Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

New TJ: Should I keep 35s and build up or drop down to 33s?

This is likely the unpopular opinion but it depends on what you want to do with it. Is it a daily driver, grocery getter, weekend cruiser, or are you going to MOAB? Different use cases warrant different components, unless you just want the look regardless.

I'll be honest I love the look of the 35s but I can see how much more money it could be to properly build it up or that compared to 33s. Chris mentioned the price different isn't much which I beleive is true but I think my best plan is to drop the tire size and over time switch out the different components to beef it up. Thanks everyone! Really appricate the input
 
To run 35's will be a lot more than the $1,300 for tires. Now a lot of us run 35's but most have moved up from running 33's and have found that we actually need the larger tires. You will need to consider building your diff's, brakes, steering, re-gearing and that's if your suspension is set up properly to run 35's. Now if you need 35's you may most likely need lockers it's a rabbit hole. Now if you don't need 35's your jeep can go a long way on tough trails on 33's with money on you pocket.

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Nailed it.

I have both 33’s and 35’s- I wheel the most on 33’s and have followed built JLs on 37’s and got the finger for making places they didn’t.

Truth is, The bigger the tire the easier the obstacle if things are done right….but you can do a lot on 33’s. You can go where the big boys go.




It hit me as I read this, you can also save enough money with 33’s to buy a lot of medication or alcohol, and that can be used to numb yourself to the shame of anything you can’t make it up or over….or at least forget the harassment you take.
 
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I run 33s on my LJ with a 4.5" lift and 4:10 gearing. I've been considering 4:88s with the 33s. I wouldn't go to 35s without a brake upgrade, body lift, and more $$ spent on the undercarriage. Depending on how serious you want to rock crawl, I would consider 33s unless you are opening up the wallet.
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He is telling you right- this is an LJR set up for 35’s- once you factor in the lift, wheels, tires, gears, brakes and steering - you start bumping 10,000.00 dollars.
 
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That doesn't apply to the 6 speed manual which both the OP and LJ owner have. 4.88s and 35s would be acceptable. 5.13s and 35s for the more off road focused. 5.38s and 35s only if they are ouoffroad only.

If I drop down to 33's, what ratio would be best with the 6 speed? I'm planning on doing the super35 hopefully within next 6 months or less and will do regear same time.
 
If I drop down to 33's, what ratio would be best with the 6 speed? I'm planning on doing the super35 hopefully within next 6 months or less and will do regear same time.

this is approximately what you'd be looking at for 4.56/33 and 4.88/33:
20240725_210220.jpg
 
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Thank you! Is that a website you have link to? Would be nice to play around with the speeds

https://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

A tip for getting the most accurate numbers: to input tire size measure your front axle from the ground to the center of the wheel/hub and double it. Don't input advertised tire sizes as they don't account for tire pressure and deformation.
 
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That doesn't apply to the 6 speed manual which both the OP and LJ owner have. 4.88s and 35s would be acceptable. 5.13s and 35s for the more off road focused (3000rpm at 70mph) . 5.38s and 35s only if they are offroad only.

YES. 4.88 are OK with a manual. MY LJ was dog shit with 4.88 and auto. Would never recommend with an auto.
 
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What this list doesn't tell you is where your rigs horse power and torque shit the bed.
Want to drive your 35" live axle and armored rectangle brick 75 mph on the highway at 3000? Better add boost.

Gearing is a heavily discussed topic around here. And many of us have been driving our live axled, armored bricks 75mph on the highway at 3000rpm without boost for a long long time.
 
Gearing is a heavily discussed topic around here. And many of us have been driving our live axled, armored bricks 75mph on the highway at 3000rpm without boost for a long long time.

I was always hunting gears, constantly down shifting on the highway. A down shift netting 4000+ rpm isn't worth a shit.
5.38 was the single best mod I've made.

Edit: I have never understood very similar Jeeps could be so wildly different in terms of performance. The"fuel mileage" threads are a good example. Some one says "My LJ gets 15mpg on 35's and 4.88". And I get 10.8 to 11.5 mpg.
 
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I was always hunting gears, constantly down shifting on the highway. A down shift netting 4000+ rpm isn't worth a shit.
5.38 was the single best mod I've made.

...

OP has a nsg370 compared to your and my 42rle. There is already enough transmission to gearing confusion happening in this thread.

None of which changes my assertion that we can drive these things comfortably on the highway without boost.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts