New Leather Steering Wheel From Poland

I'd like to replace the leather steering wheel on my 06 as well, I saw the same YouTube video from the Australian, the replacement steering wheels though I'm finding on ebay are not leather. I'm assuming just a vinyl plastic or something of the sort. Anyone have any thoughts on how they feel/look vs. the stock leather steering wheel.
 
I'd like to replace the leather steering wheel on my 06 as well, I saw the same YouTube video from the Australian, the replacement steering wheels though I'm finding on ebay are not leather. I'm assuming just a vinyl plastic or something of the sort. Anyone have any thoughts on how they feel/look vs. the stock leather steering wheel.

Just get the one from Poland that the guys have linked, its a really nice recover and a delight to drive with compared to the 06 OEM version.

The Australian.
 
This actually has me interested, if for no other reason than using an Arduino in an automotive application. And audio controls would be nice. Maybe we could repurpose the additional controls for high idle or, like LJGreg mentioned, winch controls.

Winch controls may actually be easier than actual audio controls, as you only need to control a relay, and not a PWM signal and associated smoothing circuit

Definitely following this one. May have to pick up a WJ wheel just for this.

Slightly related, the function of the controls helps explain why sometimes if I press 'resume' it turns my cruise off. I had assumed it was something internal to the switch, now I know it may just be some resistance in the switch causing it to register to the ECU as the incorrect button.
 
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This actually has me interested, if for no other reason than using an Arduino in an automotive application.
If you want to play around you can read the J1850 bus messages without any additional components. There is code floating around that reads them. I think you need a special board to send messages but reading them is easy. It's just one wire and the J1850 bus goes to the OBD2 port so you can get the info there or at the cluster. Similar to what the ELM327 does but it's fun to write the code and read the messages yourself.
 
Maybe we could repurpose the additional controls for high idle or, like LJGreg mentioned, winch controls.

I would also be easy to use it as a hidden kill switch. For example, you need to hold down one of the buttons for 5 seconds to turn it on an off. The options are pretty endless now that I have the signals coming in reliably to the Arduino.
 
the more I think about this, the more interesting this arduino intercept of steering wheel commands becomes.

You could easily add features based on different modes. For example - you could long press cancel to switch the cruise controls to a different mode - maybe 'winch mode' which would then make your on/off buttons function as winch in/out (or similar). Long press again to go back to "lighting mode" and on/off controls your light bar. Long press again to go back to 'cruise mode'. Pretty interesting possibility and only limited by the number of output pins.

I'll definitely look into J1850 monitoring - i'd love to see some parameters like trans temp etc that aren't available over the normal ODB2 read from torque.

@LJGreg Missed your reply as I was typing mine. I agree...endless possibilities. Time for some scope creep ;)
 
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i'd love to see some parameters like trans temp etc that aren't available over the normal ODB2 read from torque.
Me too, I've read some people have found transmission broadcasts on Grand Cherokees but I've never see a message from the 42RLE on mine even with a separate TCM.
 
Me too, I've read some people have found transmission broadcasts on Grand Cherokees but I've never see a message from the 42RLE on mine even with a separate TCM.

Maybe a separate topic or thread should be started on this - doing some reading in the FSM, it seems the temp sensor is built into the range sensor, so the TCM gets a direct reading from the thermistor there of sump temps. Reading the 42RLE manual suggests its available with the DRBIII scan tool, which means it's there somewhere...
 
Another update.

I couldn't get the TJ PCM to properly detect the voltage drop using PWM so I ended up just replicating the resistor ladder that is in the steering wheel buttons themselves. It works great to capture the cruise controls signals and pass it along. I have a Clarion M508 for my stereo head unit and can't find the steering wheel control protocol anywhere (it isn't resistance based) so I bought a PAC SWI-RC to interface to it. I'm going to try and sniff the signal to decode it so I can just program it into the Arduino. If that doesn't work, i'll wire it in permanently using either PWM, the DigiPot, or another resistor ladder.

Here's the prototype board so far with some if it soldered in.

