New to manual questions

[TheYonderGod]

I just bought a TJ! It's a 2000, 4.0, 5 speed.
My first Jeep, first 4x4, first manual transmission. I have a lot to learn

The person who "taught" me how to drive the stick doesn't really know what they're doing either, just enough to make it work. We were shifting at about 2k rpm. I did some reading and found it should be more like 3k+. I also understand now that I have the wrong gearing (3.73) for the 33" tires that the previous owner put on. I plan on upgrading the gears later, I'm assuming it makes more sense to save up until I can do lockers at the same time if that's my end goal. I just want to learn how to drive it the best I can for now.

So I went out and tried revving the engine out more and it does feel better for the most part, but first gear doesn't feel good to me at higher RPM. Is it all in my head, or is it because my gearing is wrong? Previous owner also mentioned that I "could" start in 2nd gear, but I don't understand if that's actually a good idea. It seems like that would add to the issue of my gears being too high, or do I have it backwards?
Also I'm confused about the shift up light, it comes on around 2k rpm. Is that because it's more fuel efficient to shift there? Is it ok to shift that low for idling around town?

I have a couple other random questions I tried to search but results were inconclusive

• For snow driving, do you use 4h or do you leave it in 2h until you're pretty much about to get stuck?
• I have a stock size spare. Is this OK to use that short term in an emergency? I assume I should at least put the spare on the front and use 2wd if possible? These tires are kind of old but still have a lot of tread left so I'm hoping I can just use them for a year or so while I learn and upgrade other things and then maybe get a set of 5 matching bead lock wheels and tires.
• What's the highest pressure you would run on these tires (BFG KO Baja Champion) for highway efficiency? I won't be doing that often, but I might take it on a road trip to explore some new trails.
• The shocks are "Rancho RS552349", which their website says to use with 2.5" "Rancho RS6503B" lift kit. The previous owner told me it had a small lift. However the control arms look like stock stamped steel style. It does seem lifted to easily fit the 33s. Ill double check the see if I can find any markings to identify the control arms, but if not should I assume I need to upgrade them?

 

[afusco1222]

A lot of unpack here but I'll do my best. I have a 2003 TJ with a 5 speed and I used to run 3.73 with 33 inch tires but have now switched to 4.88s and 34 inch tires. With my old gear and tire combination, I used to have to shift at a much higher RPM than I do now which was around 2500 RPMs. The problem with having a numerically low differential gear ratio is that your engine much work harder to turn the tire one revolution and is not able to do the same amount of work at the same RPM. If you shift too early, you will notice that it will feel like the engine is lugging, vibrating, rattling, and has no power. Shifting at 2k, in my opinion, is too low at that tire and gear combination. I would try shifting around 2500 instead of 3k+. 3k+ is better for cars that actually have more RPMs to work with. Our engines produce a lot of torque at a low RPM so 500 RPMs may not seem like a lot, but it will make a world of a difference.

With my later gear and tire combination, I can easily start in second gear and do so when I am on a downward hill as to build up speed more quickly. With 3.73 and 33s, I would not start out in second as much because it felt like I was riding the clutch too much which will cause it to wear out faster. As you drive around town, you will also figure out where and what gear to be in. All it takes is practice

Ignore the up shift light.

Use 4Hi if there is fresh snow or pack on the ground. It's better to be safe than sorry and the TJ loves to slide around on a snowy road due to its short wheel base.

Do not use the stock spare sized tire. Get a 33 inch tire installed on the stock wheel, and look up solutions on how to safely mount it to the tail gate. I have the old Or Fab tire carrier but I think Exogate makes a good option (or Bestop) but it's been a long time since I've looked into tire carrier options

Highest pressure would be about 27psi

33's need about 4" of lift. I think an easy add for you would be a body lift from Blackmagicbrakes.com, and it will net you almost 3.75" of total lift which will be fine with 33s. He also has great brake pad kits, and Big Brake Kits for our TJs if you need more stopping power. I linked his Body Lift below.
https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/pr...its-97-06-tj-and-tj-unlimited-all-trim-levels

Just remember that this is not an exact science, and the fact that you bought a manual transmission car and want to learn how to drive it is pretty awesome. I hope you can enjoy it as much as I have enjoyed mine.

