We've done Slick Rock a few times. It's a fun trail, and Lake Alpine has some good fishing. Nice job on the mods. the stereo mods are quite impressive! My TJ serves as toad on occasion.
My '06 TJ "Toad" Project
- Thread starter G-Whiz
- Start date
OP
Alpine is a great lake for fishing! should be awesome now with all the water it got... Where in No Cal are you in?
It helps that I use to be a Stereo installer in my younger years' sound systems have always been a passion of mine; you should hear my RV, it has 3 amps and 2 subs! hehehehe
I'm up in Lake County. If you fish bass, you've probably heard of Clearlake. I'm hoping to get that RTT for my jeep trailer soon for those more "off the grid" trips where the coach will have to stay home.
OP
Definitely know of Clear Lake, been there many a times; both visiting relatives and kayak fishing the lake (took 2nd place), we camp at Edgewater Resort..
Let me know if you think of Tepui, i've got connections!
(btw: your avatar pic is at MOAB, right?)
Most likely will be Tepui. I have family in Salinas, so thought I'd just drive down to Santa Cruz and visit them, maybe rent one for the weekend to see if I'll like it. We have a jeep run coming up May 20th at Cow Mt. OHV. You should come up and join us.
OP
Started tackling my SYE install this weekend.
First challenge Saturday was to remove the Transmission Skid plate; both bolts had seized up and the inserts spun like a top. Used a hand grinder to grind off the head, then ground down the insert head flush with the frame and tap the insert out of the hole; used a magnet to removed the dislodged insert from inside the frame. (only had a couple of hours to tinker; dang family parties get in the way... hehehe)
Here's the link on how I removed it:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-factory-skid-plate-spinning-bolt-inserts.4763
Sunday, got a late start on bring down the transfer case... but got it out in a couple of hours; took a bunch of mini power breaks, had to rest the arms, they,re not what the use to be. T-Case skid came down easy; it helps to have a motorcycle floor jack, when wrenching by yourself.
Driveshafts also came down as expected; 1/4" air rachet & 8mm deepwall socket made it a breeze. Use wire cutters to cut the "pinch" section of the band clamps on the boot and the rear D-shaft slid right out.
Removed wiring harness, breather and linkage, and secured them out of the way.
Loosed the bottom 2 nuts on the T-Case and made sure they were finger tight; these would be the last 2 to remove, and kept them on for security while removing the other 4 bolts.
The top 2 were gonna be the hardest! I assessed the best way to remove them over a ham sandwich, chips and a coke; hahaha! I could go thru the top, but that would mean removing the part of the center console/shifter and would possibly cost me more money, because now I would have a reason to get the Tuffy Center Console; so I put that on the backburner as a last resort.
Here's what I came up with:
> For the 'passenger-side top nut, I used a 9/16" crawfoot and a 36" to break the nut, and then a 9/16 stubby box-wrench to remove it.
> For the 'driver-side top nut, I used a swivel-head 3/8 driver with a short-wall 6-point socket and broke the nut free by pulling with it from on top the passenger-side of the T-Case; then use a stubby 3/8 driver to remove the nut the rest of the way..
Took the side nuts off with no problem, supported the t-case with the motorcycle jack, removed the bottom 2 nuts and wiggled the t-case free....
![20170423_162858[1].jpg](https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/20170423_162858-1-jpg.14901/ "20170423_162858[1].jpg")
Now to go mow the lawns.... have to wait until my SYE parts arrive...
First challenge Saturday was to remove the Transmission Skid plate; both bolts had seized up and the inserts spun like a top. Used a hand grinder to grind off the head, then ground down the insert head flush with the frame and tap the insert out of the hole; used a magnet to removed the dislodged insert from inside the frame. (only had a couple of hours to tinker; dang family parties get in the way... hehehe)
Here's the link on how I removed it:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-factory-skid-plate-spinning-bolt-inserts.4763
Sunday, got a late start on bring down the transfer case... but got it out in a couple of hours; took a bunch of mini power breaks, had to rest the arms, they,re not what the use to be. T-Case skid came down easy; it helps to have a motorcycle floor jack, when wrenching by yourself.
Driveshafts also came down as expected; 1/4" air rachet & 8mm deepwall socket made it a breeze. Use wire cutters to cut the "pinch" section of the band clamps on the boot and the rear D-shaft slid right out.
Removed wiring harness, breather and linkage, and secured them out of the way.
