Need ideas for highline fenders

[Mike_H]

It's pretty tough to get into the fenders with factory suspension points. This is an assortment of budget parts, in factory mounting locations. 4" lift with 1.25" body lift. 35 x 12.5 x 17 tires on 4" BS wheels. I'm not into the fenders here. Other things are limiting my travel... Like the rear tub, and rear shocks. My tires will grab the flares, but not enough to do damage.

No highlines necessary.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I was thinking rampage

Confirmed

Post in thread 'Nashville TJ's Build Continued'
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/nashville-tjs-build-continued.42035/post-836858

Confirmed. I love the thing.

 

[LJtheunicorn]

It's pretty tough to get into the fenders with factory suspension points. This is an assortment of budget parts, in factory mounting locations. 4" lift with 1.25" body lift. 35 x 12.5 x 17 tires on 4" BS wheels. I'm not into the fenders here. Other things are limiting my travel... Like the rear tub, and rear shocks. My tires will grab the flares, but not enough to do damage.

No highlines necessary.

View attachment 293721

I’m planning to run 35x12.5x15 stt pro on a method 15x8 with 3.5 back spacing wheel. Aside from driveline and steering upgrades I can just swap in 4 inch springs or spring spacers to clear them then? Would a 3.5 backspacing whee work or would that need a spacer?

I have a 1.25 body lift that I haven’t installed yet but plan to before new tires

 

[BugoutJeep]

I'm not sure if it's the right category, but I have always wanted the MCE flat fenders.

I'm concerned that a hard hit would bend the tub and I'd rather bend one of the fenders or hood or something rather than the tub.

I do think those look amazing though. I do have a preference for the smaller fender flares if you can get away with it.

 

[mrblaine]

The walker evans are popular, but are heavy because they're for racing. Avoid them if you're concerned about weight. Wouldn't make sense to have aluminum fenders and WE racing beadlocks.

That Jeep was just sold a couple weeks ago, he bought a JLUR 392 in the similar blue. A few of us cried a little when he sold it.

Lloyd?

 

[JMT]

I'm not sure if it's the right category, but I have always wanted the MCE flat fenders.

I'm concerned that a hard hit would bend the tub and I'd rather bend one of the fenders or hood or something rather than the tub.

I do think those look amazing though. I do have a preference for the smaller fender flares if you can get away with it.

I would like a 0” too. We have coverage laws in WA. I’ve never been pulled over but probably shouldn’t press my luck. I like the MCE’s. I don’t love them.

 

[mrblaine]

I would like a 0” too. We have coverage laws in WA. I’ve never been pulled over but probably shouldn’t press my luck. I like the MCE’s. I don’t love them.



View attachment 293750



View attachment 293752

Do you know how thick the plastic is? Reason I ask is I use plastic shims for stuff from time to time and if anyone ever gives me a set of those flares, then I'll know which pile of scrap sorted by thickness to toss them into.

 

[BugoutJeep]

I would like a 0” too. We have coverage laws in WA. I’ve never been pulled over but probably shouldn’t press my luck. I like the MCE’s. I don’t love them.

Yeah and I worry (slightly) about travelling through some area with a coverage law. Looks don't mean that much to me when it comes to buying. I'll spend a little more on say color, but my fenders are pretty rough at this point and it wouldn't hurt to replace them and start trimming to get some additional flex, now that I've finished refreshing my suspension.

I only run 10.5" Wide tires, so hopefully it's less of an issue anyway, but I just kinda like having something I can touch off on stuff and not do any damage.

 

[JMT]

Do you know how thick the plastic is? Reason I ask is I use plastic shims for stuff from time to time and if anyone ever gives me a set of those flares, then I'll know which pile of scrap sorted by thickness to toss them into.

I can get that information to you as soon as you stop being an ass.

 

[jjvw]

Do you know how thick the plastic is? Reason I ask is I use plastic shims for stuff from time to time and if anyone ever gives me a set of those flares, then I'll know which pile of scrap sorted by thickness to toss them into.

I'll measure when I get home today. No strings attached!

 

[JMT]

Yeah and I worry (slightly) about travelling through some area with a coverage law. Looks don't mean that much to me when it comes to buying. I'll spend a little more on say color, but my fenders are pretty rough at this point and it wouldn't hurt to replace them and start trimming to get some additional flex, now that I've finished refreshing my suspension.

I only run 10.5" Wide tires, so hopefully it's less of an issue anyway, but I just kinda like having something I can touch off on stuff and not do any damage.

If you don’t live in a state with coverage laws I wouldn’t worry about it. If you hit these you will likely damage the plastic or it will rub on the tub and scuff the paint. Ask me how I know.

I got these as a cheap solution to replacing a fender I crushed on a tree. Ultimate goal is to get something else.

 

[mrblaine]

If you don’t live in a state with coverage laws I wouldn’t worry about it. If you hit these you will likely damage the plastic or it will rub on the tub and scuff the paint. Ask me how I know.

I got these as a cheap solution to replacing a fender I crushed on a tree. Ultimate goal is to get something else.

View attachment 293769

We had a guy with a big ass rig drive out here from Florida and run the trails in JV with us. He had one of those brush guards that extended over to protect his marker lights on the front of the fenders. We told him to take it off and leave it at camp. He declined. When he bent it back into the fender and took out the fender, he figured out why.

 

[BugoutJeep]

I try not to hit stuff, but we're in a lot of woods and I sometimes move some equipment around off-road and I just do what I have to do to get stuff where it needs to go.

The metal of my OEM fender is kinda bent, but it's holding up because the plastic takes the little bumps and I can't keep a turn signal in there. I think if I've got a substantial metal fender, then it's just gonna crumple, but the plastic can just be abused and easily replaced. The more stout that fender, the more force that's going to be distributed to the tub and grill depending on the hit. I'd rather keep it as flimsy as possible until an impact starts really destroying stuff that I can't do anything about at that point.

If it's substantial enough to bend the front grill, then it will likely mess up intercooler and radiator as well, which I don't want to replace. If I move a steel bar 3in it might bend more stuff internally, but the plastic is just gonna go away.

 

[Mike_H]

I’m planning to run 35x12.5x15 stt pro on a method 15x8 with 3.5 back spacing wheel. Aside from driveline and steering upgrades I can just swap in 4 inch springs or spring spacers to clear them then? Would a 3.5 backspacing whee work or would that need a spacer?

I have a 1.25 body lift that I haven’t installed yet but plan to before new tires

3.5 backspacing is pretty shallow. You shouldn't need any wheel spacers at that point. 4" of lift plus a small (1" or so) Body Lift is the common recommendation for 35's. However you get there is up to you. The "best" way is to get springs that balance well with your shock travel, so as the shock reaches full extension, the spring becomes unseated and as the shock hits full compression, you're up tight to your bumpstops...letting the shock take the last little bit of bump.

Its LOTS easier to write that out than accomplish in practice.

 

[JMT]

We had a guy with a big ass rig drive out here from Florida and run the trails in JV with us. He had one of those brush guards that extended over to protect his marker lights on the front of the fenders. We told him to take it off and leave it at camp. He declined. When he bent it back into the fender and took out the fender, he figured out why.

Seems I remember similar stories when you made suggestions to first timers at JV.

 

[LJtheunicorn]

3.5 backspacing is pretty shallow. You shouldn't need any wheel spacers at that point. 4" of lift plus a small (1" or so) Body Lift is the common recommendation for 35's. However you get there is up to you. The "best" way is to get springs that balance well with your shock travel, so as the shock reaches full extension, the spring becomes unseated and as the shock hits full compression, you're up tight to your bumpstops...letting the shock take the last little bit of bump.

Its LOTS easier to write that out than accomplish in practice.

Last time out I had springs unseating so I assume this means either spring shims or longer springs would be beneficial. I have old man emu springs and shocks

 

[Blake Stamper]

Poison spyder defender xc, painted with Steel it Grey.

 

[Blake Stamper]

I’m considering highlines to be my next thing after my old man emu/DPG lift to run 35’s. I like the look and am excited about the under hood changes that have to be made. But doing some more research before I jump into the project. Came across a set of aluminum nemesis high lines with inners battery tray and all for 600 bucks locally

I took the time to reorganize my engine bay while I was in there and it turned out pretty good, ill send some pics when I have chance.

 

[Mike_H]

Last time out I had springs unseating so I assume this means either spring shims or longer springs would be beneficial. I have old man emu springs and shocks

Longer springs or shorter shocks.

 

[jjvw]

Do you know how thick the plastic is? Reason I ask is I use plastic shims for stuff from time to time and if anyone ever gives me a set of those flares, then I'll know which pile of scrap sorted by thickness to toss them into.

I didn't have a caliper handy so we are going with 1/8".