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Nashville TJ's Build Continued
- Thread starter NashvilleTJ
- Start date
OP
A little repair work this weekend. I've noticed a lot more movement in my spare tire carrier lately. And what really set me off was seeing a couple recent wheelin' videos that showed it flopping back a forth a bit. This thing has always been rock solid, so something was up.
The bumper has a frame tie in which you can see in this photo. Because of the single pin hinge design of my carrier, the entire weight of the carrier is supported and controlled by this bracket. I took a bunch of video while pulling on the carrier and I could see this thing flexing just a tiny bit. But a tiny bit there let the carrier move about an inch at the top. The carrier and tire are heavy, and that is a whole lot of leverage on that support.
Here it is - you can see that this thing was not designed to keep the bumper from twisting along the vertial axis, but rather just to keep it from coming off when using the recovery points, or towing. Lots of horizontal rigidity, but not much on the vertical. Looking at it closely now, I'm surprised it worked as well as it did.
Not a lot of meat at the intersection. It was designed this way as it is a tight fit to get around the body mount and also allow access to the bolts.
You can't see it in the pic, but on the back side in the red circle it was cracked all the way down to the cross bar - definitely causing the movement.
The bumper has a frame tie in which you can see in this photo. Because of the single pin hinge design of my carrier, the entire weight of the carrier is supported and controlled by this bracket. I took a bunch of video while pulling on the carrier and I could see this thing flexing just a tiny bit. But a tiny bit there let the carrier move about an inch at the top. The carrier and tire are heavy, and that is a whole lot of leverage on that support.
Here it is - you can see that this thing was not designed to keep the bumper from twisting along the vertial axis, but rather just to keep it from coming off when using the recovery points, or towing. Lots of horizontal rigidity, but not much on the vertical. Looking at it closely now, I'm surprised it worked as well as it did.
Not a lot of meat at the intersection. It was designed this way as it is a tight fit to get around the body mount and also allow access to the bolts.
You can't see it in the pic, but on the back side in the red circle it was cracked all the way down to the cross bar - definitely causing the movement.
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OP
I considered building a new support from scratch, but after some thought I decided it would be easier - and just as effective - to reinforce the original.
So out came the heavy-duty power tools to cut some new bracing.
You can't beat this thing for making assembly ready cuts. Like butter, and dead straight.
After a little clearencing to make room, I added this brace across the bottom of the bracket:
Next, I welded it in place and ground everything smooth to make room for a second brace which goes right up the middle, and will further support the two bolts which go into the bumper body (Posting up this morning I realize that I did not get a pic of the second brace while in process
).
And a quick test fit at this point to see where I needed to position the center brace, while still being able to get to the bolts and clear the body mount bushing. You can see here the challenge of getting around the body mount. I also looked at a few ways to support the body mount (doubtless you have all seen that it is a bit bent), but I couldn't come up with a way to do it easily, and still be able to install and remove the bracket.
So out came the heavy-duty power tools to cut some new bracing.
You can't beat this thing for making assembly ready cuts. Like butter, and dead straight.
After a little clearencing to make room, I added this brace across the bottom of the bracket:
Next, I welded it in place and ground everything smooth to make room for a second brace which goes right up the middle, and will further support the two bolts which go into the bumper body (Posting up this morning I realize that I did not get a pic of the second brace while in process
).And a quick test fit at this point to see where I needed to position the center brace, while still being able to get to the bolts and clear the body mount bushing. You can see here the challenge of getting around the body mount. I also looked at a few ways to support the body mount (doubtless you have all seen that it is a bit bent
), but I couldn't come up with a way to do it easily, and still be able to install and remove the bracket.
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OP
And notwithstanding my failure at photo documentation, here is the end result after a bit of paint. Tough to see, but if you look closely you can see the additional center brace I described above, clearenced to get around the body mount and allow access to the center bolt.
The center brace is ultimately what provides the majority of the vertical support to the bumper.
And that did it. The carrier is dead solid once again. And I'm sure Blaine would be very happy that I've added a bit more weight to the rig...
The center brace is ultimately what provides the majority of the vertical support to the bumper.
