Need advice on radiator

Davy-Crockettm28

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Hey guys, ive gotta ask for some advice. To preface this, Im a college student in Boone, NC, which was just smacked by Hurricane Helena. Half the town was under water, and hundreds of cars have been totaled from flood damage, so getting work done at a shop here probably isn't an option.

Yesterday, while driving around, my Jeep overheated. I parked it quickly, got a buddy to bring me some new radiator fluid since it was bone dry, and got the thing home safe. I checked her a few hours later, and she was drained. This afternoon, once the rains died down, I went out to look at the radiator more closely, and I think that either the seal where the black plastic meets the aluminum broke or there is a crack in the actual aluminum. Theirs a good bit of coolant along the plastic bottom. I also messed with the drain, and no matter how much I turned, it was still dripping at least a tiny bit.

Either way, I think it's going to have to be replaced; I don't know for certain, so if you all have any ideas on how to confirm, let me know. But to get to my question: Would this be something I could do in my parking lot with hand tools, or would it be worth it to get it towed to my hometown an hour away and have my typical mechanic go over it?

TLDR: would it be better to replace my radiator myself in my apartment parking lot or figure out a way to get the jeep towed back home to get a mechanic's eye on it?

Thank yall today has been a wild ride. Thankfully, my roommates and I are safe; others fared much worse than us (one of our friends had her car totaled from flooding)
 
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With the questions you are asking , I vote for take it to your mechanic.

That's how I'm leaning. I just wanted to make sure I don't waste time trying to get it there if it is something easy (the video I watched didn't look to hard). I try to be as handy as I can with it, but that'll only get ya so far
 
Changing the radiator isn't very hard. You'll need some sockets (don't know the sizes off the top of my head, but some here might) and a ratchet to remove the fan shroud bolts and pull it toward the engine to create room, sockets and ratchet to remove the bolts holding the radiator in, pliers to squeeze and slide the upper and lower hose clamps back. This is assuming you have the factory constant tension hose clamps. Constant tension hose clamp pliers make it easier, but if you have a big enough pair of regular pliers, it's doable. If you have worm drive clamps, you'll need a screwdriver or small socket. You'll need some 50/50 mix of coolant and possibly a funnel depending on how steady you are. You may get some more coolant leak out in the process, so a catch pan or bucket would be good. Many will recommend a MOPAR radiator, which is great, but can be hard to find and pretty pricey. A Denso brand radiator seems to get good reviews in our Jeeps, from what I've seen. I but one in my Silverado a year ago.

If you decide you want to do it yourself, you can easily get more info on doing it here or on YouTube.
 
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If you have done any work on a car you can totally swap a radiator yourself very quickly. I my self have done it in my college apartment parking lot and took maybe 30 min. That is coming from someone who doesn’t like shops though.
 
If you have done any work on a car you can totally swap a radiator yourself very quickly. I my self have done it in my college apartment parking lot and took maybe 30 min. That is coming from someone who doesn’t like shops though.

I try to do as much as I can myself; I like knowing the ins and outs of what's being repaired and how. I just don't want to get in over my head, but from the sounds of it from others, it might be something I can do.
 
Changing the radiator isn't very hard. You'll need some sockets (don't know the sizes off the top of my head, but some here might) and a ratchet to remove the fan shroud bolts and pull it toward the engine to create room, sockets and ratchet to remove the bolts holding the radiator in, pliers to squeeze and slide the upper and lower hose clamps back. This is assuming you have the factory constant tension hose clamps. Constant tension hose clamp pliers make it easier, but if you have a big enough pair of regular pliers, it's doable. If you have worm drive clamps, you'll need a screwdriver or small socket. You'll need some 50/50 mix of coolant and possibly a funnel depending on how steady you are. You may get some more coolant leak out in the process, so a catch pan or bucket would be good. Many will recommend a MOPAR radiator, which is great, but can be hard to find and pretty pricey. A Denso brand radiator seems to get good reviews in our Jeeps, from what I've seen. I but one in my Silverado a year ago.

If you decide you want to do it yourself, you can easily get more info on doing it here or on YouTube.

Thanks for all the helpful info. It sounds like all I would need to get is the radiator, coolant, and a drain pan. I've got a full tool bag in the trunk and an almost full socket set.
 
I try to do as much as I can myself; I like knowing the ins and outs of what's being repaired and how. I just don't want to get in over my head, but from the sounds of it from others, it might be something I can do.

You should really do the whole cooling system because next week it’s going to be something else. It’s very easy. $130 denso, new Robert Shaw thermostat. Mopar or Chrysler water pump. Flush the system and move on down the road. Think Legos. It’s Legos for men. Drain the coolant that’s left from the stop cock under the radiator into a 5 gallon bucket to get started…

Or drop $2k and pray they do it right.
 
You mean like this much water?

IMG_20240927_173005.jpg


Then when the water left, I was greeted with a new boat.

20240927_090426.jpg



Yes, you can fix this yourself.
 
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You should really do the whole cooling system because next week it’s going to be something else. It’s very easy. $130 denso, new Robert Shaw thermostat. Mopar or Chrysler water pump. Flush the system and move on down the road. Think Legos. It’s Legos for men. Drain the coolant that’s left from the stop cock under the radiator into a 5 gallon bucket to get started…

Or drop $2k and pray they do it right.

Don't forget the fan clutch. And a Thermocure flush.

He needs this on the road...yes all those things would be excellent things to do.

But not in the middle of a disaster.

Slam in a radiator and drive it. Deal with the next problem if and when it occurs.

-Mac
 
Don't forget the fan clutch. And a Thermocure flush.

He needs this on the road...yes all those things would be excellent things to do.

But not in the middle of a disaster.

Slam in a radiator and drive it. Deal with the next problem if and when it occurs.

-Mac

Maybe, but put all the other parts on the docket and actually get it done. Then coast for awhile!
 
Since you’re half way there I’d replace the hoses along with the radiator. Flush the engine with distilled water while the old one is still in. There will still be water in the engine and you need to factor this in the 50/50 ratio. Easiest way to do this is find the coolant capacity and add the correct amount of coolant first then top off with distilled water. Personally I only use straight coolant and not premixed 50/50. Also you’ll need ATF to replace what is lost in the process of replacing the integral trans cooler.
I have every confidence that you can do this.
 
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You mean like this much water?

View attachment 561450

Then when the water left, I was greeted with a new boat.

View attachment 561451


Yes, you can fix this yourself.

Yep! Boone came within a few inches of breaking our previous record for rain set in 1940, which was about 13 inches. And since that rain is all funneled into the valley there were areas with 2 or 3 feet worth of flash flood waters.

7E00655C-B754-4EB3-8996-8E3941DBBEF8_4_5005_c.jpeg


84C204CC-511E-45FC-A134-9A8CA45D5BFF_4_5005_c.jpeg


5C29A9B4-891C-4F50-9349-146E70D45B64_1_201_a.jpeg