 

[Tob]

I just bought a TJ! It's a 2000, 4.0, 5 speed.
My first Jeep, first 4x4, first manual transmission. I have a lot to learn View attachment 564486

The person who "taught" me how to drive the stick doesn't really know what they're doing either, just enough to make it work. We were shifting at about 2k rpm. I did some reading and found it should be more like 3k+.

When the engine is under high load with not enough leverage to drive the wheels, it will strain the engine and efficiency will suffer. This is called lugging. It varies based on speed, gearing (including transmission, differential, and tire size), and elevation slope, but to avoid lugging the engine, your shift points should likely be higher than 2k rpm. At least 2k rpm is a good cruising speed. If your engine speed drops below 2k rpm, you should downshift 1 gear. Generally, operate anywhere above lugging the engine and below the redline rpm.

I also understand now that I have the wrong gearing (3.73) for the 33" tires that the previous owner put on. I plan on upgrading the gears later, I'm assuming it makes more sense to save up until I can do lockers at the same time if that's my end goal. I just want to learn how to drive it the best I can for now.

Or, consider this - you have the wrong tires for the gearing. Swapping to 30” or 31” tires will make your TJ much more driveable and harder to stall, especially for someone new to manual transmissions. This is because smaller tires give your drivetrain a greater leverage on the road surface. Downsizing tires is much easier, quicker, cost-effective, and practical than regearing your axles. You can always upsize and regear later if you really want to.

So I went out and tried revving the engine out more and it does feel better for the most part, but first gear doesn't feel good to me at higher RPM. Is it all in my head, or is it because my gearing is wrong?

You’ll have to elaborate on “doesn’t feel good”. Is it that you feel you are revving the engine too high in first gear? If so, unlikely.

Previous owner also mentioned that I "could" start in 2nd gear, but I don't understand if that's actually a good idea. It seems like that would add to the issue of my gears being too high, or do I have it backwards?

This is likely previous owner’s bass- ackwards way of saying that the 4.0L engine produces a lot of low end torque, which indeed is true, but doesn’t make starting in 2nd gear a good idea. All you will accomplish is expedited wear on your clutch.

Also I'm confused about the shift up light, it comes on around 2k rpm. Is that because it's more fuel efficient to shift there? Is it ok to shift that low for idling around town?

That shift light has no one’s respect or attention. The intention behind it was likely for emissions and efficiency regulation or rating reasons, but it often gives nonsensical direction. I’m sure that changing the tire size makes it no more accurate, either. Ignore it - it will only cause you confusion.

I have a couple other random questions I tried to search but results were inconclusive

• For snow driving, do you use 4h or do you leave it in 2h until you're pretty much about to get stuck?

Gonna have to skip this one. Being from Louisiana, I’m clueless here.

• I have a stock size spare. Is this OK to use that short term in an emergency? I assume I should at least put the spare on the front and use 2wd if possible? These tires are kind of old but still have a lot of tread left so I'm hoping I can just use them for a year or so while I learn and upgrade other things and then maybe get a set of 5 matching bead lock wheels and tires.

A size difference up to a few inches is acceptable for short term emergency. The only downside there would be uneven tire wear due to an unlevel axle. I would put the spare on the rear, actually. Your rear differential accommodates for any speed difference between the two wheels, and the front axle has the critical duty of your steering and most of your braking. I would argue for even tire sizes on the front.

• What's the highest pressure you would run on these tires (BFG KO Baja Champion) for highway efficiency? I won't be doing that often, but I might take it on a road trip to explore some new trails.

Somewhere between about 26 psi and 30 psi would be appropriate for the tire size and vehicle weight, but you can nail down a more precise number by performing a “chalk test” to determine the pressure that gives you an appropriate contact patch between the tire and road.

• The shocks are "Rancho RS552349", which their website says to use with 2.5" "Rancho RS6503B" lift kit. The previous owner told me it had a small lift. However the control arms look like stock stamped steel style. It does seem lifted to easily fit the 33s. Ill double check the see if I can find any markings to identify the control arms, but if not should I assume I need to upgrade them?

Nothing requires you to replace the factory control arms unless the bushings are worn or you have driveline vibes and need adjustable control arms, a slip yoke eliminator, and a double cardan driveshaft to adjust the pinion angle. Otherwise they work just fine.

Lastly, but not least, welcome to the forum!