And that did it. The carrier is dead solid once again. And I'm sure Blaine would be very happy that I've added a bit more weight to the rig...
Changing gears back to your trailer and the ever expanding endeavor of preventing the theft of said trailer. Have you considered something along this line, just in case of the EXTREMELY unlikely event your security features are defeated?
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_GPS_Tracker-pm-Linxup.aspx?utm_source=SendGrid&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=email | Promo - Trailer GPS Tracker&utm_content=20230125-T-RV-LinxupGPSTrackers-feat
Guessing you can’t hide that in a metal tube or in a tool box and have it work. Be easier to keep out of site on top of an enclosed trailer. Interesting product though.
https://barnes4wd.com/products/tj-lj-rear-frame-to-bumper-tie-in-bracket
If you don't have a welder and bandsaw. D
If you don't have a welder and bandsaw. D
I went through the reviews and one of the reviewers stated "It hides very well under the fridge and has no problem getting a signal." So I would say it would probably function as designed mounted under a wooden deck without issue.
OP
Interesting idea - I’ll look into it. Thanks. The service does appear to be close to $200/year. I wonder what something like LoJack costs.
Ask and ye' shall receive.
https://buylojack.com/#:~:text=Buy ...for any make and model,cost $899 (Save $400!)
Is it the picture playing tricks on me, or is the new brace on the bottom hitting the crossmember before the bottom bolt tightens up all the way?
OP
It’s tight. You are seeing the bottom edge of the cross member which wraps around the bracket. I did bend that portion down just a bit to match the angle of the bracket.
OP
At the risk of being ridiculed and shunned, I’ve spent a few days working out a death wobble issue on my neighbor Tony’s rig.
That’s right, JK in da house…
That’s right, JK in da house…
That's ok....
I've had a few of those myself, but went back to the tried and true TJ..
I removed my hydro assist ram to change the seals (leaking) and decided to just cap the box and keep driving it while I waited for caps/seals to be delivered. I quickly discovered how much the ram was acting as a steering stabilizer, first pot hole I hit sent it into death wobble. After pulling over to get it to stop wobbling, I turned around and headed straight home, did not pass go, did not collect $200, in order to change my pants. Not sure who was more scared me or the guy driving the car beside me. True death wobble is not joke!
Good luck on getting that JK rolling wobble free, as payment have him join us on the next trip!
Good luck on getting that JK rolling wobble free, as payment have him join us on the next trip!
Couple questions if you don't mind.what is your toe and caster? I searched here and jf and didn't see you mention it.
I'm trying to help my brother with some odd steering behavior,maybe ackermann related and see your arm and tie rod locations compared to the balljoint look to be set up very similar to his. His jeep is acting very much like tox's did here- https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...treetable-adventure-lj-story.9956/post-522480
Did you ever experience this?
His jeep is about 50 miles away from his new house and hasn't got me pics so i can start a thread but i figured I'd keep trying to do homework on some different forums until then.
Only pic i have right now showing much is this.
Anyway it would be appreciated if you had any input!
I'm trying to help my brother with some odd steering behavior,maybe ackermann related and see your arm and tie rod locations compared to the balljoint look to be set up very similar to his. His jeep is acting very much like tox's did here- https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...treetable-adventure-lj-story.9956/post-522480
Did you ever experience this?
His jeep is about 50 miles away from his new house and hasn't got me pics so i can start a thread but i figured I'd keep trying to do homework on some different forums until then.
Only pic i have right now showing much is this.
Anyway it would be appreciated if you had any input!
OP
I run a normal toe of about 1/8'. I run the castor at around 7. I've not had issues like Tox described.
I'll keep an eye out for a thread on your brothers Jeep.
OP
At first I was like - why is Ryan doggin' me about my toe???
Than I actually read what I typed...
Good catch, Dude
I’ve been wondering why everyone gives a single number for caster, like ~7* or ~5*. Aren’t the C’s clocked by 0.5*, so that the caster on one side of the axle is 0.5* more or less than the other side? Mine is 6.2* and 6.7*. Just curious.