Need help before removing transfer case skid on 03 Rubicon

Jps0311

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North Carolina
So, I was getting ready to remove the skid plate in preparation for grinding down some rust and re-painting, but wanted to be sure I'm following the proper procedure. I analyzed everything for about 20 minutes before removing any bolts and have some questions...

From what I have read, it should be as easy as supporting the transmission, removing the 4 small tranny mounting bolts, and then removing the (6)? skid plate bolts....

First question - I have 8 skid plate bolts. There appears to be a secondary piece with longer arms that extend the skid plate to the front. Should I remove this as a separate piece. Is this an aftermarket piece or standard on the Rubicons.

91152


Next, I found another bracket that appears to be bolted onto the skid plate in the rear. It appears to be some type of wiring harness. This also needs to be removed as well, correct? I haven't seen anyone else have to deal with this additional bracket attachment...

91153


Last question, where exactly should I support the transmission before dropping the skid plate. Thank you!
 
Last edited:
Grinding down rust and repainting? Holy Wha, that is one clean under carriage.
Yeah, it's really not in bad shape at all - just doing some preventative cleaning. There is some surface rust in between where the skid plate and frame used to meet that I want to clean up and re-paint. The previous owner also added a tcase drop kit when he put on the 2 inch OME lift which from what I understand may not have been necessary so I want to see if I can get away with removing it.
 
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To answer the question about the transmission. My personal preference is to support the from the bell housing. I use a soft piece of wood and a small floor jack.

I heavy cheat on lowering the skid plate. I use a motorcycle/atv jack.

It is as heavy as it looks.


Edit for last minute thought. I also use the motorcycle Jack to lower the gas tank when needed.
 
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That must be a Rubicon. The wiring harness thing is the diff lock compressor. Just take it loose so you don’t jerk the wires loose
 
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So, I was getting ready to remove the skid plate in preparation for grinding down some rust and re-painting, but wanted to be sure I'm following the proper procedure. I analyzed everything for about 20 minutes before removing any bolts and have some questions...

From what I have read, it should be as easy as supporting the transmission, removing the 4 small tranny mounting bolts, and then removing the (6)? skid plate bolts....

First question - I have 8 skid plate bolts. There appears to be a secondary piece with longer arms that extend the skid plate to the front. Should I remove this as a separate piece. Is this an aftermarket piece or standard on the Rubicons.

View attachment 91152

Next, I found another bracket that appears to be bolted onto the skid plate in the rear. It appears to be some type of wiring harness. This also needs to be removed as well, correct? I haven't seen anyone else have to deal with this additional bracket attachment...

View attachment 91153

Last question, where exactly should I support the transmission before dropping the skid plate. Thank you!
1st question. The smaller crossmember in front, with only two bolts in it, is a transmission support. It was only used on Autos and is generally thrown away once the vehicle is lifted. It is a factory piece though. It also holds the transmission skid (the small piece running lengthwise between the smaller crossmember and the larger T-case skid). It will need to be removed.

2nd question. That bracket holds your locker air pumps. There are 4 bolts that hold that bracket to the skid. Remove those 4 bolts and the bracket will be fine just hanging out.

Finally, I support the whole works with a jack stand under the bell housing. Put a piece of wood on it, get it as close as you can. Remove the Transmission mount bolts in the skid (4 of them). Then I support the skid with a motorcycle jack (regular works too, just not as easily). Remove the skid plate bolts and start to lower the skid. It you should see the transmission dropping with the skid, until it hits the jack stand. Finish dropping the T-case skid, and wrestle it out from under the jeep.

Good Luck!
 
So, I was getting ready to remove the skid plate in preparation for grinding down some rust and re-painting, but wanted to be sure I'm following the proper procedure. I analyzed everything for about 20 minutes before removing any bolts and have some questions...

From what I have read, it should be as easy as supporting the transmission, removing the 4 small tranny mounting bolts, and then removing the (6)? skid plate bolts....

First question - I have 8 skid plate bolts. There appears to be a secondary piece with longer arms that extend the skid plate to the front. Should I remove this as a separate piece. Is this an aftermarket piece or standard on the Rubicons.

View attachment 91152

Next, I found another bracket that appears to be bolted onto the skid plate in the rear. It appears to be some type of wiring harness. This also needs to be removed as well, correct? I haven't seen anyone else have to deal with this additional bracket attachment...

View attachment 91153

Last question, where exactly should I support the transmission before dropping the skid plate. Thank you!
Just saw the Rubicon statement. My bad. Hope you get it done easy enough. If you don’t have help with the skid, just take one side loose and leave one bolt on the other side and remove slowly so you only have to catch one side. You can start a bolt on one side with the other just propped up on a block.
 
So, I was getting ready to remove the skid plate in preparation for grinding down some rust and re-painting, but wanted to be sure I'm following the proper procedure. I analyzed everything for about 20 minutes before removing any bolts and have some questions...

From what I have read, it should be as easy as supporting the transmission, removing the 4 small tranny mounting bolts, and then removing the (6)? skid plate bolts....

First question - I have 8 skid plate bolts. There appears to be a secondary piece with longer arms that extend the skid plate to the front. Should I remove this as a separate piece. Is this an aftermarket piece or standard on the Rubicons.

View attachment 91152

Next, I found another bracket that appears to be bolted onto the skid plate in the rear. It appears to be some type of wiring harness. This also needs to be removed as well, correct? I haven't seen anyone else have to deal with this additional bracket attachment...

