My First Jeep - Build Plans

savage250

savage250

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Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2017
Messages
18
Location
Alberta
Hey, I'm new to the forum and to Jeeps. Just bought my first TJ. It's a 2002, 4.0, standard, Sport. Has 104,000km on it (65k miles) and no rust anywhere except surface rust on the frame. I've been reading on this forum continuously since I bought and thought I would post my build plans here. My main plan for the jeep is for exploring trails and for hunting / fishing. Also to have a project to work on with my son who is 10. I have already booked us in for the Montana Jeep Jamboree... even though it's expensive I've always wanted to go to one and now I have a Jeep. Of course I'd like to find some local trails to explore as well.

Here is how it was when I picked it up:
$_59 (2).JPG

$_59 (4).JPG

$_59 (5).JPG

After I added the 31" Duratracs
20171227_143500.jpg


Already done:
  • Duratrac 31" tires
  • New steering gearbox (old one was leaking bad)
  • Serviced rear differential
  • New XP985 spark plugs
  • Knockoff LED headlights (way better than factory)
  • JVC Marine stereo and new Kicker speakers / subwoofer
Current parts in my garage:
  • OME 2" HD Lift w/ OME Shocks & Steering stabilizer & TC drop
  • Road Armor front bumper
  • WARN M8000 winch w/synthetic line
  • (2) 6" LED light bars for front bumper
  • Smittybilt XRC rear bumper
  • Body Armor Side Guards
  • CB Radio w/ 2ft FireStik antenna
  • All remaining fluids to service

Parts yet to go:
  • I'd like to add a roof rack eventually and perhaps on overland tent
  • Hitch mounted cargo carrier for my deer kills in the fall
  • Super 35 in the rear, regear both to 4.10 or 4.56... and E-Locker front and rear
  • Maybe a 1" body lift which would include the Saavy transfer case shifter
  • Some armor for underneath.. the engine anyway.
  • Other things I learn about on here
 
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It's amazing how much of a difference tires alone makes in regards to looks. Yours is a perfect example with those before and after photos.

I like your plans though, they're very similar to mine! Keeping it mild, which in my opinion looks good and will perform very well too.
 
Good start with your lists, and this forum never fails to get us all infected with the "itch" virus...

Welcome aboard, and you may proceed sir!

We'll watch your back.
 
Perfect plan, very similar to my build, workin my way on to phase 3. Nice and great.
 
I'm hoping to get started on installing the OME lift this weekend. I've never done one before but it doesn't look too bad. Any quick tips would be appreciated.

Also, do I need an alignment after I install it?
 
Well I didn't get to the lift this weekend but I did install my front bumper and winch. Also got the back bumper on but have hit a bit of a snag with the fuel tank. I had just lowered it an inch or so to get access to the bolts, but I didn't notice that the trailer receiver on the new bumper sticks in past the edge of the skid plate... so I can't raise it back into position. Looks like I will have to drop the tank now to trim the skid plate to clear. Those fuel lines look to be a bit tough to reach. On one of them I can see the normal quick connect fitting (do I need the special fuel line tool to release it, or does you just squeeze to release like some of the videos I've seen)? The other line is a hard line with a rubber hose pushed on to it; do I just pull the rubber hose off or is there another connection on the tank? I've never dropped a tank before.

On the upside, having the tank out will allow me to repaint the skid plate and give better access to the rear shocks for the lift.
 
Also, I know the OME kit came with a track bar relocation bracket for the rear but not for the front. Am I OK to run it like this for awhile or do I need to get an adjustable track bar for the front right away?
 
savage250 said:
I'm hoping to get started on installing the OME lift this weekend. I've never done one before but it doesn't look too bad. Any quick tips would be appreciated. Also, do I need an alignment after I install it?
Click to expand...

One thing I would suggest is to forego the transfer case skid drop spacers. Try it without those. No vibrations, no need to drop the skid and put those on.

You pretty much can only do a toe-in as far as alignment on a TJ, and it's so simple to do yourself, you would kick yourself if you took it to an alignment shop. Instructions here:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-align-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.85/

savage250 said:
Also, I know the OME kit came with a track bar relocation bracket for the rear but not for the front. Am I OK to run it like this for awhile or do I need to get an adjustable track bar for the front right away?
Click to expand...

The front, for some reason, never seems to get very far off with that small of a lift. I think that's why OME does not provide any adjustment for the front. The rear, on the other hand, will push a bit more to the passenger side, hence the bracket. Again, you might want to skip the bracket and see if it seems too far off for your taste. If it is, you can always put the bracket on later. That being said, you might want to do everything at once while you are under there, depending on how OCD you are o_O...

I don't have any track bar adjustment on the front, and went with an adjustable rear track bar rather than use the bracket. I have the same lift, light duty. I'm not sure if you have the light duty or heavy duty springs, but that shouldn't make a difference in whether you need track bar adjustment.

Great color TJ by the way. How come the fender flares are faded in one photo, and look painted in another?
 
Thanks for the reply. Maybe I will install first and see how far off the axle goes. First I have to get the fuel tank down to trim the skid plate. Any tips on disconnecting the fuel lines so I don't break a fitting on the pump?

The flares are quite faded... the first pictures were taken by the seller and I think immediately after it came out of a car wash so they are wet. I have tried a "restore to black" product with little success... I guess I will just paint them or maybe spray with a bed liner type of product.
 
Those fuel line disconnects are a PITA. There is a little plastic clip that you have to pull to disconnect the fitting, and 9 times out of 10, that clip breaks, so I suggest getting some spares in case that happens. That other hose, I believe, connects to a 90* tee in the top of the tank. Use caution pulling the hose as that tee could possibly break. Try taking a little WD40 to the hose and tee fitting and try rotating the hose back and forth first before pulling on it.

The rear TB bracket not only helps re-center the rear axle, but also puts the TB back to it's factory geometry. Having the fuel tank removed will help you a ton for installing the relocation bracket, so I'd install it while you have the tank out. When I did my lift, my front axle was off center about 5/8". I ran with it like that for 3 years before finally getting an adjustable TB, so it's not an urgent priority unless it just bugs you.
 
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Is the little plastic clip you are referring to on the tank (at the pump) or the connection that you can see about a foot away from the tank? Is there enough flex in those lines to drop the tank down quite low to access the top of the pump or do you need to do it blind?
 
savage250 said:
Is the little plastic clip you are referring to on the tank (at the pump) or the connection that you can see about a foot away from the tank? Is there enough flex in those lines to drop the tank down quite low to access the top of the pump or do you need to do it blind?
Click to expand...

I'm trying to remember since it's been a while since I've had my tank dropped, but I believe the clip is on the disconnect fitting that's on the hard line bolted to the frame. You should has enough slack to drop the tank enough to access the hoses on the top. Just pay attention to that feed hose as you are lowering it.
 
Thanks... Glad to know I don't need those special fuel line tools. Would hate to waste time fighting with it only to find out that I needed the other tool anyway.
 
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Hey, one other thing I've been wondering after all of my reading here... when I re-gear do I go 4.10 or 4.56? I have 31" tires now and I haven't done much wheeling at all yet... so I don't know if I'll ever want to go to 33's or not. I have read where some of you guys did go the 33 route and then thought it was a bit of a waste and wished you had stayed at 31 so I'm not sure what I would do. My feeling is I should over gear if anything and go for the 4.56 even if If I stay with 31's but will it be too much RPM on the highway?
 
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