New Manifold Cost? SOLVED

I live in between my 9-5 and the mountain areas where I spend my weekends. During the weekdays / workdays, I drive 100 to 200 miles and usually 200-350 miles per weekend.

That said, I have put almost 12K miles on my Jeep since I bought it 5 months ago, and I have spent close to $1/mile on this Jeep so far and I still have to redo the entire cooling system, alternator (soon), and another pulley.

Sold my 4Runner that had 216K miles on it for this Jeep, because (1) I truly thought that it would buy me less maintenance time / money / effort and (2) I've surmised that 200K is the realistic lifespan on that motor and the entry point to big expensive repairs so it had to go. I thought that the Jeep having 90K+ miles would have been less risk, boy was I wrong there. I never bought American before and I'm starting to see that I was right to think that 100K USA made miles = 200K foreign. These things just seem to age worse than any foreign vehicle I have ever owned, probably by design.

Ranting aside, I have had to have my Jeep towed once already, which isn't cool in my book whatsoever. It's been a curse with little satisfaction, so I'll have to decide where to cut my losses.
you have spent $12,000 on repairs so far with the TJ?
 
We don't have typical junk yards in Seattle. Not that I'd have several hours during business hours anyhow to pull parts if we did.
Olympic 4X4 in Monroe has 4.0 Wranglers coming out the......I mean, they have a lot of Wranglers. Give 'em a call. May not be the cheapest, but it'll be an original manifold. *(They are a "wrecking yard", so parts are used...)
 
you have spent $12,000 on repairs so far with the TJ?

Factoring in the soon to be installed cooling system, rear axles, and this manifold replacement, I will have crossed that mark on repairs and upgrades.

It would have been more palatable to have been able to spread some of it out over a broader period of time, but unfortunately I have had shit break and other components show signs of wear that would potentially leave me and my family stranded, so I had to take care of business.

Olympic 4X4 in Monroe has 4.0 Wranglers coming out the......I mean, they have a lot of Wranglers. Give 'em a call. May not be the cheapest, but it'll be an original manifold. *(They are a "wrecking yard", so parts are used...)

Appreciate the tip. Decided to go with new aftermarket Dorman parts.

I drove down to Lakewood this evening to check out a couple of sets of used OEMs that looked ok in photos - but pretty awful in person. The 2.5hr round trip wasn't a total loss.. as a backup plan, I had Advanced Auto in Tacoma holding on to a new Dorman rear that I wound up buying (one of the two in retail stock in western Washington); the matching front manifold will be here Thursday via Amazon.

I have a shop down the road doing the install (my hands are banged up pretty bad, back needs a break, and I just don't have any free time to rip my Jeep apart in my driveway). Hate having a stranger touch my vehicle, but I need to get this done ASAP so I can get my M3's electrical issue sorted out (luckily i opted for a warranty).
 
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Factoring in the soon to be installed cooling system, rear axles, and this manifold replacement, I will have crossed that mark on repairs and upgrades.

It would have been more palatable to have been able to spread some of it out over a broader period of time, but unfortunately I have had shit break and other components show signs of wear that would potentially leave me and my family stranded, so I had to take care of business.



Appreciate the tip. Decided to go with new aftermarket Dorman parts.

I drove down to Lakewood this evening to check out a couple of sets of used OEMs that looked ok in photos - but pretty awful in person. The 2.5hr round trip wasn't a total loss.. as a backup plan, I had Advanced Auto in Tacoma holding on to a new Dorman rear that I wound up buying (one of the two in retail stock in western Washington); the matching front manifold will be here Thursday via Amazon.

I have a shop down the road doing the install (my hands are banged up pretty bad, back needs a break, and I just don't have any free time to rip my Jeep apart in my driveway). Hate having a stranger touch my vehicle, but I need to get this done ASAP so I can get my M3's electrical issue sorted out (luckily i opted for a warranty).
Good move on the M3 warranty, I never get extended warranties, but I will for my wife's 2016 C300 Benz, luckily I can get it in 2020 before the factory one runs out.
 
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Good move on the M3 warranty, I never get extended warranties, but I will for my wife's 2016 C300 Benz, luckily I can get it in 2020 before the factory one runs out.

My buddy at work bought a '16 C400 (non-CPO), it had ~26K on the odometer and he's already put another 15K miles in it. I helped him install a JB4 style pigtail for his turbos and got a good look under the hood. So far its been food to gim, but yes — the longer the warranty, the better - because you will not want to work on it yourself LOL!
 
Alright, so here's my status update - I have the rear manifold in hand and the front will be here tomorrow. For a brief moment, i thoufht this rear manifold was a full manifold for a Geo metro or something, but I also bought a new set of bolts and posts.

So far, I have spent $420 in parts dor the manifold and $120 or so on O2 sensors. There is a shop 4 miles down the road that will do the work for $470, and it'd be $88 for a tow. I still do not know if the new sensors are going to fix my short codes though (P0132 and P0152).

Debating on whether or not I should just do the replacement myself in my driveway. I just need a damn break though and its chilly. Planning to have them do it as of now :\
 
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Just a tip, next time when dealing with O2 sensors in cast material, you should try removing it when the manifold is warm. It'll come right out 99% of the time verses forcing it enough to rip the bung off.
 
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Oh, after looking at the pic again, it looks like it was busted and cracked before you tried taking it out. couldn't have been much holding it in by all the rust and dirt. LOL

Pretty much. I also suspected that there was a leak in that area too. The layers of dirt Nd rust probably ate it alive before I bought it 5 months ago.

The downstream sensors came out easy. I left the last one in there, no point in taking it out now.
 
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Replacing the manifold is not a bad job. A little advice though, you can really speed up the job by taking 30 minutes and removing the drivers side front fender. It makes accessing the bolts a snap.

IMG_20160905_175734830.jpg
 
Replacing the manifold is not a bad job. A little advice though, you can really speed up the job by taking 30 minutes and removing the drivers side front fender. It makes accessing the bolts a snap.

View attachment 32023

HMMM.... now THAT, would be a game changer!!! I can't wrap my head around taking the fender off though, so I will need to do some QUICK research and evaluate how tough and/or risky it would be to do.
 
Replacing the manifold is not a bad job. A little advice though, you can really speed up the job by taking 30 minutes and removing the drivers side front fender. It makes accessing the bolts a snap.

View attachment 32023
Thanks for this @CodaMan. This is in my future and I am not looking forward to it.
 
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HMMM.... now THAT, would be a game changer!!! I can't wrap my head around taking the fender off though, so I will need to do some QUICK research and evaluate how tough and/or risky it would be to do.

Taking the fender off is really simple. I've done it twice and it's a game changer when working down there. There are only a few bolts. I left the headlight wiring attached and just swung the fender out of the way (towards the front). It really only took a few minutes to get off and saved a couple of hours and tons of frustration. Those lower manifold bolts are really a PITA to get at. You can remove the front wheel as well and have enough space for two people down there :)
 
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I would say that the risk of damage is ZERO

In that case, I may go all in and do it myself. I can think of several ways to better spend the ~$600 in labor and towing to have it fixed.

Is there any glue applied to these fenders? (I can't remeber if I had read about these fenders or those from some other platform having some glue applied)
 
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...I can think of several ways to better spend the ~$600 in labor and towing to have it fixed.

You got that right

Is there any glue applied to these fenders? (I can't remeber if I had read about these fenders or those from some other platform having some glue applied)

Not that I know of or have ever seen when removing a fender.
 
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