New Member in New Mexico

TJRicochet

TJRicochet

Analytical. Literal. Up in my head.
Supporting Member
Joined
May 19, 2021
Messages
36
Location
Belen, New Mexico, USA
Hmmm... New Member in New Mexico — NM in NM... LOL!

Oh, sorry. Squirrel!

Just joined today from the Middle Rio Grande Valley of New Mexico. I bought my first Wrangler — a 2000 Sport, 4.0, 5-speed w/hard top and 184,000 miles — on Monday.

It's pretty stock right now.
  • The 4.0 is quiet and strong. The previous owner installed a K&N cold air intake.
  • If I am reading the Jeep Transmission Quick Reference Guide correctly, I believe that the 5-speed is the NV35505.
  • There is one broken stud on each of the rear wheels and the tires (Bridgestone T/As 30x9.50x15) are more than ten years old. They have tread, but the rubber is just shot. So, there is work to be done there.
  • The hard top is in pretty decent shape.
  • All the electronics, gadgets and doo-dads work.
  • A/C & heater both work very well.
  • Seat fabric is intact and appears to have been well-kept.
My intent is to use the TJ for limited around-town driving and some off-roading here in the New Mexico desert. I work from home and spend most of my non-working time taking care of our small farm. So, I don't put a lot of miles on a vehicle — typically less than 8,000/year.

I am open to suggestions for some mild mods, but I'm not sure where to start.

My first thought is tires (and wheels?) I'd like to go to a 33x12.50x15 or 35x12.50x15 M/T tire, but at a reasonable price. Also, I'd prefer to stay on the stock wheels if possible and I am concerned overloading the clutch and/or tranny if move too far up the scale.

I am also thinking about investing in a (good) lift kit, but nothing extreme — maybe 3" at most? However, I have no idea where to start here.

Finally, I have heard that drive-line modifications are sometimes necessary in conjunction with a lift kit. I understand the principals involved, but I don't know how far you can lift before the drive train becomes an issue.

Looking forward to sharing ideas, projects and results.
 
TJRicochet said:
Hmmm... New Member in New Mexico — NM in NM... LOL!

Oh, sorry. Squirrel!

Just joined today from the Middle Rio Grande Valley of New Mexico. I bought my first Wrangler — a 2000 Sport, 4.0, 5-speed w/hard top and 184,000 miles — on Monday.
Click to expand...
welcome and congrats on your TJ 🍻

TJRicochet said:
The previous owner installed a K&N cold air intake.
Click to expand...
Some here will advise removing the K&N system because the oiled cotton gauze filters are famous for letting dirt past the filter and into the engine. I'd recommend just getting a synthetic dry element filter to replace the oiled cotton gauze filter.

TJRicochet said:
I believe that the 5-speed is the NV35505.
Click to expand...
NV3550

TJRicochet said:
My first thought is tires (and wheels?) I'd like to go to a 33x12.50x15 or 35x12.50x15 M/T tire, but at a reasonable price. Also, I'd prefer to stay on the stock wheels if possible and I am concerned overloading the clutch and/or tranny if move too far up the scale.
Click to expand...
You won't overload the clutch but you may overload your back account. Those new to TJs are sometimes shocked when they read that you can spend near $10,000 to run 35" tires the right way.

TJRicochet said:
I am also thinking about investing in a (good) lift kit, but nothing extreme — maybe 3" at most? However, I have no idea where to start here.
Click to expand...
someone will be along with a good recommendation for a 2" suspension or 3" combo lift (2" suspension and 1.25" body lift) and 31" or 32" tires that would suit your needs.

TJRicochet said:
Finally, I have heard that drive-line modifications are sometimes necessary in conjunction with a lift kit. I understand the principals involved, but I don't know how far you can lift before the drive train becomes an issue.
Click to expand...
If you stay below 2" or 3" combo ( suspension and body lift) you shouldn't need driveline mods.
 
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^^^^x2
Good recommendations to get started with, along with servicing all your components, oil, transmission fluid, front and rear dif’s, brake fluid too.

Axle studs aren’t too hard to swap out, but ten year old tires could be very dangerous. No tire shop with do any repair work on tires that old for a reason, so good decision to get those replaced right away.

And welcome to the forum, and the happy and expensive world of Jeeps! 😸
 
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L J said:
welcome and congrats on your TJ 🍻
Click to expand...

Thanks! Glad to be here... I'm already learning a lot. I now know what a TJ Tummy Tuck is! Woo-hoo! 🍻 However, with my planned mix of on- and off-road, I'm hoping that I can avoid all of that with my TJ... 😉

L J said:
Some here will advise removing the K&N system because the oiled cotton gauze filters are famous for letting dirt past the filter and into the engine. I'd recommend just getting a synthetic dry element filter to replace the oiled cotton gauze filter.
Click to expand...

Problem is I don't have the original air intake system. So, I'll need something to replace the K&N. Suggestions?

L J said:
NV3550
Click to expand...

I stand 🧍‍♂️ (or sit 🧘‍♂️ ?) corrected. Thanks...

L J said:
You won't overload the clutch but you may overload your back account. Those new to TJs are sometimes shocked when they read that you can spend near $10,000 to run 35" tires the right way.
Click to expand...

Yikes! I don't want 35s badly enough to spend $10K right away — or ever, for that matter. Wowsers! 😰

L J said:
someone will be along with a good recommendation for a 2" suspension or 3" combo lift (2" suspension and 1.25" body lift) and 31" or 32" tires that would suit your needs.

If you stay below 2" or 3" combo ( suspension and body lift) you shouldn't need driveline mods.
Click to expand...

Bingo! That's the kind of direction I was looking for! That helps me narrow the search on suspension and body lift kits and tires while avoiding driveline mods. (y)
 
I'll double-down on what @L J said - it sounds like for your current intended use, some good maintenance and basic mods to support 31" tires would do you very well. Not sure what setups you're looking at now, but I have not heard a single bad word about OME (Old Man Emu) springs and shocks. Get the appropriate 2-2.5" kit and you should be just about golden to fit a set of 31" tires (with the * that some 31"s actually measure much closer to 30" even when new, and some are much closer to 31", so you may or may not need to run a body lift and/or adjust bump stops some).

Here's a very recent thread that you may also find helpful: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/lets-talk-optimal-build-for-31-tires.46071/
 
Last edited:
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pc1p said:
I'll double-down on what @L J said - it sounds like for your current intended use, some good maintenance and basic mods to support 31" tires would do you very well. Not sure what setups you're looking at now, but I have not heard a single bad word about OME (Old Man Emu) springs and shocks. Get the appropriate 2-2.5" kit and you should be just about golden to fit a set of 31" tires (with the * that some 31"s actually measure much closer to 30" even when new, and some are much closer to 31", so you may or may not need to run a body lift and/or adjust bump stops some).

Here's a very recent thread that you may also find helpful: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/lets-talk-optimal-build-for-31-tires.46071/
Click to expand...
Thanks, @pc1p
 
To echo what others have said, a 2-2.5" lift and 31s would be a great setup for your intended use. Our TJs are far more capable than most realize, even in stock form, so keeping it mild gives a little extra clearance for off-road and maintains a really nice ride both on and off-road if done right.

One nice thing about sticking with 31s vs 33s or 35s is not only the lower cost to get there, but the cost of tires jumps dramatically above 31, and it sounds like your tires will get old before you wear them out; it's no fun spending more on stuff you won't get the full use out of.

I run a 2.5" OME (Old Man Emu) lift that many others here do as well and can't say enough good things about it; seems to be pretty highly regarded, and my research here is what led me to that choice. Also, here's a write-up on piecing together a nice setup from various brands that are highly regarded.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-recipe-for-an-affordable-but-quality-2-5-lift.41687/unread
Last thing, sounds like you're looking at buying wheels. Not sure what you've got on there now, but if you're going aftermarket, wheels with 3.75 - 4" of backspacing will allow you to run a 31/32" tire without it rubbing on your suspension components.
 
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TJRicochet said:
Problem is I don't have the original air intake system. So, I'll need something to replace the K&N. Suggestions?
Click to expand...
Look around at local junk yards, That’s probably the cheapest option. There are some on EBay or places like Davys Jeep’s could send you one.

https://www.car-part.com/

You can use this website to help look for the air box at different junk yards
 
Last edited:
TJRicochet said:
Problem is I don't have the original air intake system. So, I'll need something to replace the K&N. Suggestions?
Click to expand...
The least expensive way would be to take the measurements of your current filter element (flange diameter, base diameter, height, etc) and search for a synthetic media "dry" filter element from AEM, AFE and the like. It would cost more to replace the entire OEM system unless you got lucky or found one in a junk yard.


TJRicochet said:
Yikes! I don't want 35s badly enough to spend $10K right away — or ever, for that matter. Wowsers! 😰
Click to expand...
I'm not saying you couldn't do it for less but replacing wheels and tires, regearing, upgraded steering, big brake kit, quality suspension, quality shocks, etc. adds up quickly.
 
L J said:
Some here will advise removing the K&N system because the oiled cotton gauze filters are famous for letting dirt past the filter and into the engine. I'd recommend just getting a synthetic dry element filter to replace the oiled cotton gauze filter.
Click to expand...
Is the Kyostar Universal Dry Air Filter the kind of filter you are talking about?
 
TJRicochet said:
Is the Kyostar Universal Dry Air Filter the kind of filter you are talking about?
Click to expand...
I would pass on that one. The product info is contradictory to the product name:
washable, oiled synthetic media
Click to expand...
Look for a filter like that specifically says oil-free. The one I'm using is an AFE dry filter product:
filter.jpg

You can use this filter finder to input your measurements and find an AFE product or maybe cross reference it to another brand: https://afepower.com/build-your-own-filter
 
L J said:
I would pass on that one. The product info is contradictory to the product name:

Look for a filter like that specifically says oil-free. The one I'm using is an AFE dry filter product:
View attachment 255998

You can use this filter finder to input your measurements and find an AFE product or maybe cross reference it to another brand: https://afepower.com/build-your-own-filter
Click to expand...
@L J : Thanks! That was the "boost" I needed. Ordered mine last night...
 
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TJRicochet said:
Hmmm... New Member in New Mexico — NM in NM... LOL!

Oh, sorry. Squirrel!

Just joined today from the Middle Rio Grande Valley of New Mexico. I bought my first Wrangler — a 2000 Sport, 4.0, 5-speed w/hard top and 184,000 miles — on Monday.

It's pretty stock right now.
  • The 4.0 is quiet and strong. The previous owner installed a K&N cold air intake.
  • If I am reading the Jeep Transmission Quick Reference Guide correctly, I believe that the 5-speed is the NV35505.
  • There is one broken stud on each of the rear wheels and the tires (Bridgestone T/As 30x9.50x15) are more than ten years old. They have tread, but the rubber is just shot. So, there is work to be done there.
  • The hard top is in pretty decent shape.
  • All the electronics, gadgets and doo-dads work.
  • A/C & heater both work very well.
  • Seat fabric is intact and appears to have been well-kept.
My intent is to use the TJ for limited around-town driving and some off-roading here in the New Mexico desert. I work from home and spend most of my non-working time taking care of our small farm. So, I don't put a lot of miles on a vehicle — typically less than 8,000/year.

I am open to suggestions for some mild mods, but I'm not sure where to start.

My first thought is tires (and wheels?) I'd like to go to a 33x12.50x15 or 35x12.50x15 M/T tire, but at a reasonable price. Also, I'd prefer to stay on the stock wheels if possible and I am concerned overloading the clutch and/or tranny if move too far up the scale.

I am also thinking about investing in a (good) lift kit, but nothing extreme — maybe 3" at most? However, I have no idea where to start here.

Finally, I have heard that drive-line modifications are sometimes necessary in conjunction with a lift kit. I understand the principals involved, but I don't know how far you can lift before the drive train becomes an issue.

Looking forward to sharing ideas, projects and results.
Click to expand...
You can level it out with a 2" spring spacer in the front. You can do that less than $50, if you do it yourself. With that, 33" tires will fit but that will bog you down on the highway so you would want to regear to 4:11 to make it drive like it does now. If you don't regear, I would keep the tires at 31".
 
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