My turn to post a “won’t start” thread!

[Frank and Rhonda]

Rhonda, my love, won’t start.
She’s a 2002 manual 4.0
She’s been horribly neglected the last few years due to reasons and I’m trying to make up for that now.

Full story with all possibly relevant details:

Busted brake line and had to leave her where she was. Got towed. Mechanic at the yard she was towed to fixed the brake line but said he was having trouble starting her sometimes. When he adjusted the steering wheel height she would start. When I went to pick her up she started fine. The following weeks she sometimes started sometimes wouldn’t. At first adjusting the steering column would help, then it didn’t. Tapping on starter relays worked sometimes then didn’t. Then she got left in a public parking garage out of the elements for almost 2 years. Just got her home a few days ago. Changed the oil, transmission fluid, new battery, fresh gas, now to work on the starting issue.
Turn the key to on and the dash lights up, beeps and all that, lights work, wipers only work in ACC position, not in RUN posotion. Turn the key to start and there is a single click coming from behind the glove box, the fuse panel I think. Definitely not from the relays in the engine bay, definitely not from the starter. Occasionally, when the key is turned to start position the dash lights will go off for a few seconds before coming back on.
The check engine light is also on but when I try to retrieve codes it just says “done.” I really don’t want to have to take her to a shop, and would appreciate any input you’re willing to give.

Thanks guys,
Frank and Rhonda

 

[macleanflood]

Well, you've got two year old crap gas in the tank. Did you hear the fuel pump cycle?

If you turn the key to the run position do you get dash lights, headlights?

With the key on start do you get 12v to the little post on the starter?

If you jumper the little post to the big battery post does it crank?

Battery voltage?

Clean the battery terminals, grounds?

Pull the relays and check for corrosion.

-Mac

 

[Frank and Rhonda]

Thanks Mac!
Fresh gas.
I do hear the fuel pump.
Dash lights yes.
Head lights yes.
No voltage at all to the little post on the starter with the key turned to start.
Battery voltage 12.5
Battery posts clean

I’ll try a jumper from the battery to the little post. That will tell me if the starter is good, right?

But no voltage to little post on the starter still means another issue, and that could be the relays and/or corrosion?

Thanks again!

 

[macleanflood]

Yes that should tell you if the starter is good.

No voltage on the little post at crank means an ASD relay issue.

But it should start by jumpering the posts.

If it cranks but doesn't fire, check fuel pressure or spray something flammable in the throttle body.

You've got coil on plugs so it's a little more difficult to check for spark.

-Mac

 

[LittleGiant]

I’m not nearly as good as Mac, but what initially got my attention was when you said that adjusting the steering column would make it start or not. That makes me think you have a wiring issue. There’s a harness in the steering column. Call me crazy, but there should be no reason why adjusting that would affect anything, but I could be wrong. If so, tell me

I’ve seen rodents get into places and chew things apart. Chewed my brothers Toyota main harness apart and cost him $2K to fix.

Worth looking into if it sat for 2 years. Nothing good comes from that.

 

[hear]

If adjusting the column helped, it would suggest a wiring problem in that general area. That it no longer helps suggest that the problem got bad enough that wiggling things around no longer allows for a good enough connection to be made. I would definitely start a visual inspection there.

 

[macleanflood]

Here's a good read for what to expect around the steering wheel...my theory is you have a bad ground and adjusting the column allows the ignition switch to ground through the column allowing intermittent start. You fix/clean the grounds under each speaker bezel, driver's kick panel, firewall between the battery and valve cover and battery terminals and you might fix that ground.

Thread 'Wells Vehicle Electronics (WVE) Multi-function Switch & Connector'

Jul 29, 2023

Like many others, my multi-function switch had begun to act up. My fog lights were not turning on by themselves, but if I was driving with the lights on and hit a good bump, I would get a long series of warning beeps. No engine light or anything else, just 10+ beeps. The first time it happened was a little wild looking for the reason for the noise, but I researched here and found how this is a problem with our turn switch, its connector, or both.

I recently figured out I could cancel the beeping if I lifted the turn signal like I was about to make a right turn. However, not wanting to...

