably 10 hours into refinishing them, the new bushings were about 200 dollars, it was 30 to have parts plated, 10 bucks into spray paint, and about 50 for new hardware.

Working on stuff like this, I don't put a value on my time. I enjoy this part of the Hobby...so to me, its not work and I don't associate a monetary value. I don't know that it would have been worth it, had I paid someone to do it. Cash outlay, not counting the arms themselves, was 300 ish dollars. Figure the arbitrary 300 dollar going rate of used and sketchy arms and you get $600 total. So...I'm WAY ahead of buying brand news ones at 1400 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F41MGTT/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Plus, it was a fun project to restore them. I love working on Good, quality Stuff that needs a refresh...What I don't like doing is putting effort into something that isn't worth it. I found a set of Rough Country arms for sale from a guy who parts Jeeps locally. He wanted 500 bucks for them, and they were BEAT. They are still for sale, and he's dropped the price to 400. I wouldn't put effort into those. Its not worth restoring those, IMHO. The joints are just not designed well enough. Rubicon Express fit into the same category, but at least you could replace the RE bushings with Duroflex.

Its also why I went for the Rubicon in the snow belt, vs a standard Sport or X. If I'm putting the effort into a restoration, I want it to go to the Highest value, biggest return version I can get.

I hear what you're saying. I used to enjoy stuff like this a lot as well, but once I had kids I lis the ability to do this sort of thing in any sort of reasonable or realistic time frame. Of course I will get back to it as they get older (no question about it), but this seems like a fun project for sure.

Good to know about the JJs and grease. When I had my mid-arm lift installed, I noticed that they had greased the JJ so much that they literally had tons of grease coming out of them. Looks like this is something most people (including myself) probably weren't aware of.

 

[JMT]

Thanks. I hope they stay looking decent. My prediction is that this time, next year, I'll be posting up about having the arms re-powdercoated because my paint isn't holding up. Yes, I learned a lot. Try to learn every day!

I have the same problems with my paint holding up. Even when I scuff it up, self-etch it and then topcoat it, I run over rocks and my paint comes off. WTH?

Seeing that I'm moving to Spokane, WA, not many rocks around there, my mods are going to take a turn toward making it a pristine TJ. Not sure I will be too proud of it turning into a mall crawler though. Maybe I'll invest in BedTred or BedRug, some Kilmat or Dynamat, some nice Seat Covers with seat warmers and some Bridgers or Rubicon Extreme wheels. Man, I'll be in the lap of luxury.

 

[Mike_H]

I have the same problems with my paint holding up. Even when I scuff it up, self-etch it and then topcoat it, I run over rocks and my paint comes off. WTH?

Seeing that I'm moving to Spokane, WA, not many rocks around there, my mods are going to take a turn toward making it a pristine TJ. Not sure I will be too proud of it turning into a mall crawler though. Maybe I'll invest in BedTred or BedRug, some Kilmat or Dynamat, some nice Seat Covers with seat warmers and some Bridgers or Rubicon Extreme wheels. Man, I'll be in the lap of luxury.

Whats this you say? There has GOT to be some wheeling in Spokane! Lots of desert, not too far away, right?

And wait...I have AEV wheels and seat warmers. Don't you go lumping me in with Mall Crawlers! Them's Fightin words, right there...

 

[JMT]

Whats this you say? There has GOT to be some wheeling in Spokane! Lots of desert, not too far away, right?

And wait...I have AEV wheels and seat warmers. Don't you go lumping me in with Mall Crawlers! Them's Fightin words, right there...

Man, you're living the life with seat warmers!

AEV Wheels, you're living large brah!

Ok, so, I've had several PM's with wheelers in WA, there are places closer to the Cascades like Rimrock area about 33 and a half hours from Spokane, it's the hardest core wheelin in the state. Others on the East side are pointing me to Northern Idaho. Around Spokane itself, there's an OHV called 7-Mile. Can't figure out much about it. What I have seen looks like a bunch of dirt or sand, hard to tell. Another suck thing about up there is you have to have full tire coverage and mud flaps. Really? I'm going to try to avoid the full coverage entirely, maybe get some Rubicon flares, but the mud flaps, they seem to be a stickler on that one. They have to come down to the center of the rear wheel. If that's the case, I can see mine coming on and off in 5 minutes. That would look so stupid.

 

[bobthetj03]

Well done on the arm refresh! A lot of work, but you now have the satisfaction of a job well done and a quality set of arms under your rig.
This is what happens when you over grease a JJ. Lesson learned.

 

[psrivats]

@Mike_H well done on the rebuild of those arms! They look awesome. When are you mounting them on the Jeep?

 

[Mike_H]

@Mike_H well done on the rebuild of those arms! They look awesome. When are you mounting them on the Jeep?

Not sure yet. There isn't anything technically stopping me from doing it, but there are some other things I might do at the same time. Haven't decided yet.

 

[Mike_H]

Little bumpstop check today.

Also found a mudhole... Wasn't expecting it to be as deep as it was... On the positive side, my winch performed flawlessly, dragging my Jeep and and about a cubic yard of clay out of the hole.

Now, cleanup...

