Need advice on possible 2003 Rubicon purchase

Datman

Member
Joined
May 15, 2019
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90
Location
louisiana
First off i want to thank everybody on here....

Sooo here we go....looked at this 2003 rubicon today.....under carriage looks good.....my main issue is that the locker hose to the front axle is cut and tapped. Also the button doesnt work and it doesnt light up on the dash. I can confirm the 4wd works...

5 spd...I am attaching pics. I would greatly appreciate it any input asap Cause i have to move on it asap...Its a VERY good price......IN THE PIC YOU CAN SEE IM HOLDING THE CUT HOSE....

Question is how much would it cost worst case scenario to replace the lockers.....

IMG_6123.JPGIMG_6125.JPGIMG_6127.JPGIMG_6128.JPGIMG_6130.JPGIMG_6139.JPGIMG_6140.JPGIMG_6141.JPGIMG_6142.JPGIMG_6148.JPGIMG_6108.JPGIMG_6109.JPGIMG_6110.JPGIMG_6112.JPGIMG_6116.JPGIMG_6117.JPGIMG_6118.JPGIMG_6119.JPGIMG_6120.JPGIMG_6122.JPG
 
If I had to guess, I would assume that the front locker is blown or not working. Why that is, I have no idea. You'd need to remove the diff cover and inspect, or take it to a drivetrain shop to have them check it out.

The bottom line though is that while the underside isn't "clean", I don't see any major rust or frame rot (I'd like to have seen some photos of the transfer case where it attaches to the frame, as that's the most common area for frame rot).

$7500 is an absolute steal assuming it runs and drives fine, and the body is in good condition without rust.
 
If I had to guess, I would assume that the front locker is blown or not working. Why that is, I have no idea. You'd need to remove the diff cover and inspect, or take it to a drivetrain shop to have them check it out.

The bottom line though is that while the underside isn't "clean", I don't see any major rust or frame rot (I'd like to have seen some photos of the transfer case where it attaches to the frame, as that's the most common area for frame rot).

$7500 is an absolute steal assuming it runs and drives fine, and the body is in good condition without rust.

Thank you SIR
 
$7500? Wow, if the front diff lock is the only "major" thing that's wrong, that's an incredible deal!

Does the rear locker function?

As for replacing the the front locker, assuming it is bad, going with an OE-style replacement will cost probably $2K in parts alone, which is probably why most people that have them go out seem to either get a used one (or used axle) if you can find one (check internet listings for salvage parts dealers) or just replace them with aftermarket lockers like the ARB, OX Locker, or Detroit TruTrac. The TruTrac (actually a very effective limited slip unit) can be had for about $500 ($480 on Amazon right now) plus installation parts (bearings, etc.)...say $600 or so total plus labor (you'll have to call around on that but it would likely be $800 or more). Note that doing this yourself is not for the faint of heart...witness this video and this one.

If you get it, I'd kill the rust on the rear diff cover before it gets bad.

Best of luck, sounds like a killer deal to me!
 
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Oh, and looking at pics 12 and 13, there is definitely an oil leak somewhere. Probably the rear main seal but could be the oil pan gasket or the valve cover gasket. If you can do your own wrenching, none of these are expensive. The rear main seal is the most difficult but not too bad for a handy guy (lots of YouTube videos on that). According to repairpal.com, having it done can run between $102 and $569...so call around if you go that way. But definitely check the oil pan and valve cover gaskets first; they're a relative cinch to replace.
 
Keep thinking of other things...
When you test drive it, be on the lookout for funky vibrations, especially in 4WD. These may indicate a major problem in the diff like broken teeth or bits running around inside.

EDIT: [After a short drive,] I'd pull the fill plug and stick a finger in to get at the fluid. If it looks like it has a lot of metal in the fluid (will look kind of like metallic paint or just have metal bits in it), then you will probably be looking at a complete diff internals replacement...everything mentioned before plus both ring and pinion gear. If it's really bad, maybe an entire axle.
These guys list used complete axles (check with them about having the factory locker) for $2300...but I don't know them from Adam.
 
