Need help with solving the various leaks on my 4.0 auto
- Thread starter RavenDork
- Start date
I do, and did. Twice. Scroll back, you can see for yourself.
If it's the shaft selector seal, how is cardboard below the jeep going to tell him that? The leak will come up through the seal and then run to the back of the case due to the tilt of the transmission. From there it will go over the rear corner edge and go to the pan lip, where it will run the full length of the back of the pan. Eventually that lip will be able to hold no more, and it will drip into the skid plate. That will eventually fill up the skid plate and drip out of whichever opening is the lowest.
But no, your way is good too.
WestCoastDan
TJ Addict
My very non-expert opinion is to start with a pressure washer and some engine cleaner.
Get the built up gunk and such out of the way.
It will make both diagnosing the root cause(s) and repair(s) far easier.
Get the built up gunk and such out of the way.
It will make both diagnosing the root cause(s) and repair(s) far easier.
Regarding the engine oil leaks, my timing cover and oil pan looked like yours until I replaced the front main seal in the timing cover. I also installed a new harmonic balancer, timing chain, chain tensioner, and sprockets while I was in there. The old chain was noisy and stretched, and the little plastic/rubber tensioner was snapped in half, so I'm glad I changed that stuff. The front is now super clean and happy. Also, I believe I ordered a new timing cover, which was much better than trying to clean the old one...it wasn't very expensive.
I then did the rear main seal using a Mopar seal with 0 offset (using a very light amount of RTV where the ends meet). It's wise to use a shoe horn (like what comes in the felpro kit or make your own) so you don't cut the outside of the seal during installation into the block. I changed the oil pump and pickup tube with Melling parts while I was in there. The pickup tube was very loose fitting in the pump so I'm glad I changed it. No more RMS leak (for now). Also, don't forget to use anaerobic sealant on the bearing cap. Look into this on the forum before attempting.
You may have a valve cover leak as well, so it's likely worth looking into (make sure to check the back side of the engine).
I then did the rear main seal using a Mopar seal with 0 offset (using a very light amount of RTV where the ends meet). It's wise to use a shoe horn (like what comes in the felpro kit or make your own) so you don't cut the outside of the seal during installation into the block. I changed the oil pump and pickup tube with Melling parts while I was in there. The pickup tube was very loose fitting in the pump so I'm glad I changed it. No more RMS leak (for now). Also, don't forget to use anaerobic sealant on the bearing cap. Look into this on the forum before attempting.
You may have a valve cover leak as well, so it's likely worth looking into (make sure to check the back side of the engine).
Last edited:
ChasUGC
TJ Enthusiast
I'm sorry, but this is not the disrespectful way that I talk to people and I refuse to participate in such bullying behavior. This is why I didn't react to your first attacks. Good luck.
I was asking bc you said u used a lot of red loctite. I was thinking u might have meant the anaerobic gasket maker (which is red).
I've used cardboard to help find leaks and it does help. White cardboard is the best so you can see the color. But, before you do any of that, take a good look around. It will give you some idea of where the leak probably is because dust and gunk will probably be caked around the leak area. Then, pressure wash all the areas with degreaser. Then, run it a bit and then park it over the cardboard. Let it sit till you see the leaks on the cardboard and then follow it up.
chrlsful
New Member
I’m a bit different (or may B not).
I’d look at the floor or ground 1st B4 running or moving the vehicle.
Newspaper (weighted dwn if not indoor garage space) etc. Flash lght, hands’n knees, etc.
If not spotted (after an over nite sit) only then start up. (fan spreads the drip). This is
2 C if engine pressure is needed to drip the solution. Look again. (dont wanna run it dwn
the rd as this adds more air currents to the fan one and really pushes the stuff around obscuring
location. Roll it back over a ‘spotting sheet (as suggested white card board). Look now, in am if needed.