 

[OldBuzzard]

A size difference up to a few inches is acceptable for short term emergency. The only downside there would be uneven tire wear due to an unlevel axle. I would put the spare on the rear, actually. Your rear differential accommodates for any speed difference between the two wheels, and the front axle has the critical duty of your steering and most of your braking. I would argue for even tire sizes on the front.

If you have a limited slip rear end (Trac-Lok), do NOT put the smaller spare on the rear.

You can go here and put in your VIN to get a build sheet:
https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing
That will show you all kinds of interesting stuff, including which rear differential you have.

 

[MikekiM]

FIFY..

Disconnect Ignore the up shift light.

 

[Steel City 06]

A few random tips:

If you get stuck on a steep hill because you're not well practiced with the clutch, in an emergency you can cheat by shifting into 4Low and starting in 1st. Not recommended as a daily thing, but if you're stuck and blocking traffic, you can do it.

Manuals have no park function on the transmission. You only have 1st gear or reverse (either works just as well) plus the parking brake. On very steep hills, you can park it in 4Low to get 3x the engine holding power. Granted, your parking brake should be well enough adjusted to hold it, but if it isn't, this may help in a pinch.

RPMs: people will tell you all sorts of numbers on what to run. As you learn, you'll probably start using a few basic rules (when in doubt, 2,000), but as you progress, the answer simply becomes "all of them". A simplified rule is to use the highest gear that sustains your speed (or accelerates you at the rate you want) without lugging or keeping the pedal floored. Sometimes that's 1,200 while rolling slowly through a big parking lot, sometimes that means running it up to 5,200 to merge on the highway.

 

[Rubiconned]

Ignore the up shift light.

I don't even see it. I have my steering wheel tilted to block seeing it. I guess black tape would also work.

 

[Rickyd]

Have someone older that isn't a fool drive it and show you how and why. Same advise for offroading. Find someone older who isn't a fool that has experience offroad to show you what to do. And only go wheeling in a group!

If you don't then you will break shit,wreck your jeep,or possibly get someone killed.

 

[JKP]

I don't even see it. I have my steering wheel tilted to block seeing it. I guess black tape would also work.

My 06 doesn't have one, and I pulled the bulb on my YJ.

 

[TRevs]

A lot of good advice above; I’ll just add/emphasize a couple things:

As @Steel City 06 points out, your Jeep should always be parked in 1st or Reverse with the parking brake engaged, but of the two, being in gear is more important because old Jeeps parking brakes are often not adjusted properly. A manual transmission car can roll on a moderate/steep slope. As additional protection, turn the steering wheel into the curb, or into the hillside.

You should generally shift at the same points that an automatic shifts; when throttle demand is low, shift earlier, when more acceleration is needed, shift later. I have a LJ and a YJ, same engine basically but different transmissions (both manuals) and find that for typical driving I upshift around 2800 rpm.It’s ok to rev to 3500rpm +, but the power curve seems to fall off after that.

If you’re on patchy snow and feel you have good traction, 2wd is ok, but if it’s continuous snow with little to no pavement exposed, just go to 4H. You don’t have to stop to shift to 4H, just ease the throttle (or coast) and gently move the lever. When pavement reappears, shift back to 2wd.

 

[JohnF500]

Congratulations on your TJ- bought mine in June and can’t thank this group enough! I have learned so much and continue to every day. Great group and as long as you’re respectful there are no stupid questions! And if you’re disrespectful, well, then this goes from an educational and supportive forum to the best entertainment around!! You have found the best place for TJ info!!

 

[LONGJP2]

I just bought a TJ! It's a 2000, 4.0, 5 speed.
My first Jeep, first 4x4, first manual transmission. I have a lot to learn View attachment 564486

Welcome.

Adding to the advice above.
If you plan to wheel it, look into getting a hand-throttle.

 

[chili_pepper]

My 06 doesn't have one, and I pulled the bulb on my YJ.

I have to assume my '05 doesn't either, at least I've never seen it (not that I need to).

 

[Zorba]

RPMs: people will tell you all sorts of numbers on what to run. As you learn, you'll probably start using a few basic rules (when in doubt, 2,000), but as you progress, the answer simply becomes "all of them". A simplified rule is to use the highest gear that sustains your speed (or accelerates you at the rate you want) without lugging or keeping the pedal floored. Sometimes that's 1,200 while rolling slowly through a big parking lot, sometimes that means running it up to 5,200 to merge on the highway.