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Mine is an ‘03 Rubi and when I first looked at it on the lot, it had the same problem - no 4WD and no light. I crawled underneath and used the flashlight on my phone. Found a hose disconnected from one of the compressors. I asked for a test drive and took it to my shop where they confirmed that when connected, everything was good to go. Just saying . . . .
$7,500 is like stealing!
 
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No guarantee your front axle's locker is bad, that will have to be investigated further. There are a few possibilities on why the previous owner cut the air hose and sensor wire leading to the front axle. Maybe someone removed the carrier and reinstalled it incorrectly which can jam it up and cause problems. The PO pay have just cut the wire and air tube from not knowing what was wrong or what to do.
 
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I'd bet the locker is fine and the source to the problem is either the compressor, or wiring harness. You'll first obviously need to reconnect the air fitting that leads into the front axle. From the pic it looks like it snapped, so you'll at least need to order a replacement. Make sure the wire harnesses are connected. You can trigger the compressors to kick on in 4lo with the key in the on position without having the engine running. This way you can listen to see if they're even turning on. If you get the light to turn on, and the compressors aren't making any noise, those will at least need to be replaced as well
 
Update....Here she is...I will upload more pics when i can
Rear locker works....
Front hose is cut..So obviously it wont engage. but the lights all come on, just the front flashes.....and theres sometimes a little bit of clunking in the front...probably cv joints or ball joints...will def need some new bearings and seals! Im excited

IMG_6132.jpg
 
$7500? Wow, if the front diff lock is the only "major" thing that's wrong, that's an incredible deal!

Does the rear locker function?

As for replacing the the front locker, assuming it is bad, going with an OE-style replacement will cost probably $2K in parts alone, which is probably why most people that have them go out seem to either get a used one (or used axle) if you can find one (check internet listings for salvage parts dealers) or just replace them with aftermarket lockers like the ARB, OX Locker, or Detroit TruTrac. The TruTrac (actually a very effective limited slip unit) can be had for about $500 ($480 on Amazon right now) plus installation parts (bearings, etc.)...say $600 or so total plus labor (you'll have to call around on that but it would likely be $800 or more). Note that doing this yourself is not for the faint of heart...witness this video and this one.

If you get it, I'd kill the rust on the rear diff cover before it gets bad.

Best of luck, sounds like a killer deal to me!


What should i use for the rust on the rear diff
 
I'd bet the locker is fine and the source to the problem is either the compressor, or wiring harness. You'll first obviously need to reconnect the air fitting that leads into the front axle. From the pic it looks like it snapped, so you'll at least need to order a replacement. Make sure the wire harnesses are connected. You can trigger the compressors to kick on in 4lo with the key in the on position without having the engine running. This way you can listen to see if they're even turning on. If you get the light to turn on, and the compressors aren't making any noise, those will at least need to be replaced as well


Both compressors kick on!
 
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Update....Here she is...I will upload more pics when i can
Rear locker works....
Front hose is cut..So obviously it wont engage. but the lights all come on, just the front flashes.....and theres sometimes a little bit of clunking in the front...probably cv joints or ball joints...will def need some new bearings and seals! Im excited

View attachment 95437
Oh that’s really a nice one. Great color!
 
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What should i use for the rust on the rear diff
If you don't own a pressure washer, rent one. Buy a wet sand blaster kit for the pressure washer (cheap all day long on amazon). Don't hit any wires or connectors while doing it. Use a hose to wash away any residual sand. Wait till it's dry or use a compressor, leaf blower or just a put a fan on it. Start painting.
 
Welp, had a local jeep builder take once over on Rubie. Needs track bar, drag link, axle seals, and diff oil front and rear, valve cover gasket, and wire to active the front locker, and blower fan for a/c.........I appreciate everybodys help!
 
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Welp, had a local jeep builder take once over on Rubie. Needs track bar, drag link, axle seals, and diff oil front and rear, valve cover gasket, and wire to active the front locker, and blower fan for a/c.........I appreciate everybodys help!


Not bad, you can do all that it’s not complicated. Sounds like scored a deal!