PHOTO-2020-06-03-19-21-35.jpg
 
This might be interesting. I'm definitely adding cruise control to mine - that and A/C are the ONLY "technology" items I'll have, but gotta have them. What I'm NOT going to do is run the cruise with buttons on the steering wheel - I'm too old skool for that and don't like them. But this might be a way to use the stock cruise with an aftermarket stalk controller.
 
All done. It may not be pretty but it works fantastic. I'll write up a parts list and a how-to later for anyone that wants to try this.

Well done, and doesn't look that bad. I look forward to the how-to. I assume you'll have the schematic and code?

I've been thinking of trying some custom etched PCB using the MSLA 3dprinter - this may be a good candidate.
 
bought one from a junkyard here in Thailand and had it shipped to a leather specialist in Bangkok.. I showed him the picture of the Poland dude.. paid $40 for the old wheel and $60 for the leather job..

love it.. it's like driving a new car..

100399_0.jpg 100590_0.jpg

IMG_20211206_102227.jpg
 
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Just wait until I have a steering wheel controlled winch! You might change your mind! :LOL::LOL::LOL:

Hey LJGreg, that steering wheel looks awesome. I found one on eBay and bought one (not with the new leather, just the WJ wheel). How does your WJ Steering Wheel match up with the Clock Spring? And do the WJ airbag connectors work work? Im assuming you have a TJ Clock Spring, WJ Wheel, and TJ Airbag? Because I don't think a WJ Airbag has the same connectors as a TJ Clock Spring. I have a WJ Wheel, WJ Airbag, and TJ Clock Spring and they don't work together.

My questions stem from my issue where; my TJ Clock Spring does not match up with the WJ Steering Wheel, so theres a gap between the two. And the plastic posts on the Clock Spring don't have anything to butt up against because there are no matching protrusions on the back of the WJ Steering Wheel, like there are on the TJ Steering Wheel. There are two different types of TJ Steering wheels, one is older with 2 spoke design and one is newer with 4 spoke design like yours and like the WJ. However, ALL TJ steering wheels have the same protrusions on the back side for fitment with the Clock Spring. But the WJ Steering Wheel does not. So I installed the WJ on my TJ and broke the Clock Spring when turning the vehicle. So now Im a little stuck with a lot of components. I'll attach a pic of the back of the wheels.

Thanks!

TJ Steering Back.jpg


WJ Steering Back.jpg
 
bought one from a junkyard here in Thailand and had it shipped to a leather specialist in Bangkok.. I showed him the picture of the Poland dude.. paid $40 for the old wheel and $60 for the leather job..

love it.. it's like driving a new car..

View attachment 294716

View attachment 294717

View attachment 294718

Dude that looks awesome! I have the exact same setup, but left drive. Same wheel, same camel dash. There's a company called Redline Products (website) and they make these leather steering wheels and shift boots etc. Do you know if your setup has extra padding behind the leather? It looks like it does. Because that steering wheel is actually quite thin feeling and it looks much thinker. Maybe thats because the original vinyl cover was much thinner than the leather? So the leather makes it look thicker? Or they added padding? Im trying to decide if I want this redline wheel cover to have padding or just use the leather. I'd do mine exactly like yours because yours looks perfect so I'm wondering if yours is leather only or also has added padding?
 
How does your WJ Steering Wheel match up with the Clock Spring?

My original TJ wheel looks more like the WJ wheel than the TJ pic you posted above. I have an 05 so this could be early model vs late model.

Here is my original wheel.

IMG_6084.jpeg


And here is my clockspring.

IMG_6082.jpeg


And here you can see how the wheel sits on the clockspring. It fits perfectly.

IMG_6081.jpeg


And do the WJ airbag connectors work work?

the WJ airbag is a dual staged so it has two connectors but they are the same type as the TJ. I'm not too sure if it would work properly if you only connected the green connector but since the TJ airbag bolts in just fine to the WJ wheel I am just running that one.

