Need help installing Zone 4 inch lift

thrasherbb

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Feb 13, 2021
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Location
Ohio
My friend and I began putting a Zone 4 inch lift on my Jeep TJ today. We spent the day cutting bolts and trying to get stubborn nuts off. Using the instructions that zone provided for me I removed my control arms and began trying to remove the old springs and install the new ones. Well I guess the axle shifted when we removed the driver side control arm. We managed to get both front springs on but my axle is way out of alignment and the control arm mounts are no where near where they should be, I managed to get the wheels back on so the vehicle can sit on its own weight and maybe straighten it out but still not even close. The front pumpkin is tilted forward dramatically, and the whole axle is shifted horribly. I'm not sure where to go from here or what to do. I know you guys know what you're talking about any any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
My friend and I began putting a Zone 4 inch lift on my Jeep TJ today. We spent the day cutting bolts and trying to get stubborn nuts off. Using the instructions that zone provided for me I removed my control arms and began trying to remove the old springs and install the new ones. Well I guess the axle shifted when we removed the driver side control arm. We managed to get both front springs on but my axle is way out of alignment and the control arm mounts are no where near where they should be, I managed to get the wheels back on so the vehicle can sit on its own weight and maybe straighten it out but still not even close. The front pumpkin is tilted forward dramatically, and the whole axle is shifted horribly. I'm not sure where to go from here or what to do. I know you guys know what you're talking about any any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Any pics? I have absolutely no idea how to help you but pictures will likely help others.
 
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I sense a late night frustration after a long day of busting seized bolts. Take a break, hydrate and eat, go for a walk.

You need to support the axle to prevent tilting, either from the pinion side against the frame, or in the front against the tie rod or dif cover if yours has ridges to use as support.
You also need to use some sort of wheel chocks to prevent rolling.

Alternatively, attach control arms 1st and then do springs.
If you need to remove control arms to allow axle to drop lower, do one side at a time, this way attached side will keep axle from tilting.


Remove springs and start over with clear head.
 
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Ratchet straps, come alongs and winches are great at wrastlin axles back into place.

I had my wife scoot over my Dana 30 today to get my track bar bolt back in with a 6' rock bar wedged under the tire.

Bottle jack helps with pinion angles.

You can do it!

-Mac

P.S. you want all the suspension pieces...control arms, track bars, brackets in without the springs so you can cycle the suspension and check to make sure you're bump stops are long enough to stop the smash.
 
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I sense a late night frustration after a long day of busting seized bolts. Take a break, hydrate and eat, go for a walk.

You need to support the axle to prevent tilting, either from the pinion side against the frame, or in the front against the tie rod or dif cover if yours has ridges to use as support.
You also need to use some sort of wheel chocks to prevent rolling.

Remove springs and start over with clear head.

Any pics? I have absolutely no idea how to help you but pictures will likely help others.

Late night frustration would be correct. Here are some pictures to clarify. As you can see the springs are severely bent in a bad way. The several hours I put into putting those springs in would kill me taking them back out again, but I appreciate the kind words.
 
Late night frustration would be correct. Here are some pictures to clarify. As you can see the springs are severely bent in a bad way. The several hours I put into putting those springs in would kill me taking them back out again, but I appreciate the kind words.

I edited my reply a bit, and i cant view your picture format.
If you cant come up with a REASONABLE AND SAFE way to force that axle to tilt back with springs on, springs have to go. Under the Jeep is no place to be frustrated with stupid ideas :)

I would do control arms 1st.
If you need more space, and control arm is preventing axle from going lower, do one side at a time. Disconnect one side, i think lower CA is the binding point, so disconnect lower CA, and keep both CAs on other side connected to keep axle from tilting.
 
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I've done several lifts, and inevitably we end up in this exact same spot. To get over the hurdle we've tried everything suggested above and then some. But I'm with you, I refuse to take the springs out, as those are usually the hardest things to get in, because we never get the jeep up high enough to droop the axle enough to make the spring part easy (despite what others here say to the contrary). Anyway, the brute force way is hard and frustrating, but it will eventually work. Sometimes we'll have 2 jacks pushing & pulling at various spots on the diff to make it rotate this way or that, and ratchet straps can help but it's not always convenient.

On the advice of somebody here once, we got one arm completely in (after the springs), and then connected the axle side of the other arm, leaving the frame side for last....possibly with the wheels on & the jeep no longer jacked, I can't recall now. With some well placed & correct amount of coercion from a jack on the axle, the frame side control arm lined right up.
 
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Did you drill the hole in the axle mount to move the trackbar bolt over (or get an adjustable track bar)? For the pinion angle issue, that's control arm adjustments. If the control arms aren't adjustable you might need to get adjustable arms. The zone kit is just the base "required", but that doesn't make it a great kit.
 
Ratchet straps, come alongs and winches are great at wrastlin axles back into place.

I had my wife scoot over my Dana 30 today to get my track bar bolt back in with a 6' rock bar wedged under the tire
You can start the Jeep up and turn the steering wheel with the tires on the ground to get the bolt back in also.
 
Even with steering disconnected?

with the steering disconnected completely, no. But with just the track bar disconnected, turning the wheel will effectively slide the axle back and forth (potentially) lining things up. With the track bar connected, the steering wheel will actually turn the wheels instead (like you probably expect). I usually save the track bar for last because of how easy it is to line it up. On the rear, however, the track bar gives me nothing but problems, even with ratchet straps. One day I'll figure out the trick for it.
 
Ratchet straps, come alongs and winches are great at wrastlin axles back into place.

I had my wife scoot over my Dana 30 today to get my track bar bolt back in with a 6' rock bar wedged under the tire.

Bottle jack helps with pinion angles.

You can do it!

-Mac

P.S. you want all the suspension pieces...control arms, track bars, brackets in without the springs so you can cycle the suspension and check to make sure you're bump stops are long enough to stop the smash.

Were you pulling with a ratchet strap with the wheels on the ground?
 
I reconnected steering but not track bar and tried to turn the wheels. The axle is severely out of alignment and shifted several inches on the drivers side, I don't know what to do and just want this to be over with.
 
Those springs will fight you, and they're strong. I think it's time to remove the springs. Then get al 4 control arms reattached, bolts through holes but not necessarily nutted. You need to get that axle straightened out before proceeding. Then remove the axle bolt for the lower control arm on one side at a time, to let that side down. Lift the other end of the axle up, which will tilt the free end down farther. Don't stretch your brake hoses. Install a spring, with the control arms on the other side keeping the axle straight.
 
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Those springs will fight you, and they're strong. I think it's time to remove the springs. Then get al 4 control arms reattached, bolts through holes but not necessarily nutted. You need to get that axle straightened out before proceeding. Then remove the axle bolt for the lower control arm on one side at a time, to let that side down. Lift the other end of the axle up, which will tilt the free end down farther. Don't stretch your brake hoses. Install a spring, with the control arms on the other side keeping the axle straight.

I agree at this point that taking the springs out is necessary. I just hope I can straighten out axle once I do so.
 
I reconnected steering but not track bar and tried to turn the wheels. The axle is severely out of alignment and shifted several inches on the drivers side, I don't know what to do and just want this to be over with.

Where in Ohio are you?