New to me TJ with issues

SClemons

New Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2022
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21
Location
Kentucky
I just got this TJ. It had lots of bent, worn out and leaking parts. So I figured I would start there. I have replaced the ball joints, power steering gearbox, power steering pump, tire rod ends, drag link, pinion seal, rear U joints and steering stabilizer shock. I have ordered a stock pitman arm and plan to change it asap. I also will be taking it next week to have a friend try and straighten the lower control arm brackets.
I am not sure about the sway bar links. I honestly don’t know how to check them or what to look for. I do know that this jeep has a 4 inch skyjacker lift part number TJ 401BPHLT, sitting on 35’s.
My main concern right now is the steering darting all over the place and bump steer. It will kill you over 25 mile an hour. It’s the worst I’ve ever experienced. I have not taken it to the alignment shop yet because I wanted to make sure I didn’t need to change out or fix anything else first. Any insight on other things to fix or check will be greatly appreciated. I’m stumped as to what to do next with this thing.
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once you get the front end sorted out there’s a diy alignment on here somewhere. very easy to do. my jeep wandered all over the road after having the lift installed. shop either did a bad alignment or didn’t do one at all. did diy alignment and it’s a night and day difference in driving it. look for diy alignment in the resources section.
 
Agree drop pitman arm sucks, you’re fixing that.

Strange you have a adjustable Rubicon Express Track Bar but it looks like they’ve moved the axle side to not be in the stick mounting hole? Maybe I’m missing something.

You also have a stock Tie Rod with 35’s, I’d change that to a ZJ or Currectlync.

Are your Control Arms adjustable? If not, then your Caster has to be off with that lift. I’d geg that mount fixed and adjustable CAs to fix Caster.

1. Stock Pitman
3. Adjustable CA’s
3. Adjust Caster

Looks pretty awesome though.
 
Agree drop pitman arm sucks, you’re fixing that.

Strange you have a adjustable Rubicon Express Track Bar but it looks like they’ve moved the axle side to not be in the stick mounting hole? Maybe I’m missing something.

You also have a stock Tie Rod with 35’s, I’d change that to a ZJ or Currectlync.

Are your Control Arms adjustable? If not, then your Caster has to be off with that lift. I’d geg that mount fixed and adjustable CAs to fix Caster.

1. Stock Pitman
3. Adjustable CA’s
3. Adjust Caster

Looks pretty awesome though.

Thank you, I’ll get those things took care of and update ASAP.
 
The drop pitman arm isn't doing you any favors but that lower control arm mount on the driver's side is scary.

It has an appointment for Monday to try and straighten the CA bracket. Someone hit something hard on the front drivers side with this jeep. After the CA bracket is addressed, I will remove the track bar and try to get it all back to center.
 
once you get the front end sorted out there’s a diy alignment on here somewhere. very easy to do. my jeep wandered all over the road after having the lift installed. shop either did a bad alignment or didn’t do one at all. did diy alignment and it’s a night and day difference in driving it. look for diy alignment in the resources section.
Thank you, I’ll get those things took care of and update ASAP.
Agree drop pitman arm sucks, you’re fixing that.

Strange you have a adjustable Rubicon Express Track Bar but it looks like they’ve moved the axle side to not be in the stick mounting hole? Maybe I’m missing something.

You also have a stock Tie Rod with 35’s, I’d change that to a ZJ or Currectlync.

Are your Control Arms adjustable? If not, then your Caster has to be off with that lift. I’d geg that mount fixed and adjustable CAs to fix Caster.

1. Stock Pitman
3. Adjustable CA’s
3. Adjust Caster

Looks pretty awesome though.

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Would the bolt placement add to the shift toward the drivers side??
 
Is this a drop bracket or stock?

View attachment 364315

That is a Heim joint track bar on a stock mount and the axle end is 2 piece urethane.

I bought a TJ about like it once and barely could drive it home- and I know this is costing you money-

Get a good track bar, a stock pitman, fix the control arm mounts, fix every bad control arm bushing and if possible get any skyjacker urethane control arm bushings gone some way, make sure you have caster, check the ball joints and front unit bearings and check every front end part, be sure the rear is rock solid including the track bar and there is no slop in any sway bar ends or at the axle where they mount-then set the toe -


That jeep is not set up well for ‘35’s and has been beat on.