TJ airbag

IMG_6083.jpeg


WJ airbag

IMG_6085.jpeg
 
Dude that looks awesome! I have the exact same setup, but left drive. Same wheel, same camel dash. There's a company called Redline Products (website) and they make these leather steering wheels and shift boots etc. Do you know if your setup has extra padding behind the leather? It looks like it does. Because that steering wheel is actually quite thin feeling and it looks much thinker. Maybe thats because the original vinyl cover was much thinner than the leather? So the leather makes it look thicker? Or they added padding? Im trying to decide if I want this redline wheel cover to have padding or just use the leather. I'd do mine exactly like yours because yours looks perfect so I'm wondering if yours is leather only or also has added padding?

Ya it has a lot of extra padding underneath and it gives it a luxurious feel. I'm running a redline goods shift boot and can say the leather on the wheel feels like a higher quality.
 
Thanks for the reply! There's a pretty big difference between the WJ and TJ wheel frame you just posted. In the TJ frame, the green clock spring post with the airbag wire protruding sits under the metal frame of the TJ wheel frame and hugs it. The top of green plastic for the clock spring actually sits flush against th bottom of the metal of the wheel frame and the wires come straight out without being blocked in any way. So those two green protrusions from the clock spring actually hug the frame of the TJ wheel. But I can see in your pic of the WJ wheel, those two green protrusions are butting up against the back of the frame and the airbag wire is being smooshed instead of coming through the frame hole. Thats the issue I had. When you tighten down the wheel nut, it crunches the wires and the green protrusion. I did it too tight and when I turned the steering wheel it shredded the clock spring housing into prieces bc the metal frame was pushing on the green clock spring protrusions. I can see you would have the same issue but you must not have tightened the nut as much as I did and so the wires are not pushing too hard against the green protrusions. But for all intents, the WJ steering frame does not fit any of the TJ clock springs because those green protrusions are supposed to be unblocked by the frame, and should hug the frame not be smooshed behind the frame.

All that to say, I think it would still technically work for me I just have to make sure I don't overnighted that nut. But it might not be accurate to say it's a straight swap. It just happens to work even though it doesn't actually fit correctly. And I'd warn people that over tightening will break the clock spring. In the original set up, you can't really over tighten because the wires come through.

Green Protrusion on Clockspring.PNG
 
Thanks for the reply! There's a pretty big difference between the WJ and TJ wheel frame you just posted. In the TJ frame, the green clock spring post with the airbag wire protruding sits under the metal frame of the TJ wheel frame and hugs it. The top of green plastic for the clock spring actually sits flush against th bottom of the metal of the wheel frame and the wires come straight out without being blocked in any way. So those two green protrusions from the clock spring actually hug the frame of the TJ wheel. But I can see in your pic of the WJ wheel, those two green protrusions are butting up against the back of the frame and the airbag wire is being smooshed instead of coming through the frame hole. Thats the issue I had. When you tighten down the wheel nut, it crunches the wires and the green protrusion. I did it too tight and when I turned the steering wheel it shredded the clock spring housing into prieces bc the metal frame was pushing on the green clock spring protrusions. I can see you would have the same issue but you must not have tightened the nut as much as I did and so the wires are not pushing too hard against the green protrusions. But for all intents, the WJ steering frame does not fit any of the TJ clock springs because those green protrusions are supposed to be unblocked by the frame, and should hug the frame not be smooshed behind the frame.

All that to say, I think it would still technically work for me I just have to make sure I don't overnighted that nut. But it might not be accurate to say it's a straight swap. It just happens to work even though it doesn't actually fit correctly. And I'd warn people that over tightening will break the clock spring. In the original set up, you can't really over tighten because the wires come through.

View attachment 398092

Im also wondering, in your setup, what is making the steering wheel frame move along with the clock spring? If the wheel frame is sitting on top of your clock spring, then there is no fitment hugging the two items together to make them move in tandem unless its just the friction between the wires and plastic protrusion smooshing against the back of the frame. you may have just gotten lucky that your clock spring is moving in tandem with he wheel frame?