Need advice on building up Rubicon Dana 44s to run 35 inch tires

[KYJeep11]

I'm looking for very specific advice on how to best go about building up the front & rear Dana44's that came on my '03 TJ Rubicon. I'd like to be able to run 35's and wheel them somewhat aggressively.

I'm hoping for some good recommendations on what parts should be upgraded and also what brands to go with. I have found a few miscellaneous pieces of advice on this, but lots of contradicting information and most of the topics relate to building up Dana30 or 35, not the 44.

I only need advice on the axle build at this point. Everything else is ready to go. Thank you in advance!

 

[astjp2]

Well you can install 60's to handle the abuse...the rubicon 44 front is about as stout as a hp 30...

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Really, if that "aggressively" can be taken literally, the only thing I'd do to the axles is upgrade the rear axle shafts to 4340 chromoly. Revolution Gear 4340 shafts would be a great choice, you can get them from Ricky at www.4lowparts.com who has been a long-term dealer for RG. The front Dana 44 is fine as is, strength-wise.

The only other upgrades would include stronger/better brakes like from Black Magic Brakes and regearing the axles to a significantly lower ratio. Since your transmission is the NV3550 5-speed, I'd regear them to 4.88. Revolution Gear makes gears for your axles too.

My big caution on having the axles regeared is to only have a shop do them who has done 2003-06 Rubicons before. TJ Rubicon axles require a special technique to get the carrier reinstalled which is due to a special sensor inside the axle that will (!) get in the way of reinstalling the carrier.

 

[KYJeep11]

Really, if that "aggressively" can be taken literally, the only thing I'd do to the axles is upgrade the rear axle shafts to 4340 chromoly. Revolution Gear 4340 shafts would be a great choice, you can get them from Ricky at www.4lowparts.com who has been a long-term dealer for RG. The front Dana 44 is fine as is, strength-wise.

The only other upgrades would include stronger/better brakes like from Black Magic Brakes and regearing the axles to a significantly lower ratio. Since your transmission is the NV3550 5-speed, I'd regear them to 4.88. Revolution Gear makes gears for your axles too.

My big caution on having the axles regeared is to only have a shop do them who has done 2003-06 Rubicons before. TJ Rubicon axles require a special technique to get the carrier reinstalled which is due to a special sensor inside the axle that will (!) get in the way of reinstalling the carrier.

That's what worries me. The shop doesn't seem to be all that familiar with my Rubicon. I have been the one to specify every single part needed for upgrades, all thanks to this forum. They originally recommended a SYE because they didn't realize that the Rubicon didn't require one (I had to be the one to let them know). I already ordered the Vanco BBK, but once again, they didn't suggest it, I did because of reading about them here. The salesman is also making me uncomfortable about the Tom Woods rear driveshaft we're ordering. He doesn't seem to think it's important to take measurements prior to ordering it. He said that it would extend and contract enough that it won't matter. Unfortunately, this is the only shop within 100 miles that I'm aware of that supposedly specializes in Jeeps.

 

[astjp2]

Well maybe it is time to find a new driveline shop.

 

[KYJeep11]

Well maybe it is time to find a new driveline shop.

I've considered it. If there was a more reputable place within 2 hours of here, I would. I'm wondering if maybe it's just an issue of the sales person not knowing technical things.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

That's what worries me. The shop doesn't seem to be all that familiar with my Rubicon. I have been the one to specify every single part needed for upgrades, all thanks to this forum. They originally recommended a SYE because they didn't realize that the Rubicon didn't require one (I had to be the one to let them know). I already ordered the Vanco BBK, but once again, they didn't suggest it, I did because of reading about them here. The salesman is also making me uncomfortable about the Tom Woods rear driveshaft we're ordering. He doesn't seem to think it's important to take measurements prior to ordering it. He said that it would extend and contract enough that it won't matter. Unfortunately, this is the only shop within 100 miles that I'm aware of that supposedly specializes in Jeeps.

