Need aftermarket blinkers: What do you guys think of these?

Do you think they would install in the bumper? It's far thicker metal than the grill but I'd much rather put them there because I hate to drill my grill and my winch hides the blinker when looking from the opposite side. Viability will be MUCH better on the bumper.....but the metal thickness concerns me. You think I'd need to notify the blinker enclosures some?

If you follow Jerry’s steps, the only change would be in his third picture, you would make those cuts in the light housing wide enough to fit the thickness of your bumper.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Xposure
You could go with something like this. I don't know how much room there is on that bumper to mount these, but you would just drill a hole big enough for the grommet (around 4.5 inches) then pop the light in the grommet and hook up the 3 wires.

http://optronicsinc.com/PRODUCTS/LEDLighting/LEDStopTurnTail/Products.aspx?SeriesID=826
Would look similar to this.

IMG_0655oo - Copy.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: Xposure
I’ve seen where someone made a template you can print out then tape to your grill and mark exact spots. I think I have it saved on my laptop and will check tonight when I get off work.

I guess it would be good if you very particular about precise placement.


This is what I had.


gallery_1_1_52428.png



gallery_1_1_62725.png
 
Another vote for the JK turns. No pictures yet but when I get home from this little vacation I'll finish it. Jeep is currently sitting at the airport with two holes in the grille. I didn't use the template just kind of eyeballed where I wanted one, tool some measurements to a few random reference points and went to town with the hole saw. FWIW I still need to do quite a bit of massaging with a Dremel to get the hole size right so if you could find like a 3-3/16" hole saw that might work better (do they even make those?).
 
Another vote for the JK turns. No pictures yet but when I get home from this little vacation I'll finish it. Jeep is currently sitting at the airport with two holes in the grille. I didn't use the template just kind of eyeballed where I wanted one, tool some measurements to a few random reference points and went to town with the hole saw. FWIW I still need to do quite a bit of massaging with a Dremel to get the hole size right so if you could find like a 3-3/16" hole saw that might work better (do they even make those?).
Finished it.

IMG_20200806_155413.jpg
 
FWIW I still need to do quite a bit of massaging with a Dremel to get the hole size right so if you could find like a 3-3/16" hole saw that might work better (do they even make those?).

Did you use OE jk turn signals? Mine were snug at 3-1/8. Too big of a hole and the light will be loose
 
Did you use OE jk turn signals? Mine were snug at 3-1/8. Too big of a hole and the light will be loose
Yes they were OE JK's and used a Milwaukee 3-1/8" hole saw. Maybe it was just my technique or something but when I first went to test fit them into the grille they stopped solid about halfway in. More than likely user error but nothing a Dremel couldn't take care of.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tworley
This reminds me of the JK folks. So what is the use of the original turn signal now?

A high line is in plans but not immediate. The lights were a nice reasonable price find that are much better than stock. While it was apart doing cooling system and removing the chrome grill cover seemed like easy time to try wiring. Will it be the final solution, who knows, but is an option.
 
Yes they were OE JK's and used a Milwaukee 3-1/8" hole saw. Maybe it was just my technique or something but when I first went to test fit them into the grille they stopped solid about halfway in. More than likely user error but nothing a Dremel couldn't take care of.
If they stopped half-way in that was due to the 3 ribs molded onto the exterior of the JK enclosures. That's why you need to cut the 3 notches into the opening described above. The notches are to allow the ribs to slide in. Notching the ribs at the very front allows the enclosure to be twist-locked into place.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Xposure
If they stopped half-way in that was due to the 3 ribs molded onto the exterior of the JK enclosures. That's why you need to cut the 3 notches into the opening described above. The notches are to allow the ribs to slide in. Notching the ribs at the very front allows the enclosure to be twist-locked into place.
I followed your write up exactly with notching for the ribs and everything. Not sure what I did to end up there but either way it's all installed properly and as a bonus now that the LED's in the poison spyder fenders aren't being used as turn signals it fixed my issue with the turn signal alarm going off whenever my headlights were on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
Some short videos of the light install I came up with. The rear lights are bonded to the tub, I did not want to create more or larger holes.
 

Attachments

  • Jepp Rear Night.mov
    14.4 MB
  • Jeep Rear Blinkers.mov
    22.2 MB
  • Jeep Front Blinkers.mov
    16.2 MB
If they stopped half-way in that was due to the 3 ribs molded onto the exterior of the JK enclosures. That's why you need to cut the 3 notches into the opening described above. The notches are to allow the ribs to slide in. Notching the ribs at the very front allows the enclosure to be twist-locked into place.

This is the way to do it, yet I messed up one light by making the notches in it too wide. I was pretty bummed out until I though about JB weld and used it to thicken up the grille itself. 12 hrs later, insert and twist and everything is fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford