New front axle shaft vs replacing front u joints

[04LJ]

Hi all

Any input on this would help. I am pretty sure it’s time to replace the front u joints on my LJ. Did the rear shaft last week. There is a slight squeak from the right front, sprayed the joint with WD40 and the squeak stopped, so I’m thinking time to get new ones in. My question is this:
The jeep has 160000K on it and is it better since I’m pulling the axle shaft out to just save up the $ and get whole new chrome moly shafts? I run 33in tires. Also, I would like to upgrade the steering, but with need to put in u joints, I would like to concentrate my efforts there for now. Maybe hold off on the steering until later? Thoughts.....and thanks for helping a newbie out, this forum has been a good resource

 

[jjvw]

Sounds like it's time to learn how to replace u joints.

Unless you are wanting to upgrade to cromoly shafts, it is cheaper to rebuild the old ones.

 

[Chris]

Well yes, of course it would be better to put chromoly axle shafts in. In fact, I highly advise doing that if you're running 33s and off-roading it any at all. As far as steering goes, check out this thread here: What is the best steering for my Jeep Wrangler TJ?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

For 33's, the front shafts are fine even with a locker. I'd install new Spicer 5-760x axle shaft u-joints and be done with it. Alloy shafts become the way to go with 35's.

 

[Steve Rodgers]

You may want to put new hubs in while you are in there, it’s not much extra work. I know some here say don’t use a ball joint press for u joints but my 97 TJ would have not been possible without one. Getting them out was a real challenge. Getting the new ones in was easy. I used a Dremel with a small flap wheel to polish up the bores a little.

 

[jjvw]

.... Getting the new ones in was easy. I used a Dremel with a small flap wheel to polish up the bores a little.

Hopefully it wasn't too easy.

 

[04LJ]

For 33's, the front shafts are fine even with a locker. I'd install new Spicer 5-760x axle shaft u-joints and be done with it. Alloy shafts become the way to go with 35's.

Thanks much. Sounds good to me and that’s what I’ll do Saves money for sure

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I used a Dremel with a small flap wheel to polish up the bores a little.

Not a good idea. Those u-joints are often a LOT of pressure trying to pull them free and polishing what they're seated in can just make that easier and more likely to happen. They depend on a good friction fit to remain seated in some situations.

 

[04LJ]

Not a good idea. Those u-joints are often a LOT of pressure trying to pull them free and polishing what they're seated in can just make that easier and more likely to happen. They depend on a good friction fit to remain seated in some situations.

So install with a socket and hammer? Any good ideas? How is it getting them out, the old ones? On my rear shaft they were pretty stuck, they were the originals. After almost 2 hours and no succes I brought the shaft to a shop and they got them out. So anyone’s past experience would be helpful. Thanks again

 

[jjvw]

I've only used a hammer and sockets on the axle shafts. At this point, I find it easier than using a ball joint press. The first time, I did it with the unit bearings still attached. The second time, I had the big 36mm socket needed to pull everything apart.

 

[04LJ]

So it’s looking like hammer and socket to get em in. I like the idea of new unit bearings too as these are probably original. From what I can tell it seems pretty straightforward to get those in. Any ideas on good unit bearings? I don’t want to break the bank as I would still like to replace the steering with the ZJ unit from crown. Thanks

 

[Drizit]

Yep as long as there is no rust where the cap actually sits don't do anything more aggressive than a good cleaning with a rag.

If you don't want to use a press and have a good bench vice it's easy to pop the joints out.

Put the ears in the vice without clamping it, just close the vice enough to the side that's horizontal sits on top of it.

Hit the base where the top vertical ear meets the body of the shaft with a bfh (after removing the clips of course) not on the shaft and not on the ear itself. (you don't want to bend it)

That will pop the cap out. Flip 180* and repeat. Then pull the free part of the shaft off. Repeat again but now with the join resting on the vice, this method if done right helps keep the ears from bending.

To reinstall you should be able to press the caps in part way by hand and use the vice and a socket to finish em off. Just be extra sure you don't let any of the needle bearings in the cap fall over during installation. If they do you will most likely blow the cap up when you press it in.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

 

[jjvw]

I put Timkin in mine. Still good after 30k miles. However, the factory unit bearings still seemed fine after 100k miles, so I keep them on a shelf because I can't throw things away.

 

[04LJ]

Yep as long as there is no rust where the cap actually sits don't do anything more aggressive than a good cleaning with a rag.

If you don't want to use a press and have a good bench vice it's easy to pop the joints out.

Put the ears in the vice without clamping it, just close the vice enough to the side that's horizontal sits on top of it.

Hit the base where the top vertical ear meets the body of the shaft with a bfh (after removing the clips of course) not on the shaft and not on the ear itself. (you don't want to bend it)

That will pop the cap out. Flip 180* and repeat. Then pull the free part of the shaft off. Repeat again but now with the join resting on the vice, this method if done right helps keep the ears from bending.

To reinstall you should be able to press the caps in part way by hand and use the vice and a socket to finish em off. Just be extra sure you don't let any of the needle bearings in the cap fall over during installation. If they do you will most likely blow the cap up when you press it in.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

Got it. I’ll look at some videos and keep these posts with me when I go for it. I’m new at wrenching and all of this is learning new things. I mean can change oil and little things but some of this can be a bit intimidating for now. Wish I was younger though....I’m 45 But hey, never too late to start!

 

[04LJ]

I put Timkin in mine. Still good after 30k miles. However, the factory unit bearings still seemed fine after 100k miles, so I keep them on a shelf because I can't throw things away.

So if the old ones are good, keep as a spare? They would be ok after being removed?

 

[Drizit]

So if the old ones are good, keep as a spare? They would be ok after being removed?

Depending on how you remove em.

If you use a big puller and just power em off, no. If you beat em off with a hammer, no.

If you use a deep socket and an friend, yes.

You pull the 3 12point 13mm hub bolts, turn the axle so the inner ears are vertical and the putter hears are horizontal. Put the deep socket between the outer ear and the axle tube and have your friend turn the wheel a bit to put enough pressure to hold the socket, then turn a bit more till the hub starts to come out a bit. Then switch to the other ear so it stays straight. After that it'll probably come out by hand.

Now if the hub is good I would be inclined to not throw parts at it but that's up to you. Just make sure you are careful getting those hub bolts out, they protrude all the way through so you pay want to wire brush the threads that stick out and spray em with some lube before you start to undo em. Also anti-seize the mating surfaces on whatever hub you install and the hub bolts. Also clean the knuckle bore with a wire brush.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

 

[mrblaine]

You may want to put new hubs in while you are in there, it’s not much extra work. I know some here say don’t use a ball joint press for u joints but my 97 TJ would have not been possible without one. Getting them out was a real challenge. Getting the new ones in was easy. I used a Dremel with a small flap wheel to polish up the bores a little.

We only say that because of the several bent yokes folks have sent us so we can try to straighten them back out to get the clip groove exposed enough to get a clip in. Also, as stated, the bore needs to be the correct dimension to retain the interference fit to support the cap properly under load when they are pressed in. You really don't want to remove any material at all from them.

 

[mrblaine]

Depending on how you remove em.

If you use a big puller and just power em off, no. If you beat em off with a hammer, no.

If you use a deep socket and an friend, yes.

You pull the 3 12point 13mm hub bolts, turn the axle so the inner ears are vertical and the putter hears are horizontal. Put the deep socket between the outer ear and the axle tube and have your friend turn the wheel a bit to put enough pressure to hold the socket, then turn a bit more till the hub starts to come out a bit. Then switch to the other ear so it stays straight. After that it'll probably come out by hand.

Now if the hub is good I would be inclined to not throw parts at it but that's up to you. Just make sure you are careful getting those hub bolts out, they protrude all the way through so you pay want to wire brush the threads that stick out and spray em with some lube before you start to undo em. Also anti-seize the mating surfaces on whatever hub you install and the hub bolts. Also clean the knuckle bore with a wire brush.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

This may help.

 

[04LJ]

This may help.

View attachment 45256

Thanks for the pic. I’m learning all of this ear, yoke and what not. It’s like a new language!

 

[04LJ]

Depending on how you remove em.

If you use a big puller and just power em off, no. If you beat em off with a hammer, no.

If you use a deep socket and an friend, yes.

You pull the 3 12point 13mm hub bolts, turn the axle so the inner ears are vertical and the putter hears are horizontal. Put the deep socket between the outer ear and the axle tube and have your friend turn the wheel a bit to put enough pressure to hold the socket, then turn a bit more till the hub starts to come out a bit. Then switch to the other ear so it stays straight. After that it'll probably come out by hand.

Now if the hub is good I would be inclined to not throw parts at it but that's up to you. Just make sure you are careful getting those hub bolts out, they protrude all the way through so you pay want to wire brush the threads that stick out and spray em with some lube before you start to undo em. Also anti-seize the mating surfaces on whatever hub you install and the hub bolts. Also clean the knuckle bore with a wire brush.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

Thanks for the heads up. I’ll be doing this relatively soon so before I dive in it’s good to hear other people’s experiences. Good thing it’s not my daily driver so if I mess up it’s not the worst outcome