Color, smell, yes, even taste (if needed) can ID these fluids. Also regular maintenance. If going thru crankcase
oil quickly, need for fill up there or w/transmis or radiator. R U always greasing fittings (w/lill to no off rding)?
Last, still not locating? Pressure wash the rig (under hood, underneath) & try above again. I do this last 1 almost yrly as
I use lambs fat (lanolin ina 1gal can) 1X yr for rust prevention (cant remember brand - red/grey company). Not waxwool, other.
Finally, if leak not bad remember itsa ’truck’ (jeep) not an expensive limo, sports car or other. They’re gunna do this a lill !
I’d look at the floor or ground 1st B4 running or moving the vehicle.
Newspaper (weighted dwn if not indoor garage space) etc. Flash lght, hands’n knees, etc.
If not spotted (after an over nite sit) only then start up. (fan spreads the drip). This is
2 C if engine pressure is needed to drip the solution. Look again. (dont wanna run it dwn
the rd as this adds more air currents to the fan one and really pushes the stuff around obscuring
location. Roll it back over a ‘spotting sheet (as suggested white card board). Look now, in am if needed.
Color, smell, yes, even taste (if needed) can ID these fluids. Also regular maintenance. If going thru crankcase
oil quickly, need for fill up there or w/transmis or radiator. R U always greasing fittings (w/lill to no off rding)?
Last, still not locating? Pressure wash the rig (under hood, underneath) & try above again. I do this last 1 almost yrly as
I use lambs fat (lanolin ina 1gal can) 1X yr for rust prevention (cant remember brand - red/grey company). Not waxwool, other.
Finally, if leak not bad remember itsa ’truck’ (jeep) not an expensive limo, sports car or other. They’re gunna do this a lill !
He's likely got multiple leaks going on.
My timing cover looked like his for a long time. Notice where the dirt stops accumulating...which means it's likely coming from the front crank seal instead from above at the valve cover. He likely needs a new seal in the timing cover. As it gets worse, it will run along the bottom of the pan and even can get to the transmission pan.
That's not to say he doesn't also have a valve cover leak or leaking RMS.
For the front seal:
- pull the fan and radiator
- pull the harmonic balancer / crank pulley
- pull cover
- clean gasket material and pull seal / or buy a new cover
- Install seal in cover
- install in reverse order
(this is if you don't change the harmonic balancer or chain and sprockets)
Before:
The leak got really bad at the end sending oil to the back of my pan and to my transmission pan. The harmonic balancer flung oil all over, including up, which is why things are wet above the cover and on the WP pulley. The valve cover was not leaking.
Don’t do what the PO did…sealant over the seal.
Notice the cracks…
Today:
Bonus shot of the pan and RMS:
Last edited:
I’m mainly here to get bullied no need for OP at this point.
I can probably give as much as you want, but from an effort to response ratio, you may want to seek out Blaine.
…..you fucktard.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
chrlsful
New Member
“...hasn't been here in 7 days..."
let’s discuss among ourselves then, eh?
one site we have threads re-opened after 17, 14 yrs. U no how
this XenForo works, it lists “similar threads”. Some newbie just clicks
on 1’n reads/drops a post. That wakes up all the notifications of posters
to that thread decades ago. We all get called out outa da dark, rub the sleepers
out our eyes and pipe up. ’S all in good fun if U ask me. I dont needa OP...
8^ 0
aint he dead’n buried by now, sold the rig (blew up ina fire?)
let’s discuss among ourselves then, eh?
one site we have threads re-opened after 17, 14 yrs. U no how
this XenForo works, it lists “similar threads”. Some newbie just clicks
on 1’n reads/drops a post. That wakes up all the notifications of posters
to that thread decades ago. We all get called out outa da dark, rub the sleepers
out our eyes and pipe up. ’S all in good fun if U ask me. I dont needa OP...
8^ 0
aint he dead’n buried by now, sold the rig (blew up ina fire?)
I know, right?
I can't be the only one wondering in what disrespectful way he does talk to people.
Similar threads
