Need help , brakes sticking on a road trip

AndyG

Because some other guys are perverts
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I’m in Gatlinburg , 200 miles from home , new carbon metallic pads on stock rotors, 45,000 miles .
Fresh fluid . Lubed sliders.

Went through a slow motor tour trail..pavement

Jeep starts feeling held back.

Pull over ..both front rotors smoking , holding jeep back.

Will it be ok for the road once it cools down ? Any other input welcome .

03 TJ Rubicon , 33” tires.
 
Were there divots in your knuckles when you changed the pads? Guessing there are and the new pads are hanging there and dragging.

I'll be surprised if you don't end up with warped rotors. You may have to take a few cool down stops along the way. Wish I had a quick fix for you.
 
I’m in Gatlinburg , 200 miles from home , new carbon metallic pads on stock rotors, 45,000 miles .
Fresh fluid . Lubed sliders.

Went through a slow motor tour trail..pavement

Jeep starts feeling held back.

Pull over ..both front rotors smoking , holding jeep back.

Will it be ok for the road once it cools down ? Any other input welcome .

03 TJ Rubicon , 33” tires.
With the rotors showing high resistance to turning, open bleeder carefully. If the resistance goes away, the problem is upstream from the caliper, likely a brake line. If the resistance stays the same, the caliper pistons are sticking/stuck and will need to be freed up to continue or the same may happen again. There are other things that can cause this but most likely you installed new pads, did not do a full fluid flush and then when you pushed the pistons in, you trapped the crap that was in the caliper bore.
 
Is it possible to bleed brakes with worn pads , later install new pads, new pads push caliper back further and system then has too much fluid...then get them hot , expansion occurs...then of course they stick and further heat up ?
 
Is it possible to bleed brakes with worn pads , later install new pads, new pads push caliper back further and system then has too much fluid...then get them hot , expansion occurs...then of course they stick and further heat up ?
The system has a very adept excess fluid level control. It runs out the top of the master cylinder reservoir. Otherwise, you wouldn't be able to push the pistons in.

If you have a failing booster, it can self apply a small amount which can move the pistons in the master forward which covers the replenishment holes and can cause the brakes to self apply, get hot, expand the fluid in the caliper, and then self apply further. That is why you need to do the test with the bleeder when there is resistance to turning them.
 
The system has a very adept excess fluid level control. It runs out the top of the master cylinder reservoir. Otherwise, you wouldn't be able to push the pistons in.

If you have a failing booster, it can self apply a small amount which can move the pistons in the master forward which covers the replenishment holes and can cause the brakes to self apply, get hot, expand the fluid in the caliper, and then self apply further. That is why you need to do the test with the bleeder when there is resistance to turning them.
Thank you.

It cooled off , and I‘ve driven for 50-60 miles with no overheated fronts , it doesn’t feel like the the stopping power is as good as it was before this episode....that could be in my head at this point .

I just know I’m outside of Knoxville, headed to Huntsville , have work tomorrow ...never thrilled about this long dark ride .

Thanks again so much.