A lifted TJ can run 75-80 plus mph safely.

I doubt it is geared right too.

Use this forum, we know how to deal with these.
 
Thank you, I will get the track bar and pitman arm swapped. It’s currently at a shop getting the control arm brackets dealt with.
 
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I'm looking at this and asking myself why in the world did they drill a new hole close to the outside of the axle side mount when the track bar is adjustable? Beyond the fact that the track bar has a frame side heim joint, this is pure silliness! :(
 
I'm looking at this and asking myself why in the world did they drill a new hole close to the outside of the axle side mount when the track bar is adjustable? Beyond the fact that the track bar has a frame side heim joint, this is pure silliness! :(

Like all of us at one time, we started adding parts slowly before we realized what our end goal should be. I bet the PO started with a small lift that required a relocation of the hole for the stock track bar and then after time, decided to go to a bigger lift that came with an adjustable track bar and had a brain fart on which hole the new adjustable track bar should go.
 
Like all of us at one time, we started adding parts slowly before we realized what our end goal should be.

That is exactly how I started- like her, my short term goal was wanting it drivable. Now, on my 5th TJR, I can stand back and see things better- and think lift, consequences, and short term and long term choices.

I hate she is in that position, but she is at least going after it-

With a TJ you have around 44 movement control connections that matter underneath. She will have to be persistent.


You can get there a lot of ways OP, just ask questions here before you take random advice from shops that tend to be generalists.
 
I will definitely ask here first. As in my original comment. I knew it was bad. However it has no rust and only 111,000 on the motor and it runs great. I didn’t know where else to begin but with the parts that were obviously worn out, leaking or bent. Now it’s the more tedious crap and I am thankful that y’all are here! It’s like trying to put a puzzle together without knowing what it supposed to look like 😂😂😂
 
I will definitely ask here first. As in my original comment. I knew it was bad. However it has no rust and only 111,000 on the motor and it runs great. I didn’t know where else to begin but with the parts that were obviously worn out, leaking or bent. Now it’s the more tedious crap and I am thankful that y’all are here! It’s like trying to put a puzzle together without knowing what it supposed to look like 😂😂😂

That’s a good description and you’re not gonna do just one thing and get fantastic results most likely- It’s gonna be a process of getting all the connections good underneath and getting all the geometry correct-

Yours is typical of a lot of them that are out there on the market

It kind of bothers me because people put down how they drive having no idea all of the design that went into making them drives great has been basically defeated.

You don’t need a long arm kit.

You don’t need to do anything crazy underneath it and start letting someone design some kind of new suspension system.

you need it to start going back in the direction of the stock design with good connections and the proper adjustments made for the lift height you’re going to be running

You may also want to consider smaller tires than 35 inches because they are the beginning of the highest level of technical difficulty to make a TJ work right. If you can get back to 33 inches or less life can get a lot simpler.

You can drive down the road 70 miles an hour with one finger in any TJ that is properly lifted.

The load range air pressure and type of tire on the vehicle also has a lot of influence on how it rides and handles
 
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That’s a good description and you’re not gonna do just one thing and get fantastic results most likely- It’s gonna be a process of getting all the connections good underneath and getting all the geometry correct-

Yours is typical of a lot of them that are out there on the market

It kind of bothers me because people put down how they drive having no idea all of the design that went into making them drives great has been basically defeated.

You don’t need a long arm kit.

You don’t need to do anything crazy underneath it and start letting someone design some kind of new suspension system.

you need it to start going back in the direction of the stock design with good connections and the proper adjustments made for the lift height you’re going to be running

You may also want to consider smaller tires than 35 inches because they are the beginning of the highest level of technical difficulty to make a TJ work right. If you can get back to 33 inches or less life can get a lot simpler.

You can drive down the road 70 miles an hour with one finger in any TJ that is properly lifted.

The load range air pressure and type of tire on the vehicle also has a lot of influence on how it rides and handles

Trust me, this guy's knows what he is talking about!! The Rubicon I got from @AndyG does exactly what he describes, it is smooth as silk driving!!!
 
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