Need advice on what to do about bent axle

If this thing is not being used for offroading, I would just buy a set of https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/30ALB10.html or https://www.barnes4wd.com/Jeep-TJ-Rear-Lower-Control-Arm-Mounts_p_501.html You really dont need bullet proof mounts if it is going to remain a daily driver for the next year or so...by then you will be into a rock jock 60...

First link is for mounts for a 3" tube; his front axle has 2.5" tubes. Second link is for rear LCA mounts, which don't help on the aforementioned front axle and don't offer the protection necessary.
 
Considering the original posters Post:
It might be advisable to just find an axle with the R&P that matches and get a used axle. Bolt it on and tell the kid to go to school in it.
These hardened Jeep people upgrade all the time and there's Dana 30s from 97' thru 06' that are laying around in someone's garage or backyard or salvage yard that will bolt right up. Get a salvage yard control arm and call it done. Maybe find a Dana 30 with matching R&P for $100.
Beats the shit out of buying and welding new brackets and such.
If your kid just needs a cool ride to school.... you're a star for cheap.
 
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I didn't see it mentioned but the control arm itself is pretty tweaked and the rubber bushings are pretty cracked and dry rotted. OEM-style control arms are cheap.
 
Everyone seems to agree what needs done to fix the problem regardless of exactly what to use.

I'll add that I would be temped to take the brackets that end up being removed and use them to smack the foreheads of both the seller of the TJ and the guy at the shop that told you that it needs way more (work and $$$) than it really needs to be fixed. OK maybe I wouldn't really go that far but that temptation...

The temptation is very strong to use the brackets as you suggested. The guy that sold it to me works as a county sheriff s I'm still trying to figure out if he just didn't know or was intentionally shady.
 
Thanks for all the information folks. Its given me a starting point on the ol' girl. Been 31 years since I've wrenched on a vehicle (outside of oil changes, replacing a spark plug, etc.) and I'm looking forward to it, however, it means I'm probably gonna be on here asking a lot of stupid questions due to ignorance.
 
I didn't see it mentioned but the control arm itself is pretty tweaked and the rubber bushings are pretty cracked and dry rotted. OEM-style control arms are cheap.

Hadn't been mentioned but I had planned on replacing the control arms anyway. Figured that anything that could cause damage to the brackets like that probably tweaked the arms as well. Thanks for the heads up.
 
This statement caught my eye. Recentering the wheel is easy. I did mine when I adjsuted toe in. If your jeep had a lift, and the lift was removed, did the lift include adjustable track bar? If so, and the PO didn't bother centering the steering wheel, I wonder if he bother to center the axle. If you have a non adjustable or original track bar, than there's nothing needed, if you have stock suspension height.

According to the PO, it had a 3" lift but he removed it. However, It has 31's on it, when I compare it to the neighbors 97 sport our springs are beefier and the jeep seems to set higher. Gonna have to do some research and figure out what exactly is going on with the front end.
 
Measure the spring length on the jeep as it sits, there are measurements on how big the lift is based on that. Do a search, or you can look on the synergy website, it lists the spring length based on height. Tim
 
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