^^^THIS^^^
The RPMs one shifts at all depends on how much load the engine is seeing and how much throttle you're giving it. 1,200, 1,500 or so is perfectly doable on a flat residential street when you're not giving it much gas - tromp down on it and the engine will lug.

For normal driving, I upshift somewhere around 2,500 to 3K. Some will tell you that's too low - and it is for certain driving styles. Need to accelerate like getting on the freeway? You'll need higher RPMs, although I seldom go over 3,500 myself but it does happen on occasion. You'll get the feel for it with experience.

 

[bucky]

The first rule for newbies is don’t ride the clutch pedal. Shifts should be crisp, clean and without hesitation.
Once you develop the proper muscle memory you will never look at the RPM again. You will learn the sound that dictates the shift point. I can’t even tell you at what RPM that I shift at because after 60+ yrs of driving a manual I don’t even think about it. You need to learn how to down shift also because it is very useful and adds to the fun of a manual. A 6 banger Wrangler is the easiest vehicle to learn a manual because it’s hard to stall the motor. I’ve taught many children and adults how to operate a manual transmission with my YJ. NOBODY drives my 6spd TJ.

Welcome to the Wrangler Lifestyle. It has brought myself and my family enjoyment for over 30yrs.

 

[06TJ35's]

The first rule for newbies is don’t ride the clutch pedal. Shifts should be crisp, clean and without hesitation.
Once you develop the proper muscle memory you will never look at the RPM again. You will learn the sound that dictates the shift point. I can’t even tell you at what RPM that I shift at because after 60+ yrs of driving a manual I don’t even think about it. You need to learn how to down shift also because it is very useful and adds to the fun of a manual. A 6 banger Wrangler is the easiest vehicle to learn a manual because it’s hard to stall the motor. I’ve taught many children and adults how to operate a manual transmission with my YJ. NOBODY drives my 6spd TJ.

Welcome to the Wrangler Lifestyle. It has brought myself and my family enjoyment for over 30yrs.

I had a loud muffler then I switched to a very silent muffler when I made the switch I had to relearn the engine sound. I had to be like at 4,000 rpm then when up to 5000-5500 rpm and I said to my self ooo it feels torquey then I was like oh shit I’m at very high rpm’s I need to shift.

I have a 6 speed to it’s impossible to stall the motor. You don’t even need to hit the gas in 1st gear just let off the clutch.

 

[Zorba]

Once you develop the proper muscle memory you will never look at the RPM again. You will learn the sound that dictates the shift point.

Yep. When I learned to drive, nobody had a tach, we all learned to listen to the sound - it happened automatically (no pun). About the only time I ever REALLY used the tach was on a diesel F250 when I would downshift at 2K when going up a hill hauling a trailer - and I could have done without it even then, but it was nice to have.

 

[bucky]

I learned on farm trucks and equipment first. I bought a very rusted 1958 beetle 4 sp with a non synchromesh 1st gear in 7th grade for 50 hard earned dollars. I drove that on the street and through the fields until my sister’s BF decided to force a down shift into 1st. It’s amazing what you could get away with back in the day. When I started behind the wheel training at 16. My instructor commented that I must be practicing my driving. I said yes Sir for the past 10yrs.

 

[Rickyd]

I learned on farm trucks and equipment first. I bought a very rusted 1958 beetle 4 sp with a non synchromesh 1st gear in 7th grade for 50 hard earned dollars. I drove that on the street and through the fields until my sister’s BF decided to force a down shift into 1st. It’s amazing what you could get away with back in the day. When I started behind the wheel training at 16. My instructor commented that I must be practicing my driving. I said yes Sir for the past 10yrs.

My great grandmother took my grandpa to dmv when he was 13 and said his license got lost. He got a new one and was driving to the feed store for the farm that day.

 

[chili_pepper]

To offer a different perspective...

Based on the gear selected and engine RPM, you'll be able to tell what your speed is within a MPH or two.

Potentially fun/interesting fact. This technique was quite common in the yester-years of racing...

Repco-Brabham BT24


Lotus 49 Ford


Ferrari 312t


Lotus 79


...note the lack of speedometer (and other gauges). You might notice in some of those photos that the tach seems to be misaligned, this is intentional; the gauge is rotated to set the engine redline at 12 o'clock for easier reference by the driver. Probably not as big of a concern in your TJ.