Uh oh, I think I'd move a cot into that shop and start watching them like a hawk. That special technique needed to get the regeared carrier back into the axle housing isn't difficult and I can give you a few photos to show them on how to do it when you're ready. It's a serious thing, things will get screwed up if they just try to reinsert the carrier as you do with a non-Rubicon axle.

 

[Mr. Bills]

To @KYJeep11 :

Your post raises too many red flags about the shop you are using. I wouldn't let any shop work on my rig that claims it doesn't matter whether or not one measures for a custom driveshaft.

 

[KYJeep11]

Uh oh, I think I'd move a cot into that shop and start watching them like a hawk. That special technique needed to get the regeared carrier back into the axle housing isn't difficult and I can give you a few photos to show them on how to do it when you're ready. It's a serious thing, things will get screwed up if they just try to reinsert the carrier as you do with a non-Rubicon axle.

Thank you Jerry. I'm thankful to have this forum around as this is my first ever build. I'd definitely love to have some pictures if you have the chance. I'm going to start scouting around for a different shop. I might have to go down to Tennessee if I can't find anyone here in Kentucky.

I'm going to pay very close attention to whether or not they've already ordered my driveshaft prior to taking the measurements.

 

[Rick Flair]

Yeah you’d be good to run far away from that place. I know you mentioned a tummy tuck in another thread, if you told them this and they don’t think the driveline is an issue...yeah, they wouldn’t be touching my Jeep. Interview some shops. Let them tell you what you need. Play dumb, don’t let them know you already have the knowledge to know if they are legit or not.

Or ask on here and see if any local guys know of a good one.

 

[AndyG]

Thou art going to have a headache if they regeareth thy Rubicon.

Just Jeeps and More , Knoxville. Check them out online...very nice outfit.

 

[astjp2]

So what are you expecting to fail? the tubes bending or breaking a shaft? If a R&P is set up, it typically wont fail before the shafts break or your housing winds up just being a little off.

 

[L J]

Really, if that "aggressively" can be taken literally, the only thing I'd do to the axles is upgrade the rear axle shafts to 4340 chromoly.

Revolution lists their rears as 4140(?)

... Ricky at www.4lowparts.com who has been a long-term dealer for RG.

I bought my rears from Ricky a month or so ago but I wonder if he is still in biz. The website is down: "NOTICE: This domain name expired on 5/12/2019 and is pending renewal or deletion."

 

[KYJeep11]

So what are you expecting to fail? the tubes bending or breaking a shaft? If a R&P is set up, it typically wont fail before the shafts break or your housing winds up just being a little off.

Well, my questionable shop is recommending "Dry Ice" sleeves, Arca trussing, 30 spline chromoly shaft, and Yukon gears. $6,000 total for both axles, including labor. But I no longer trust this shop, so I wanted to find out from you guys here.

I don't know what exactly I'm "expecting" to fail. But I've been told here that the stock 44s on my Rubicon need built up if I'm going to run 35's.

 

[KYJeep11]

Yeah you’d be good to run far away from that place. I know you mentioned a tummy tuck in another thread, if you told them this and they don’t think the driveline is an issue...yeah, they wouldn’t be touching my Jeep. Interview some shops. Let them tell you what you need. Play dumb, don’t let them know you already have the knowledge to know if they are legit or not.

Or ask on here and see if any local guys know of a good one.

This whole deal is probably going to turn into a giant headache. I've already paid $3,300 in advance (to cover some of the parts). Now I'm not sure whether to go ahead and let them just install the Currie lift and the Savvy body lift and take it elsewhere for axle work or just tell them I want the parts or what. They're charging $85/hr for labor, so they should be good. I could be wrong, but I feel like $85/hr x 8 hours for the suspension lift + $85/hr x 4 hours for the body lift is fairly steep.

I'm halfway inclined to ask to speak to a manager and/or a tech that actually works on the Jeeps. I get a strong feeling that my salesperson is new. As long as the guys doing the actual work know their stuff, I'd feel a lot more comfortable.