Loosed the bottom 2 nuts on the T-Case and made sure they were finger tight; these would be the last 2 to remove, and kept them on for security while removing the other 4 bolts.
The top 2 were gonna be the hardest! I assessed the best way to remove them over a ham sandwich, chips and a coke; hahaha! I could go thru the top, but that would mean removing the part of the center console/shifter and would possibly cost me more money, because now I would have a reason to get the Tuffy Center Console; so I put that on the backburner as a last resort.
Here's what I came up with:
> For the 'passenger-side top nut, I used a 9/16" crawfoot and a 36" to break the nut, and then a 9/16 stubby box-wrench to remove it.
> For the 'driver-side top nut, I used a swivel-head 3/8 driver with a short-wall 6-point socket and broke the nut free by pulling with it from on top the passenger-side of the T-Case; then use a stubby 3/8 driver to remove the nut the rest of the way..
Took the side nuts off with no problem, supported the t-case with the motorcycle jack, removed the bottom 2 nuts and wiggled the t-case free....
Now to go mow the lawns.... have to wait until my SYE parts arrive...
Ahhh, looks like a fun time. I'm fortunate that the Rubicon models come with a fix yoke, so that I didn't need a SYE. You'll be much happier once it's installed though. Definitely the right way to do things.
OP
Finished installing the SYE and new drive shaft today; plus changed out the stock TC skid to a 1/4" plate.... but ran into a snafu when trying to install the engine/tranny skid... the neglected to drive the mounting holes in the new skid.... and it's gonna be a bitch to drill thru a 1/4" plate..
OP
Under Cover Fabworks... they just informed me that I have to drill my own holes for the skid....
Not to happy about that....
Not to happy about that....
OP
Okay... after getting hi-center last weekend, think it's time to increase ground clearance alittle more....
Look for suggestion (manufacturer/model) for a 3" lift kits; with HD springs that will take to load of all the crap I carry...
exploring OME & Currie; looking for a short arm system....
Input & Feedback much appreciated before I pull the trigger..
Thanks!
Look for suggestion (manufacturer/model) for a 3" lift kits; with HD springs that will take to load of all the crap I carry...
exploring OME & Currie; looking for a short arm system....
Input & Feedback much appreciated before I pull the trigger..
Thanks!
The two recommended are going to be OME and Currie. The OME is a 2" but gives 2.5 with the hd springs from those that have it.
OP
I currently have a soft 2.5" lift; which gets compressed (rear) to below stock when I carry the Tepui Tent and camping gear.
Was looking for a solid 3" that will hold height under this load.. Not sure if OME(OMETJHKS) will do the trick and be able to stuff 33s under the fender....
Still researching Currie; but looks like they only have 4" for the 06' TJ
What is a close 3rd in the world of lifts for a TJ?
Was looking for a solid 3" that will hold height under this load.. Not sure if OME(OMETJHKS) will do the trick and be able to stuff 33s under the fender....
Still researching Currie; but looks like they only have 4" for the 06' TJ
What is a close 3rd in the world of lifts for a TJ?
For 33's you are looking at 4" to comfortably clear and have good articulation. You could do the ome, 1" spacer, and a 1" body lift. On a budget Zone off road has a 4.25 which is a susp and bl combo.
OP
Not a fan of spacers or BLK...
4" lift is a little higher than I was thinking; if 33s are tight fit, I'll probably max out at 32s.... (and have a lot of good armor...)
Any opinion on "Rock Krawler" lifts?
4" lift is a little higher than I was thinking; if 33s are tight fit, I'll probably max out at 32s.... (and have a lot of good armor...)
Any opinion on "Rock Krawler" lifts?
OP
Any opinions on Rancho Lift kits?
http://www.morris4x4center.com/rancho-sport-suspension-body-lift-kit-rs-6501-xlk.html
Was thinking of the 3.5 Rancho Lift vs OME 2" HD Lift.
Reason being, hopefully the added weight of accessories will drop the 3.5" down to 3"; versus gambling on the OMETJHKs holding the height at 2"...
http://www.morris4x4center.com/rancho-sport-suspension-body-lift-kit-rs-6501-xlk.html
Was thinking of the 3.5 Rancho Lift vs OME 2" HD Lift.
Reason being, hopefully the added weight of accessories will drop the 3.5" down to 3"; versus gambling on the OMETJHKs holding the height at 2"...
@Jerry Bransford has a good story about poly bushings in control arms ripping off the brackets due to the lack of flexibility with them. At a minimum you would want rubber with that style of arm and preferably an articulating joint.