A Story of Indecision and Frivolous Spending
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
OP
This has crossed my mind as well. I'm not entirely sure though.
All of this could be solved if the torsion bar the Antirock uses was simply 1.5" longer. Then you could just drill a hole for it to go through into the frame, and you wouldn't have to trim the bumper at all.
I wouldn't be confident in them anymore. It looks like the bottom of the bumper would peel away.
Then our tires would rub the lever arm more than they might already do. It's a vicious circle!
OP
I wouldn't be confident in them anymore. It looks like the bottom of the bumper would peel away.
Then our tires would rub the lever arm more than they might already do. It's a vicious circle!
I'm not sure mine would with the 1.25" wheel spacers. I think I've got plenty of room... I could be wrong though!
I've long thought about ditching this bumper for something more Antirock friendly (and with tow points), but given the rarity of these bumpers, I'm not sure I could do it. Not to mention I can't find another bumper out there that I actually like the look of.
Not too much, just a little more off the front. I marked up the image to show the area causing contact. It also won't let the bumper go back far enough with the arms attached to get the bolts in.
OP
Do you think the lower tow points are unsafe to use now that you've removed that much material? @jjvw brought that up, and it has me wondering.
I think you’ve stated multiple times that your interest is in exploring on fire roads and overlanding. Have you considered just keeping the JKS disconnects?
OP
Yes, I have indeed. As the kids get older though, we are going to venture to places like Moab. That won't be for a while, but it's coming eventually!
This same question crossed my mind before I began cutting and I lean towards the answer being yes. With that said I’ve actually thought about having a “box” of plate steel made that would be raised off the bumper a half inch or so and welded in place to reinforce those areas and clear the arms, or just not pull using those lower tow points. My Warn 9.5ti will be sitting on top which would be my preferred recovery method.
OP
Yep, that sounds like a decent idea. I always use soft shackles, but without those tow recovery points on the bumper, I'm not entirely sure where the next best place would be. I suppose I could cut them off and have some tow points welded directly to the frame under the bumper?
OP
Why do you say that? I'm genuinely curious. It's stubby and doesn't hang down low at all (with the exception of those recovery points).
If that is the only issue, It wouldn't be hard to get a machine shop to make you a piece that was simply 1.5" longer. If you think that would fix your problem, it is worth a shot. Probably wouldn't be that expensive either. Not sure if there are other barriers that would prevent you from doing that. I've never had to deal with that myself.
All I can see is a picture of the side. Based on that, the recovery points hang too low like you said, the "tube bumpers" look like they'd bend or crack off where they come off the metal (they need gusseting or be removed).
I would not trust those tow points after removing material like that.
I would not trust those tow points after removing material like that.
OP
Yes, I'm sure I could find a machine shop to do it possibly, but I'm not sure if that would end up costing an absurd amount of money and therefore become cost prohibitive. Ultimately I think going through all that hassle just to accommodate a bumper would be one of those points where I'd really need to evaluate my priorities.
I looked at the bumper last night, and I agree, those recovery points no longer look to be safe if I was to remove that much material.
The easiest way to get that antirock on is to buy a new bumper. There are so many bumpers online you'll definitely find one you like. I'm sure selling that front bumper would buy you almost any bumper you want.
But if you do like your current bumper, I would contact some machine shops to see what it would cost to get a new bar made. Currie sells all sorts of lengths and diameters online, maybe you could ask them if they could make you one thats a bit longer (although that seems a bit unlikely). It might be cost prohibitive in the end, but only one way to find out!
OP
Yep, I've considered this too. That bumper is mint... I paid $700 for it. If I sold it, I could get what I paid for it and get a new bumper and probably an Antirock to boot. I just haven't been able to find any bumpers (yet) that I really liked the look of to be honest.
Good point about Currie. With as much stuff as the manufacture, it wouldn't shock me if they'd be willing to make a Antirock torsion bar with a slightly longer length.
I doubt many machine shops have the correct spring steel bar. Perhaps special order but I wouldn't be surprised if Currie tempers that themselves along with their shafts. For the right price Currie will make you any length you want.
You're also going to need to extend the mount off the frame by that much wider so that the delrin bushing butts against the arm.
For a clean, no nonsense front bumper, I kinda like Motobilt's design.
https://www.motobilt.com/jeep-yj-tj-competition-front-bumper.html
https://www.motobilt.com/jeep-yj-tj-competition-front-bumper.html
OP
Nice, that doesn't look too shabby. I've found that while I don't prefer full-width bumpers, I also don't like stubbies. I think I prefer a mid-width, which is one of the reasons this AEV bumper looks so good.