Need help with wiring electric radiator fan

Chris do you have any knowledge on wiring??? Please Can you help me ?
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how does this work a wire conencts to the thermostat coming from the coolant housing??
I'm trying unsuccessfully to find a way to kinda point out the obvious here in a nice way. That is the most basic of wiring. If this is a struggle, the supercharger and getting it all working correctly without blowing something up is going to be a mighty struggle. I've read the descriptions of what has to be done to run the MP charger and I would struggle a bit with it.
 
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@mrblaine I am not sure if you are joking or not, but I really would be open to *help* fund this experiment with you and collaborate when and where I could. If you are willing to run such experiment, write up a detailed how-to with pictures, and report your findings periodically...I would be open to *help* fund it. iwould be dumb not to junp on board with somehting like this. We would need to talk about a ballpark price in a PM and I would have no issue paying half up front if we could agree on a price.

This kind of suggestion and common sense approach is what I am a fan of. This type of experiment and others is what I have been wanting to do for a while on this forum. This project would just make it that much better for not only the forum but all the Tj/LJ owners on it.
A few things. I don't joke about crap like that. If I believed for a second the e-fans for the 2.4 were capable of cooling stuff around here, I would have already done it. If I were going to do it, I would find a better fan and at least have some chance of success. Maybe the one from the later JK might work, no way am I trying the 2.4 fan. I'm 99% sure I understand why they didn't use it on the 4.0, I am not going to prove myself right by having to convert it back to mechanical.
I have never found a discussion about fan controllers where there wasn't some issue with reliability. I would start there with finding one before I turned one wrench on the conversion.
There are no aftermarket fans that I would try that I have ever seen. That leaves OEM and OEM is not cheap. Find a cheap OEM new fan and I'll consider the project. My helper put on an electric when we did his 4.0 swap. I'll find out the status of that one.
 
I'm trying unsuccessfully to find a way to kinda point out the obvious here. That is the most basic of wiring. If this is a struggle, the supercharger and getting it all working correctly without blowing something up is going to be a mighty struggle. I've read the descriptions of what has to be done to run the MP charger and I would struggle a bit with it.
Could you elaborate on what you believe is difficult about installing the MP SC? The only thing that seems difficult is the HP Tuner. And from what I’m told that will be done by someone else, well if I could get him to call back.
 
Could you elaborate on what you believe is difficult about installing the MP SC? The only thing that seems difficult is the HP Tuner. And from what I’m told that will be done by someone else, well if I could get him to call back.
Isn't there a liquid to liquid heat exchanger involved?
 
I’m going off memory, which isn’t great, but yes.
If that is accurate, there is a pump that circulates coolant. The pump has to be temp controlled somehow unless it just runs all the time. The plumbing for the coolant hoses has to be dealt with. There will or should be an exchanger for the charge air to blow through. That has coolant in it that will need to be sent to the cooling radiator with or without an electric fan on it. If it is in the grill, getting the coolant lines in and out will not be easy. If the radiator winds up under the tub, the length of the lines will need to be taken into account to keep the fluid circulation level correct.

The under tub version will need careful attention. I know beyond a doubt that the under tub trans coolers with a fan on them are only about 1/2 as good as the ones in the grill at anything above crawling speed.

Getting that done cleanly and not looking hacked in there will take some time.
 
If that is accurate, there is a pump that circulates coolant. The pump has to be temp controlled somehow unless it just runs all the time. The plumbing for the coolant hoses has to be dealt with. There will or should be an exchanger for the charge air to blow through. That has coolant in it that will need to be sent to the cooling radiator with or without an electric fan on it. If it is in the grill, getting the coolant lines in and out will not be easy. If the radiator winds up under the tub, the length of the lines will need to be taken into account to keep the fluid circulation level correct.

The under tub version will need careful attention. I know beyond a doubt that the under tub trans coolers with a fan on them are only about 1/2 as good as the ones in the grill at anything above crawling speed.

