The challenge is the 05-06 will start and run without the OPDA signal or a crankshaft position signal. When it arrived here, we tried to start it and after a second key cycle and a long crank, it fired up, poorly but enough to drive it in. First thing check and set the OPDA, this one was one with the drive gear 180 out so we unpinned it and re-pinned it correctly on the shaft after we didn't like the way it lined up relative to the block.
Also a lesson for those that just use position to set one. The first thing you should do is lay the old and new side by side and make sure the drive gear is the same orientation on the shaft.
After we got the OPDA correct it was still a long two cycle crank to get it to run. The DRB showed that it was not getting a signal from the cam sensor indirectly since there was no angle difference between cam and crank with it showing as 0.00.
We stopped there to see if the signal loss was due to something in the harness or connector after we swapped in a known good cam sensor. We spent time checking the harness, pulling apart the PCM connector, running a continuity test on the wires and carefully looking for a broken or bad wire.
Each of the times we got it to start, we knew it wasn't right and you can hear the odd misfire when it is trying to start without the OPDA or crank signal. It sounds like a motor does when a distributor is way out.
We were stumped so we dug into a diagnostic tree that we have access to in some dealer stuff and it showed that a loss of crank signal would show up as a cam sensor bad or cam synch issue.
Grabbed a known good crank position sensor and it fired right up with no issues, no codes, nothing. After a 45 minute test drive at surface street and highway speeds it still had no codes. Good as we can get it for now. The timing on OPDA is .2 which is well within the range of 10 degrees of either side of 0.
The main clue was the crank and cam angle difference showing as 0.00 on the factory DRB scanner. Not sure how many parts you can swap out without that kernel of knowledge.
Also a lesson for those that just use position to set one. The first thing you should do is lay the old and new side by side and make sure the drive gear is the same orientation on the shaft.
After we got the OPDA correct it was still a long two cycle crank to get it to run. The DRB showed that it was not getting a signal from the cam sensor indirectly since there was no angle difference between cam and crank with it showing as 0.00.
We stopped there to see if the signal loss was due to something in the harness or connector after we swapped in a known good cam sensor. We spent time checking the harness, pulling apart the PCM connector, running a continuity test on the wires and carefully looking for a broken or bad wire.
Each of the times we got it to start, we knew it wasn't right and you can hear the odd misfire when it is trying to start without the OPDA or crank signal. It sounds like a motor does when a distributor is way out.
We were stumped so we dug into a diagnostic tree that we have access to in some dealer stuff and it showed that a loss of crank signal would show up as a cam sensor bad or cam synch issue.
Grabbed a known good crank position sensor and it fired right up with no issues, no codes, nothing. After a 45 minute test drive at surface street and highway speeds it still had no codes. Good as we can get it for now. The timing on OPDA is .2 which is well within the range of 10 degrees of either side of 0.
The main clue was the crank and cam angle difference showing as 0.00 on the factory DRB scanner. Not sure how many parts you can swap out without that kernel of knowledge.
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