Nashville TJ's Build - Continued

It's not the most optimal set-up but it's not a wrong sub for this choice, just not the best choice. The Kicker 4 ohm, wired parallel would be ideal, or their 1ohm wired in series.

I would recommend wiring the Bazooka in series so the Bazooka is 4ohm.

If you ever upgrade this would be a good choice.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648CT674/Kicker-48CWRT674.html
By the way, amazing job on the install!
Great. That's what I will do. Thanks so much for the feedback.
 
Today I started into the rest of the wiring for the amplifier. First, pull the bezel and yank out the stereo to get access to the wiring harness.

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I spent a bunch of time trying to decide whether or not to run new wiring to the main speakers. Running new wires and leaving the factory harness intact would have allowed me to more easily go back to stock if I ever needed to do so.

Ultimately, I decided not to because it would have been a royal pain to do the rear. My cage is fully padded and covered, and to pull new wire back there would have meant pulling all the covers, padding, and about 6 miles of black tape - and then putting it all back. @skrelnik's advice was that that stock wiring would work fine, so, I took the easy way out. Thanks dude.

I pulled out the FSM, identified the eight wires for the main speakers, and cut into the harness. I needed to extend those wires from behind the head unit over to the location of the amp. I solder spliced and heat shrank some 18 gauge speaker wire, which did the trick. After labeling those wires, I heat shrink'd the cut wires coming out of the connector.

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That done, I added the RCA cables I needed for the pre-amp connection to the amp, and labeled those as well.

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After routing all the new wires back to the amp location, I stuffed it all back in place.

Jeep - Stereo Amp 3 - 1-20-2022 (15).JPG


Notice I have not yet put the bezel back in place - I'm not quite that confident in my wring abilities....
 
Next up was to tackle the sub. First step - pull the console. I always use Weatherpack connectors when I need something to be removeable, and the console is no exception. I have a winch controlled mounted in the front, and that is that second connector. I'll add a connector for the new sub wire as well.

Jeep - Stereo Amp 3 - 1-20-2022 (17).JPG


I pulled apart the console to get to the sub, and I can't imagine why that sub needs so many wires, and a 12 pin connector!

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Oh yeah, that's it...

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That goes as well. Good riddense. Anyway, I rewired the sub in series as @skrelnik recommended. This should give me 4 ohms resistance. But again, not trusting my wiring abilities I pulled out the multi-meter. 3.8 ohms - so I'm good.

Jeep - Stereo Amp 3 - 1-20-2022 (25).JPG
 
Tomorrow I'll complete the final connections to the amplifier, mount the amp in its new home, and test it all out.

Meanwhile, I pulled the crate off of the new toy. I'll miss my big old Laguna, but I'll get over it...:)

Jeep - Stereo Amp 3 - 1-20-2022 (28).JPG


This thing is a beast. It was too tall to bring into the shop through the overhead door. I had to get my neighbor to come over and help me tip it over at an angle and drag it in. Which was no small feat as it was 628 pounds sitting on the pallet.
 
Tomorrow I'll complete the final connections to the amplifier, mount the amp in its new home, and test it all out.

Meanwhile, I pulled the crate off of the new toy. I'll miss my big old Laguna, but I'll get over it...:)

View attachment 303962

This thing is a beast. It was too tall to bring into the shop through the overhead door. I had to get my neighbor to come over and help me tip it over at an angle and drag it in. Which was no small feat as it was 628 pounds sitting on the pallet.
Work of art! You will love it. The weight is one of the things that makes it do what it does well.
 
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Tomorrow I'll complete the final connections to the amplifier, mount the amp in its new home, and test it all out.

Meanwhile, I pulled the crate off of the new toy. I'll miss my big old Laguna, but I'll get over it...:)

View attachment 303962

This thing is a beast. It was too tall to bring into the shop through the overhead door. I had to get my neighbor to come over and help me tip it over at an angle and drag it in. Which was no small feat as it was 628 pounds sitting on the pallet.
Does this mean you can retire the circular saw from metal cutting? :)
 
I saw this a bit late, but you did the right thing to wire the voice coils in series for 4ohms. They woofer says 100w, not sure if they was per VC but probably not. Your amp is 200w at 4ohms, so you are good and it is a bit easier on your amp to provide a 4 ohm load than a 2 ohm. You get a bit better dampening factor with 4 ohms anyway, not that you'd ever be able to tell.

I wouldn't have bothered with replacing the factory wiring either. I didn't for mine. Your ears will give out long before the LCR of 18 gauge wiring becomes a factor.
 
I saw this a bit late, but you did the right thing to wire the voice coils in series for 4ohms. They woofer says 100w, not sure if they was per VC but probably not. Your amp is 200w at 4ohms, so you are good and it is a bit easier on your amp to provide a 4 ohm load than a 2 ohm. You get a bit better dampening factor with 4 ohms anyway, not that you'd ever be able to tell.

I wouldn't have bothered with replacing the factory wiring either. I didn't for mine. Your ears will give out long before the LCR of 18 gauge wiring becomes a factor.
Thanks - I appreciate the feed back.
 
This morning I cut all the wires to length, made sure everything was labeled correctly, and tinned all the bare wire connections. I also added a weatherpack connector for the amp trigger.

Jeep - Stereo Amp 4 (11).JPG


At that point it was all plug and play.

Jeep - Stereo Amp 4 (14).JPG


Turned everything on, looked for smoke (luckily none...🤗), and tested it out. Big difference in volume and clarity, and it drives the sub much better than it ever has before.

I am having an issue though - I'm getting some static when nothing is playing, and it increases and decreases with the volume. Not an issue that I've ever noticed before. I can really hear it when I turn the volume up high. I've checked all the connections, and walked through disconnecting all the input and outputs one at a time to see if it was any specific channel - with no change.

The manual for the amp recommended that the ground for the amp be in the same location as the ground for the head unit. They are not as the ground for the head unit is still in the stock location. Could that be creating the issue? Anything else I can check while I have access to everything?