Getting that done cleanly and not looking hacked in there will take some time.

Yes all of that is correct. I’m not sure if the pump is temp controlled but it will be mounted on the driver side battery tray. It is going to be a tight fit, really tight.
The cooler will be mounted behind the transfer case. If you have any suggestions on a fan it would be nice to know.
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Yes all of that is correct. I’m not sure if the pump is temp controlled but it will be mounted on the driver side battery tray. It is going to be a tight fit, really tight.
The cooler will be mounted behind the transfer case. If you have any suggestions on a fan it would be nice to know.
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I would use anything Spal for the fan. The key will be to get enough room over it to allow the air to move easily through the exchanger. My preference would be a long skinny exchanger with 2 or 3 smaller fans in a row across the face. With the other stuff you are doing, that is going to be a challenge.
 
I would use anything Spal for the fan. The key will be to get enough room over it to allow the air to move easily through the exchanger. My preference would be a long skinny exchanger with 2 or 3 smaller fans in a row across the face. With the other stuff you are doing, that is going to be a challenge.
Good to know, that’s what they sent. Several, yeah that might be difficult.
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If he is installing the MP SC why would you buy this? Charles sends an electric fan with the setup.
After talking to Charles at length they have had some cooling issues in AZ. The issue is stacking the coolers in the front and the winch limiting air. The solution that worked was placing the SC cooler behind the transfer case with its own fan.

Yes, Charles and I have had the same discussion.

I am pretty sure that the electric fan Charles includes doesn't come with a temperature controlled wring harness. In fact, I know it doesn't. Charles told me he usually just has people wire the electric fan up to an ignition control power source, so it's either always on or always off with the ignition.

However, he had told me that if you want, you can get a wiring harness like this so that the fan comes on like the factory fan does, only when the engine gets hot enough.
 
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What’s the downside to having it run all the time?
None. The only thing you would be doing differently is some sort of thermostatically controlled portion to slow down or speed up the circulation if you were trying to achieve a target temp. Likely the system doesn't have enough excess capacity to overcool the charge air and I'm pretty sure that isn't possible anyway. Based on the fact that one of the Dodge vehicles uses the AC to cool down the heat exchanger, it probably isn't likely that over cooling is an issue.
 
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If he is installing the MP SC why would you buy this? Charles sends an electric fan with the setup.
After talking to Charles at length they have had some cooling issues in AZ. The issue is stacking the coolers in the front and the winch limiting air. The solution that worked was placing the SC cooler behind the transfer case with its own fan.
I purchased this because my current radiator has a leak and in ordered to plan for the future I called Charles he tells me that his recommendations for running the kit is an aftermarket bigger radiator because in most cases the oem raditor cant hold enough power.
 
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Based on the info posted so far, the sensor in the kit is turning the fan on and off at specific temps. It will close the circuit to ground to trigger the relay that turns the fan on when a minimum temp is reached. If the fan is able to cool the system below that threshold, it will open the circuit and turn the fan off.

If it was on and off with the car's ignition, there would be no sensor.

For this kit I have to run the sensor ??? Or how do I connect it please the seller is so slow he wont reply until monday. I dont understand I can use the electric fan just when the car is off or on dont install temp sensor that had a wire connects to
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...-fw_AQ3OPaQtG4DloC9F7iGinnKFLPVRoCRVIQAvD_BwE
So i used this originally. You need to wire to a constant (positive battery), Switch (aux), Ground(negative battery). The temp probe I made a T from some pipe fittings from lowes into the heater line. Left the factory temp sensor alone.

Now I use this.....


Love it, have to order through his site but i dont have access to it at the momnent/ government network....

could I just leave the temp sensore alone? and just instal without thermostat
 
For this kit I have to run the sensor ??? Or how do I connect it please the seller is so slow he wont reply until monday. I dont understand I can use the electric fan just when the car is off or on dont install temp sensor that had a wire connects to
Did you miss my other post?