The OCD Force is strong in you…nice work as always.
Nashville TJ's Build Continued
- Thread starter NashvilleTJ
- Start date
The OCD Force is strong in you…nice work as always.
OP
I picked up a radiator hose kit from Red Rock, which made it easy. For the radiator hoses, here are the part numbers I have:
Upper - Napa Part # 8030
Lower - Napa Part # 7759
But those are specific for the radiator I run (mine is a cross flow, also from Red Rock), so it depends on your radiator.
Heater hoses, I just used standard 3/4”, but whatever your particular heater core needs. Something in my memory tells me there was a small mismatch between the heater core and one of the corosponding connections on the Hemi water pump, but not a big deal as I recall.
I custom made all of the power steering, trans cooler, and A/C lines.
OP
Thanks,
I would think those would work for me also. Should just depend on inlet and outlet locations on the radiator, and mine are in the same location even though it's a down flow type.
Yeah there are some mismatch in the heater hoses. I figured it probably won't be a big deal on that.
Brianj5600
TJ Expert
OP
Well, day two here in Nashville and the trailer has still not been stolen. Success, once again!
But now, I'm lookin' at this thing....
OP
Throttle idle control for the welder.
Well, day two here in Nashville and the trailer has still not been stolen. Success, once again!
But now, I'm lookin' at this thing....
View attachment 392322
VERY, VERY STRONG!
One heater hose is 3/4” to 3/4” so that’s no problem…
The other heater hose needs to go from 3/4” to 5/8”. I just ran 3/4” hose close to the 5/8” barb and used a 3/4” to 5/8” hose conversion adapter and a short section of 5/8” heater hose…
OP
That was it. I think I just hossed down on the hose clamp during the install with the thought of going back and doing it correctly after everything was working. I think I forgot about that until just now…
OP
For the last couple of weeks my AFR gauge has been reading very lean. At startup it appeared to be fine, but as soon as I began to drive it would slowly climb and ultimately max out - indicated by this display:
While driving I would see 15's and 16's, and then back to —-. So, obviously my first thought was:
"What the *$^%%^ did Flyin' Ryan do to my tune!!!!"
Not really - tunes don't work that way.
After checking all my connections, and looking for and finding no vacuum leaks, I figured there was something wrong either with the gauge or the wide band O2 sensor. Just the same - I was not throwing to coal to it, just in case.
An easy test for the sensor is to pull it and check the gauge. It should read full lean - which it did.
Next, soak a rag in brake cleaner (safer) or fuel and wrap it around the sensor - a properly functioning gauge should go full rich and stay there until you remove the rag.
Since I was home alone, I had to take a video to see what the gauge was doing. Here is what it did:
It goes full rich as soon as I wrap the soaked rag around the sensor, but then it immediately goes full lean - and then no change at all when I remove the rag. Definite indicator for a bad sensor.
So bad sensor - after just a year and a half. Well, $130 later for a new Bosch wideband and the mill was strangely back to running a good AFR.
While driving I would see 15's and 16's, and then back to —-. So, obviously my first thought was:
"What the *$^%%^ did Flyin' Ryan do to my tune!!!!"
Not really - tunes don't work that way.
After checking all my connections, and looking for and finding no vacuum leaks, I figured there was something wrong either with the gauge or the wide band O2 sensor. Just the same - I was not throwing to coal to it, just in case.
An easy test for the sensor is to pull it and check the gauge. It should read full lean - which it did.
Next, soak a rag in brake cleaner (safer) or fuel and wrap it around the sensor - a properly functioning gauge should go full rich and stay there until you remove the rag.
Since I was home alone, I had to take a video to see what the gauge was doing. Here is what it did:
It goes full rich as soon as I wrap the soaked rag around the sensor, but then it immediately goes full lean - and then no change at all when I remove the rag. Definite indicator for a bad sensor.
So bad sensor - after just a year and a half. Well, $130 later for a new Bosch wideband and the mill was strangely back to running a good AFR.
For the last couple of weeks my AFR gauge has been reading very lean. At startup it appeared to be fine, but as soon as I began to drive it would slowly climb and ultimately max out - indicated by this display:
View attachment 393043
While driving I would see 15's and 16's, and then back to —-. So, obviously my first thought was:
"What the *$^%%^ did Flyin' Ryan do to my tune!!!!"
Not really - tunes don't work that way.
After checking all my connections, and looking for and finding no vacuum leaks, I figured there was something wrong either with the gauge or the wide band O2 sensor. Just the same - I was not throwing to coal to it, just in case.
An easy test for the sensor is to pull it and check the gauge. It should read full lean - which it did.
Next, soak a rag in brake cleaner (safer) or fuel and wrap it around the sensor - a properly functioning gauge should go full rich and stay there until you remove the rag.
View attachment 393046
Since I was home alone, I had to take a video to see what the gauge was doing. Here is what it did:
View attachment 393047
It goes full rich as soon as I wrap the soaked rag around the sensor, but then it immediately goes full lean - and then no change at all when I remove the rag. Definite indicator for a bad sensor.
So bad sensor - after just a year and a half. Well, $130 later for a new Bosch wideband and the mill was strangely back to running a good AFR.
I was going to suggest you pull yours out and ship it to Rick and then get yourself an LS. Oh well. Maybe next time.
Pull his WHAT? I have a wide band O2 gauge just haven't hooked it up as of yet. If you're trying to be snarky & suggest that I do a Hemi swap let's wait until I KNOW what's wrong with my engine.
How is going a STEP backwards for Jeff helping? Throwing a Lame Shit engine into his awesome Jeep would be sacrilege.
Last edited:
Brianj5600
TJ Expert
Blowing argon on the sensor will do the same as brake parts cleaner. It also doesn't smell up the garage.
Nashville,
Getting very close to needing fluids. Was wondering what oil and coolant you are using. I think MOPAR calls for 5w-20 semi or full synthetic oil. I know a lot of people have been using 5w-30 in their truck HEMI's with good results. I'll only be driving it in warm/hot climates, so leaning towards the 30.
As far as coolant, are you using the orange OAT style or just the good old school green?
I've already bought the MOPAR ATF+4 for the transmission.
Thanks in advance...
Getting very close to needing fluids. Was wondering what oil and coolant you are using. I think MOPAR calls for 5w-20 semi or full synthetic oil. I know a lot of people have been using 5w-30 in their truck HEMI's with good results. I'll only be driving it in warm/hot climates, so leaning towards the 30.
As far as coolant, are you using the orange OAT style or just the good old school green?
I've already bought the MOPAR ATF+4 for the transmission.
Thanks in advance...
OP
I run the Hemi’s recommended 5w20 full synthetic. For coolant I run the Prestone premixed green stuff.