Nashville TJ's Build - Continued

NashvilleTJ said:
Thanks Blackjack, sounds like a good idea. I’ll see if I can pull the number. Do the larger hubs use the same spindle? I’m also not sure what axles are under there, I’ll have to check that as well.

Good insight on the bushings - when I pulled it apart today they were worn through on one side.
Click to expand...

Sorry I should have been more specific. The "beam" is the tube and spindles. They are the same so swapping hubs is not to hard to do. You have 5200# axle and a closeup of the hub will let me ID them for you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NashvilleTJ and Wildman
Blackjack said:
Sorry I should have been more specific. The "beam" is the tube and spindles. They are the same so swapping hubs is not to hard to do. You have 5200# axle and a closeup of the hub will let me ID them for you.
Click to expand...

Here is the hub. Hopefully that helps.

IMG_7440.JPG


And here is the equalizer. Tough to read. On the other side, all it says is "China." Oops...

IMG_7444.JPG
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Fouledplugs
Well those are Lippert 5200 axles with ez lube. So I will get the bad out of the way first, Lippert beams use thinner tube compared to Dexter. We have seen new trailers not make it up the Alcan without bending the beams. And with your tire failure I would say that while the shackles failing had something to do with it I would check the beams for alignment as well. That being said, you can can put 8 lug hubs on to get better rubber but I would not try to add any extra spring capacity with going with new beams. I am working on PNs for the suspension upgrade parts and will try to get that up here later.
 
  • Like
  • Wow
Reactions: Fouledplugs, Wildman, Irun and 1 other person
Blackjack said:
Well those are Lippert 5200 axles with ez lube. So I will get the bad out of the way first, Lippert beams use thinner tube compared to Dexter. We have seen new trailers not make it up the Alcan without bending the beams. And with your tire failure I would say that while the shackles failing had something to do with it I would check the beams for alignment as well. That being said, you can can put 8 lug hubs on to get better rubber but I would not try to add any extra spring capacity with going with new beams. I am working on PNs for the suspension upgrade parts and will try to get that up here later.
Click to expand...
This is why this Jeep forum is like no other. People with true knowledge, that are willing to help out others! (y)
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: IPerkWVU, TJosh02, jesseshoots and 2 others
NashvilleTJ said:
Thanks Black. Would a better route be to just swap the entire axle assembly?
Click to expand...
Well you are in a better part of the country than I for getting better prices for this kind of stuff. Shipping kills us up here especially when it comes to stuff like trailer axles so we tend to run stuff until it is dead before replacing it. Unless your springs are showing excessive wear I would just look into a couple of 6k Dexter complete axles and a HD suspension kit PN k71-449-00. That would give you 8 lug hubs with 1/2 studs and the suspension kit gives you new equalizers, HD shackles, bronze bushings for the equalizers and leaf springs as well as wet bolts so you can lube the bushings.

You could also just do the suspension kit and 8 lug hubs on your existing and run it until the beams start giving you trouble. The parts are all interchangeable so you could just do it piecemeal over time if you wanted to.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TJosh02, TJ Starting, NashvilleTJ and 4 others
Blackjack said:
Well you are in a better part of the country than I for getting better prices for this kind of stuff. Shipping kills us up here especially when it comes to stuff like trailer axles so we tend to run stuff until it is dead before replacing it. Unless your springs are showing excessive wear I would just look into a couple of 6k Dexter complete axles and a HD suspension kit PN k71-449-00. That would give you 8 lug hubs with 1/2 studs and the suspension kit gives you new equalizers, HD shackles, bronze bushings for the equalizers and leaf springs as well as wet bolts so you can lube the bushings.

You could also just do the suspension kit and 8 lug hubs on your existing and run it until the beams start giving you trouble. The parts are all interchangeable so you could just do it piecemeal over time if you wanted to.
Click to expand...
Thanks again Black. I appreciate the time you took to give me the advice.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman and Blackjack
Blackjack said:
Let me know which way you are thinking of going and I can help round up some part number to have when you go shopping.
Click to expand...
Hey @Blackjack, I went ahead and ordered the HD suspension kit you recommended. Trailer parts superstore had it for $160 + shipping. Cheapest I found. Still considering hubs and axles.

When I replaced the shackles with the thicker steel, I saw that the bushings were trashed as well, so that was even more reason to pull this trigger.

Thanks again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blackjack and Wildman
One thing you may also want to consider when it comes to tires is using a load range E (better to have more) and watch the speed rating of the tire. A lot of trailer tires are only rated for 65 MPH.
 
Tealj6 said:
One thing you may also want to consider when it comes to tires is using a load range E (better to have more) and watch the speed rating of the tire. A lot of trailer tires are only rated for 65 MPH.
Click to expand...
Thanks. The tires I run are 15" Goodyear Endurance, load range E (2,830 lbs) with a speed rating of N (87mph). I do still think running at close to that, at something close to the capacity, was to blame. Between the Jeep, the trailer, and the big tool box, my guess is I'm pushing a little over 9,000 pounds. It's a 10,000 pound trailer, so that should work. Should.

I'm considered moving to an 8 lug hub so I can run a larger, higher capacity tire. My problem is that when I built the drive over fenders, I kept them as low as I could. A tire too much larger will hit the fender without modifying it (a big deal), or raising the trailer (less of a big deal).

Trailer - Drive Over Fenders - 10-29-2017 215.JPG



Or I could just drive slower...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01, B00mb00m and Wildman
NashvilleTJ said:
Thanks. The tires I run are 15" Goodyear Endurance, load range E (2,830 lbs) with a speed rating of N (87mph). I do still think running at close to that, at something close to the capacity, was to blame. Between the Jeep, the trailer, and the big tool box, my guess is I'm pushing a little over 9,000 pounds. It's a 10,000 pound trailer, so that should work. Should.

I'm considered moving to an 8 lug hub so I can run a larger, higher capacity tire. My problem is that when I built the drive over fenders, I kept them as low as I could. A tire too much larger will hit the fender without modifying it (a big deal), or raising the trailer (less of a big deal).

View attachment 253452


Or I could just drive slower...
Click to expand...
OK, so you've basically got the best of what you can get in a 15" tire. The next step would seem to be going to 16" and 8 lug. I run the same size and rating and my Jeep is of similar size, but my trailer is aluminum. I've had good luck running these tires, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C89PC4W/?tag=wranglerorg-20, 2833 lb rating, load range E, but only L speed rating (75 mph), which is fine for me as I keep my speed below this. Yes, driving slower is definitely easier on tires (and diesel).
 
  • Like
Reactions: NashvilleTJ
Top Bottom
Back