• Fulton_Hogan
• multifunction switch multifunction switch connector turn signal turn signal lever wells vehicle electronics wve
• Replies: 28
• Forum: TJ General Discussion

• 

-Mac

 

[Limestone]

I'd definitely try jumping the posts on the starter solenoid to try and rule that out. It's easy and quick to do. If that works, continue looking else where as stated above.

Always try the simplest, easiest stuff first.

 

[Frank and Rhonda]

I really appreciate all the information and advice. Haven’t had time to put it to use yet, but hopefully will soon. I just got home from work and my wife told me while I was gone the horn turned on and wouldn’t stop until she went out and banged on the steering wheel. Going to go jump the starter now and check some connections.

 

[KennethS]

Well that is a sign there's a wiring issue in the steering column.

 

[Frank and Rhonda]

Starter is good. Ignition switch is corroded.

 

[LittleGiant]

Starter is good. Ignition switch is corroded.View attachment 587941View attachment 587942View attachment 587943

That’s a good catch. Still wondering if that’s the only issue.

About a month ago my horn just started going on and wouldn’t stop until I disconnected the battery. My horn relay was bad. $20 later, problem solved. Might be worth checking if that horn goes crazy again on you.

Hopefully that’s the only issue, that’s a very cheap way to fix an issue on the TJ, congrats haha

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

I really appreciate all the information and advice. Haven’t had time to put it to use yet, but hopefully will soon. I just got home from work and my wife told me while I was gone the horn turned on and wouldn’t stop until she went out and banged on the steering wheel. Going to go jump the starter now and check some connections.

So she banged on the steering wheel until the horn stopped. Very lady like because that's what ladys do to fix stuff.

Now I gotta ask the important question, did you try to start it before you jumped the starter and checked some connections?

I know trying to start it would be the first thing I did even though the Jeep actually starting at that point would have been totally irrelevant to the real problem.

 

[Frank and Rhonda]

She starts! New ignition switch. Took her around the block and she sputtered out and died right as I was getting back to my house. I had put a 2 gallon can of fresh gas in her. Went like 1,000 feet max. Definitely not 2 gallons worth. Just in case, I went and put another 2 gallons in. Doing the same thing. Acting like she’s out of gas. Now she’s barely turning over. This whole time my gas gauge has been on empty. In fact when I put the first 2 gallons in it showed more empty than before. So I was thinking definitely a bad gauge. This wouldn’t cause her to act like she’s out of gas though, right? Another possibility: when I had her towed to my house, the gauge said empty so I assumed 2 gallons of good gas on top of the dregs in there should be fine. But if the gauge was bad maybe there’s a full tank of bad gas that I put 4 gallons of good gas on. But still she ran really well around the block. My next move was going to be drop the tank and take a look at the fuel filter. But wanted to see if you guys think that’s a good next move or if there is a better place to start.

 

[macleanflood]

Pressure gauge but you're probably dropping the tank anyways... depending on what you find you might want to run air through the hard fuel line from the engine back while it's disconnected. Fuel rail too. Helps to blow it out on a white paper towel to see what you get out.

-Mac

 

[Frank and Rhonda]

Thanks for that suggestion. I went and rented a pressure gauge, nothing and couldn’t hear fuel pump. Swapped the relay with one I know works, still nothing. Now I’ll try disconnecting the line and blowing it out. I’m not with it now and it may be apparent when I look at it, but can I do that without dropping the tank? Or do you think I should just go ahead and do it and check everything?

 

[macleanflood]

It'll be easier to blow out with the tank dropped and I'm 90 percent sure it's the pump assembly. Blowing out the line is just insurance.

-Mac

P.S. Now's a great time for a body lift and motor mount lift...can cut an inch off your fuel tank skid and bring everything up. =)

 

[Frank and Rhonda]

New ignition switch.
New fuel pump.
She’s good to go.
As tempted as I was, I didn’t do a body lift.
Thank you all for helping, especially you Mac for pretty much guiding me through it. I really appreciate it. For more than just the sentimental value. My truck was starting to really fall apart and I was going to be without a vehicle if I couldn’t get my jeep running.

 

[Coadster32]

Great to hear you got it going again.

I am just seeing this thread now after the problem has been solved. I do have a somewhat relevant question though.

If the ignition switch is in question, you jump the starter and it fires up and runs....is there a possibility that the ignition switch might not be able to turn off the vehicle?