 

[JMT]

I can do the work faster than that, especially the body lift.

Man, I’d scat for the axle work. You don’t need all that to run 35’s on a Dana 44. Need 4340 or 4140 axle shafts. Save yourself a ton of money and go to Knoxville!

 

[mattcogdell]

@KYJeep11 get on the phone and schedule the work with Rock Your 4x4 in Knoxville. Jason and Jesse, hands down between the two there’s so much talent and honesty. I wouldn’t hesitate to take my stuff there. They installed my Savvy lift, axle skids, johnny joint mounts on the axles, rotated my factory spring perches, replaced my inner axle seals front and rear, ran a new exhaust and had the Jeep aligned. Prior to that I had installed the savvy tummy tuck and supporting mods and they knew all about them. When I picked my Jeep up there where 3 TJ rubicons there being worked on. They can build you a 500hp unstoppable, long travel, bad ass rig. Or they can do small bolt on type work. Be warned though they stay busy and getting in for scheduling can sometimes be a month in a half out.

P.s. there’s some truth to the shaft length. 9/10 tom woods shafts are all the same length. My tom woods shaft for a 2” lift with a tt. Is still correct length for it now with 4” and the tt. The standard rubi shaft they have on their site was the exact size I needed.......it’s almost like Tom woods knew something when listing that standard shaft.

 

[skrelnik]

This whole deal is probably going to turn into a giant headache. I've already paid $3,300 in advance (to cover some of the parts). Now I'm not sure whether to go ahead and let them just install the Currie lift and the Savvy body lift and take it elsewhere for axle work or just tell them I want the parts or what. They're charging $85/hr for labor, so they should be good. I could be wrong, but I feel like $85/hr x 8 hours for the suspension lift + $85/hr x 4 hours for the body lift is fairly steep.

I'm halfway inclined to ask to speak to a manager and/or a tech that actually works on the Jeeps. I get a strong feeling that my salesperson is new. As long as the guys doing the actual work know their stuff, I'd feel a lot more comfortable.

Like @JMT said, those hours are ridiculous, but to me the hourly rate is cheap, so the net payment is a decent.

The products they recommended are good quality, like the Yukon gears. Unfortunately you may be at the shops mercy with certain brands, if they never installed Revolution gears, but have 100s of Yukon gear installs, then you should feel more comfortable with them installing Yukon gears since that is what they know.

But I do agree, you need to speak with the tech, not the salesperson. Just ask...

 

[jjvw]

Yukon vs Revolution is less important than the warranty on the setup is. The drive shaft thing may be a misunderstanding. But there is no need for sleeves and trusses on those axles.

 

[mrblaine]

I can do the work faster than that, especially the body lift.

Man, I’d scat for the axle work. You don’t need all that to run 35’s on a Dana 44. Need 4340 or 4140 axle shafts. Save yourself a ton of money and go to Knoxville!

Ya'll are just good then, way better than us. The body lift is about 1-2 hours. Anyone saying it can or is done faster is likely forgetting the relocate for the fan shroud and dealing with the t-case shifter and filler neck hoses.

If you get the full bore Currie lift, springs, bump stops, steering, front and rear track bars, extended sway bar links, front AR, and some shocks, you're looking at 12-14 hours turn key. That means it has been test driven, steering wheel centered, axles centered side to side, proper bump stop alignment, t-case hits all the modes correctly, control arms aren't fighting each other and are preloaded correctly, cycled for interferences and corrected, diff doesn't hit gas tank skid, rear track relocator installed and welded on and then everything double checked.

It takes 3-5 hours after the install to dial everything in so there are no issues. Ya'll doing it faster than that are either just very damn good or you might have overlooked something. It will also have to come back for a secondary adjustment after everything settles in and the steering wheel is off center slightly.

There isn't a SYE install or CV driveshaft install in the above and the resultant test drive for vibes.