View attachment 91153

Last question, where exactly should I support the transmission before dropping the skid plate. Thank you!
Just saw the Rubicon statement. My bad. Hope you get it done easy enough. If you don’t have help with the skid, just take one side loose and leave one bolt on the other side and remove slowly so you only have to catch one side. You can start a bolt on one side with the other just propped up on a block.
 
So, I was getting ready to remove the skid plate in preparation for grinding down some rust and re-painting, but wanted to be sure I'm following the proper procedure. I analyzed everything for about 20 minutes before removing any bolts and have some questions...

From what I have read, it should be as easy as supporting the transmission, removing the 4 small tranny mounting bolts, and then removing the (6)? skid plate bolts....

First question - I have 8 skid plate bolts. There appears to be a secondary piece with longer arms that extend the skid plate to the front. Should I remove this as a separate piece. Is this an aftermarket piece or standard on the Rubicons.

View attachment 91152

Next, I found another bracket that appears to be bolted onto the skid plate in the rear. It appears to be some type of wiring harness. This also needs to be removed as well, correct? I haven't seen anyone else have to deal with this additional bracket attachment...

View attachment 91153

Last question, where exactly should I support the transmission before dropping the skid plate. Thank you!
Just saw the Rubicon statement. My bad. Hope you get it done easy enough. If you don’t have help with the skid, just take one side loose and leave one bolt on the other side and remove slowly so you only have to catch one side. You can start a bolt on one side with the other just propped up on a block.
 
Apologies for what may be a stupid question, but is this where I should place my support? Look like I'll have to get the tranny skid out of the way first.

91271
 
Apologies for what may be a stupid question, but is this where I should place my support? Look like I'll have to get the tranny skid out of the way first.

View attachment 91271
You can take that small skid off the front first. It's not supporting anything. That will give you a place to support the tranny.
 
So, I was getting ready to remove the skid plate in preparation for grinding down some rust and re-painting, but wanted to be sure I'm following the proper procedure. I analyzed everything for about 20 minutes before removing any bolts and have some questions...

From what I have read, it should be as easy as supporting the transmission, removing the 4 small tranny mounting bolts, and then removing the (6)? skid plate bolts....

First question - I have 8 skid plate bolts. There appears to be a secondary piece with longer arms that extend the skid plate to the front. Should I remove this as a separate piece. Is this an aftermarket piece or standard on the Rubicons.

View attachment 91152

Next, I found another bracket that appears to be bolted onto the skid plate in the rear. It appears to be some type of wiring harness. This also needs to be removed as well, correct? I haven't seen anyone else have to deal with this additional bracket attachment...

View attachment 91153

Last question, where exactly should I support the transmission before dropping the skid plate. Thank you!

How did this project end up? Any pics or details of cleaning products used?

My muffler rusted through, and both hangers are also off, so I will be replacing the muffler and plan to drop the skid plate to access the bolts connecting the muffler to the catalytic converter. Like you, I want to clean up the skid plate while it's off, so curious to know how this project went for you?
 
How did this project end up? Any pics or details of cleaning products used?

My muffler rusted through, and both hangers are also off, so I will be replacing the muffler and plan to drop the skid plate to access the bolts connecting the muffler to the catalytic converter. Like you, I want to clean up the skid plate while it's off, so curious to know how this project went for you?
Removing the skid is super easy if your bolts and nutserts aren't toast. When reinstalling your bolts coat them generously in anti sieze so future you will have an easier time. Support the trans at all times.
 
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Removing the skid is super easy if your bolts and nutserts aren't toast. When reinstalling your bolts coat them generously in anti sieze so future you will have an easier time. Support the trans at all times.
But once you add anti-seize to the bolts, only torque down to 80% of the factory torque spec or you'll strip out a nutsert and then want to go shoot yourself.
 
Removing the skid is super easy if your bolts and nutserts aren't toast. When reinstalling your bolts coat them generously in anti sieze so future you will have an easier time. Support the trans at all times.

Agreed, seems very straightforward with the exception of rusted nutserts, bolts and the tranny mount's nuts. I was curious to know what the OP used to clean the skid plate and what he prep/painted with. I am scared of the bolts and nutserts though, but I have a great nutsert tool and plenty of nutserts and bolts so I am ready to go once the muffler arrives next week.
 
Agreed, seems very straightforward with the exception of rusted nutserts, bolts and the tranny mount's nuts. I was curious to know what the OP used to clean the skid plate and what he prep/painted with. I am scared of the bolts and nutserts though, but I have a great nutsert tool and plenty of nutserts and bolts so I am ready to go once the muffler arrives next week.
Ideally you dont need any of that. I soaked mine in liquid wrench for a week and then heated them before attempting to break them loose. Mines also been a Colorado jeep its whole life so your experience may drastically vary.
 
Ideally you dont need any of that. I soaked mine in liquid wrench for a week and then heated them before attempting to break them loose. Mines also been a Colorado jeep its whole life so your experience may drastically vary.

I started soaking them in liquid wrench as well, to the point my driveway is stained (haha). I just liked to be prepared for the worst, and I already had the nutsert tool from a prior project (GR8TOPS hardtop) so I am good to go. Thanks for your input!
 
But once you add anti-seize to the bolts, only torque down to 80% of the factory torque spec or you'll strip out a nutsert and then want to go shoot yourself.

Wow, that's a super helpful tip. Did you learn that the hard way? I wish I had known it sooner, but I guess I've gotten lucky so far.
 
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