Tom won't even build us a driveshaft without a dimension. The Yukon thing is a bit funny though. Depending on the day and the ratio, the shop has likely been installing RGA stuff all along.
Need advice on building up Rubicon Dana 44s to run 35 inch tires
- Thread starter KYJeep11
- Start date
Internal axle sleeves do NOT increase axle housing strength and your axles don't need to be trussed... my Rubicon does extremely tough trails and neither are sleeved or trussed on my Rubicon, I wouldn't consider installing them. 4140 rear shafts are fine too.
Yukon gears are fine but I'd rather have Revolution Gear gears since you know their origin and who made them which is Circle K in S. Korea... the best at this point. Yukon also sources their gears from Circle K but they do from other lesser quality sources too so there's no guarantee what you'd get from Yukon... though for the most part, you shouldn't have any trouble with any of them providing they are installed and broken in properly. Proper break-in to new gears is CRUCIAL. I'd use ONLY conventional gear lube during the gear break-in. Revolution Gear also specifies that ONLY a conventional gear lube be used for break-in.
Here are some photos for you on that rubicon axle issue the installer needs to understand and know how to work with before starting. There's an unusual sensor inside the 2003-6 Rubicon axles, it is there to tell the computer when the locker is locked. When the locker locks, it pulls the sensor to the side which sends a 'locked' signal to the computer which turns off the flashing locker light.
The first pic shows the position of the sensor, it is hidden from view when the carrier (locker) is installed. That red thing in that photo and in the second photo is the trick to the technique of getting the carrier/locker reinstalled without damage. That's a piece of a red wooden toothpick with a 2' piece of fishing line attached to it. That toothpick's job is to hold the sensor out fully extended, past its normal position, so the carrier/locker can be reinstalled so it ends up on the correct side of the 'button' at the end of the sensor. Once the carrier/locker is reinstalled you pull the toothpick out with the fishing line.
The last photo shows how it fits together. When the locker locks it moves left and pulls the sensor left with it. So that toothpick is used to hold the sensor open far enough so the edge of the locker will be on the correct side of that button on the end of the sensor.
If that procedure is not followed the locker will be jammed and in a half-locked/half-unlocked position which is bad news. Make sure anyone who gets inside your axles is experienced with this.
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Which is better, 4340 or 4140? Is this the right product?
https://www.4lowparts.com/shop/dana-44-rear-axle-kit-jeep-tj-xj/
Is there any benefit at all to doing this front axle kit as well?
https://www.4lowparts.com/shop/dana-44-tj-rubicon-front-axle-kit-discovery-series/
Both/either 4340 and 4140 are fine. I'd do the rear but the front axle seldom sees more than about 50% of the load the rear axle does on a regular basis. Your Rubicon's Dana 44 axle shafts are 30 spline (front and rear) so your front axle is already stronger than a normal TJ's front Dana 30 which has smaller diameter/weaker 27 spline shafts.
The decision between the front or rear shafts might be an interesting discussion. I happened upon my front Superior shafts before the rears. And I felt a small sense of relief after seeing that a broken front can be much more or an ordeal than a broken rear. At least as far as a Dana 44 rear is concerned.
Is the thickness of material around the ujoint more or less on a 30 spline shaft vs a 27 spline shaft?
The u-joints and stub shafts are the same on the Rubicon 44 vs the Dana 30. 27 spline outers on both. Dimensionally, my Superiors are very similar to stock if I recall.
Spoken like someone who has never had to hammer out a piece of broken shaft from the other side.
Hammer a few out and you'll figure out that which end doesn't matter, the hole through the locker does.That is correct!
I'm picturing the stump falling into the case if it isn't knocked out from the opposite side. So both wheels are coming off no matter what.
I can verify from first-hand experience that the TJ's factory jack handle shaft is pretty effective doing that. Though I plan to snatch up an appropriate length of rebar the next time I see one to carry for that job.
It's back up.
The discovery series are Revolution's imported axles. As far as 4140 vs 4340 goes this is the response I got from Revolution:
The smart move is to let the shop supply the parts. Most good gear shops will refuse to install customer supplied parts. The shops willing to let you supply the parts won't warranty the labor if something goes wrong, at least not if they have functioning brain cells.
You have the cart before the horse. Your first step is to find a jeep and/or gear shop you can trust.