Wow, can't believe it's been a year (10/8/22) since I put the Savvy sliders on! To recap, when I did my Savvy rockers, I had to remove the fender flares to properly install them. Since I was going through the effort to paint the step portion of the sliders, I figured I would do the fender flares since I already had them off. I wanted to do something that lasted, protected the bases and didn't fade. These were done exactly a year ago, and look as good as they did when I finished them up! This goes for the Savvy sliders as well. They have definitely seen some use out on the trail and you can probably see some of the impact points where certain flares have taken some hits, but I would still rate the finish a 9/10. As I'll mention below, the clear coat is a game changer and has held up really well to the AZ sun and anything they've encountered off road.
This is the link to my thread on how I painted the, but I'll recap here.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/2005-rubicon-a-rubi-brother.55498/post-1204537
I did my normal routine with prep, primer, and base. I used Rustoleum 2 in 1 Primer and Filler, ACE Rust Stop Satin Enamel, and planned to finish it off with Rustoleum 2X Satin Clear. For Sanding, I used a 400 grit sanding sponge to wet sand the flares and smooth them out all around. It was enough to clean up the inperfections.
Now let me just say, clear coat is a game changer if you're doing rattle can paint jobs, even for trim. I only used the clear for added scratch/UV protection and it completely transformed the finish.
I’ve never been good at getting neat finishes with rattle cans, unless it’s SEM. They’re usually 90% there, but I always seem to run into issues with faintly seeing my lines/passes. The same was the issue when I applied the base coat to all of these parts. It was splotchy and didn’t lay down even, making it really difficult to get it evenly “wet” all around. The base came out pretty good, but it wasn’t perfect. In hindsight I should have gotten pictures of what I mean as examples but here we are. I followed the flash time procedure and once I felt it was good enough, I added the clear.
I made my first few passes and was absolutely blown away at how it went on. The best way I can describe it is like when someone gets shot on TV and you see the blood spread on their shirt. The clear laid down in that manner where you could see the initial impact, then watch it flatten and spread (atomize) over the surface. Overlapping lines was very simple as you could clearly see how it blended, spread, and atomized. It also made any wet/dry areas in the base coat completely disappear. Once the first coat was down, I waited a minute or two for it to cure a tad and then sprayed a second coat with the same process; not any lighter or heavier. I had a super glossy coat by the end and while I knew it was wet, I was afraid I had sprayed it on too heavy, but after some drying it turned out just right.
I let the fender flares and rails cure for 24 hours just to be safe. And the results were phenomenal. I only took one picture of the clear right after it was sprayed, and while glossy, you can see how even it looks.
Below is another flare that I had finished which had been drying for about an hour at the point of the photo above. This dried in the satin finish I was hoping for, and the base was still even looking.
Here are some pictures of the rears and the rails. The rears are in rough shape with lots of scratches and rock pits, but considering these flares are gonna see abuse it didn’t try to clean them up. The rails turned out great. I had a couple small runs on the rears and rails as I was afraid of not being close enough, but I quickly realized I needed to add more distance and that helped a lot. I used these lessons learned on the front flares and I think they turned out perfect.
Rears and rails.
The big key here as I said before was the clear. I think it atomized with whatever splotchy areas I was dealing with on the base, and evened it out. I had full coverage in terms of color, there were just “wetter” areas than others. Following the flash time for the base allowed the clear to bond with it. I was amazed at the difference, and now I won’t do any other trim parts without clear.
Fast forward to today which is 10/8/23, I stand by the statement above. In short, these have held up well and were well worth the effort to prep and paint. Having done it once and understanding how the clear works with the base, I would have no issue using this same method with other parts that need painting with rattle cans. Anyways, just wanted to share my results since it's already been a year. I'm happy with how they've held up.
This is the link to my thread on how I painted the, but I'll recap here.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/2005-rubicon-a-rubi-brother.55498/post-1204537
I did my normal routine with prep, primer, and base. I used Rustoleum 2 in 1 Primer and Filler, ACE Rust Stop Satin Enamel, and planned to finish it off with Rustoleum 2X Satin Clear. For Sanding, I used a 400 grit sanding sponge to wet sand the flares and smooth them out all around. It was enough to clean up the inperfections.
Now let me just say, clear coat is a game changer if you're doing rattle can paint jobs, even for trim. I only used the clear for added scratch/UV protection and it completely transformed the finish.
I’ve never been good at getting neat finishes with rattle cans, unless it’s SEM. They’re usually 90% there, but I always seem to run into issues with faintly seeing my lines/passes. The same was the issue when I applied the base coat to all of these parts. It was splotchy and didn’t lay down even, making it really difficult to get it evenly “wet” all around. The base came out pretty good, but it wasn’t perfect. In hindsight I should have gotten pictures of what I mean as examples but here we are. I followed the flash time procedure and once I felt it was good enough, I added the clear.
I made my first few passes and was absolutely blown away at how it went on. The best way I can describe it is like when someone gets shot on TV and you see the blood spread on their shirt. The clear laid down in that manner where you could see the initial impact, then watch it flatten and spread (atomize) over the surface. Overlapping lines was very simple as you could clearly see how it blended, spread, and atomized. It also made any wet/dry areas in the base coat completely disappear. Once the first coat was down, I waited a minute or two for it to cure a tad and then sprayed a second coat with the same process; not any lighter or heavier. I had a super glossy coat by the end and while I knew it was wet, I was afraid I had sprayed it on too heavy, but after some drying it turned out just right.
I let the fender flares and rails cure for 24 hours just to be safe. And the results were phenomenal. I only took one picture of the clear right after it was sprayed, and while glossy, you can see how even it looks.
Below is another flare that I had finished which had been drying for about an hour at the point of the photo above. This dried in the satin finish I was hoping for, and the base was still even looking.
Here are some pictures of the rears and the rails. The rears are in rough shape with lots of scratches and rock pits, but considering these flares are gonna see abuse it didn’t try to clean them up. The rails turned out great. I had a couple small runs on the rears and rails as I was afraid of not being close enough, but I quickly realized I needed to add more distance and that helped a lot. I used these lessons learned on the front flares and I think they turned out perfect.
Rears and rails.
The big key here as I said before was the clear. I think it atomized with whatever splotchy areas I was dealing with on the base, and evened it out. I had full coverage in terms of color, there were just “wetter” areas than others. Following the flash time for the base allowed the clear to bond with it. I was amazed at the difference, and now I won’t do any other trim parts without clear.
Fast forward to today which is 10/8/23, I stand by the statement above. In short, these have held up well and were well worth the effort to prep and paint. Having done it once and understanding how the clear works with the base, I would have no issue using this same method with other parts that need painting with rattle cans. Anyways, just wanted to share my results since it's already been a year. I'm happy with how they've held up.