 

[Mike_H]

You know, looking at the picture of mud all over the front, Flat Dark Earth is now a STRONG contender for a paint color!

 

[JMT]

Your rig was so nice

 

[Mike_H]

Your rig was so nice

Was?

 

[JMT]

Was?

Until you drove it into the Flat Dark Earth.

 

[bobthetj03]

Mud is teh debil!

 

[Mike_H]

Mud is teh debil!

Until you drove it into the Flat Dark Earth.

Mine wasn't nearly the worst of it. Traveled out there with my Jeep club. We were there for about 30 minutes and someone was already on the radio...asking for a pull.

About a half hour after that, I popped the cherry on my winch, pulling someone else out of that same hole, but a different spot. He was so stuck in there, that my winch was pulling me toward the hole. I even had someone on the brakes of my rig. Needed that second JK behind me as an anchor!

Finally, This poor guy tried too...Looks like its pretty stock.

Posting on FB came about 2.5 hours after we had left (2 hour drive from home) and his jeep wouldn't run anymore. They pulled the plugs, changed the oil. Posted again at about 7 PM, broke down on the side of the road. Feel bad for them. Mud and water is teh debil!

 

[JMT]

Mine wasn't nearly the worst of it. Traveled out there with my Jeep club. We were there for about 30 minutes and someone was already on the radio...asking for a pull.

View attachment 88246

About a half hour after that, I popped the cherry on my winch, pulling someone else out of that same hole, but a different spot. He was so stuck in there, that my winch was pulling me toward the hole. I even had someone on the brakes of my rig. Needed that second JK behind me as an anchor!

View attachment 88240

Finally, This poor guy tried too...Looks like its pretty stock.
View attachment 88245

Posting on FB came about 2.5 hours after we had left (2 hour drive from home) and his jeep wouldn't run anymore. They pulled the plugs, changed the oil. Posted again at about 7 PM, broke down on the side of the road. Feel bad for them. Mud and water is teh debil!

Man, that sucks. I feel bad for him too. Not cool to break down like that. I hope that engine isn’t done. What is it that every guy just has to get into at a site like that? That one mud hole. That is so guy. I’d have been in too.

 

[Mike_H]

Quick update. I've had my suspension arms installed for a couple weeks now. Wow...What a difference. Everything just feels more "solid" I guess is the best word to use. No noticeable NVH and a definite increase in ride quality. It is kinda boring work, but I do have a few pictures.

Checking axle position at full bump.

Rear's installed; notice the juxtaposition of the stuff I've rebuilt (axle, control arms) or replaced with the stuff I haven't.

Last wheeling trip, I heard the tire grabbing something. So, I took the opportunity to check my bumps again since I didn't really do it well when I swapped to these tires.

Full lock LH turn is where it gets tight...but it does clear. I think the noise I was hearing was the tires catching the stiffening flange on the factory arm. This will be the area I concentrate on if I do a DIY highline. Its easy to lift the fender up higher than factory....Getting clearance here might be tricky.

Here is a picture showing the additional clearance gained from the tubular style arm vs. Factory. This is at full lock, no washers or anything else artificially limiting the turning radius. If I did this with the factory arms, the lugs on the tire would grab the flange on the arm and make a heck of a racket.

Ready for tires! Nevermind the mess...I need to work on cleaning up after myself when I'm done for the night...Its funny, I HARP on people at work for that...but my own shop is a mess.

I also took the opportunity to install a new adjustable rear track bar. It was the one thing I left alone when I did my lift last year. I didn't like the bracket I used, as it was boxed where the bolt goes through. To make adjustments to the trackbar, you would have needed to remove both end, as the box prevented the adjustable end from lifting straight out. So, I cut the top off. Then looked at it again and decided that the nut side would be totally unsupported without the top. To fix that, I added a flange to reinforce the now unsupported side of the bracket. I bolted that flange to the axle, and Voila! Its really nice having a welder...I just wish I was better at welding. Practice makes perfect though. I gotta get some heavier steel to practice on.

When I finally get my Tummy tuck and a DC driveshaft, I'll replace this bracket with the angled one that came with my Trackbar.

 

[Mike_H]

Added some GraBars today...Well, the knock off ones from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DZYYG5B/?tag=wranglerorg-20

They were less than 30 bucks, compared to the "real" ones at approximately 85 dollars. I wish I had bought the real ones. These are functional and look fine...Installation was a giant pain in the ass though.

I ended up boring a 2" through hole and notching around the brackets to get them to fit in my A-Pillar trim. It looks OK and its balanced, side to side, but the I'm sure installation of the GraBar brand would have been better.

I was also given a rusty set of fenders to play around with. Kinda thinking on a DIY highline but I'm not sure which way to go yet. I'm not a fan of flat fenders, but I also think the AEV version looks silly from some angles. I might do a Half Highline (like raise the fenders half way) or maybe figure out a set of tube fenders that are not flat. The big key is to increase the clearance at the back of the tire...as was shown in my post before. I have plenty of clearance up top...not so much in the back.

The fenders I got. Came with the flares, side markers and T/S lenses. They are OEM Mopar fenders. The inners are actually good enough to use for some of those weld yourself flatties like @derekmac is running. So...Decisions. Getting closer to having this pig on 35's!