Nothing I need, everything I want (2005 TJR, impact orange)

@MikeE024 because you asked for more :) With respect to the specific choices in the front "control center" (a mockup was posted earlier), I will write a bit about the choice for the audio controller.

I will preface this by saying I have never been a car audio person. Occasional NPR news and perhaps classical station if I am stuck in traffic. Prefer to listen to music on my modest listening setup at home. I know some people love it and it perhaps elevates the driving experience for them, but simply doesn't do anything for me. So when Blaine and I were discussing the best spots for mounting the SwitchPros and he pointed out that the center OEM radio space is primo real estate, I simply told him we can delete the factory radio.

After Blaine asked if I was sure, I realized that I do have one need for car audio - that would be for GPS navigation directions. Often times the audio is simply all you need. A second use, if I had a system, would be for people in the passenger seat; sometimes when I take trips with buddies it's nice to have the option for them to listen to an audiobook or whatever interests them. For either of these, I certainly do not need a typical OEM radio or an aftermarket Android radio.

So I start digging into what options are out there that -

(1) Provide just the audio function without all the typical bells and whistles
(2) Is not distracting in terms of looks
(3) Is highly very space efficient, no screen or a very very tiny one
(4) Has physical controls - push button on/off and preferably a volume knob.

It took a decent bit of searching, but I eventually found what I wanted in the strange world of side-by-sides. Dash space is highly premium there and people cared for other things like being waterproof. Enter the SSV MRB2R.
https://ssvworks.com/products/universal-bluetooth-rocker-switch-audio-system-with-200-watt-amplifier

This is essentially a simple bluetooth interface connected to a small amp that still puts out more than enough power to drive the factory Rubicon speaker setup. The beauty of this setup is the size and the usability of it. Think of the size that a Carling switch - like the one ARB uses for their lockers - would take on the dash. In that space, they have somehow managed to integrate 6 controls (volume knob that also push on/off, a mode switch for AUX vs Bluetooth choice, play/pause button and fwd/reverse controls). That is STUPID good use of space.

This is how it looks.

1732083534889.png


The amp it is connected to is small, has a metal case, seems adequately finned and can be fit in the space of the OEM radio. This thing is advertised to put out RMS 25Wx4 (4 ohms) or 50Wx4 (2 ohms). Has 1 low level ore-out (4 V). More than plenty to drive a factory style speaker setup, I think.

Size reference inside a TJ dash -

1732083963987.png


The BT interface is housed behind the front controls.

1732084041858.png


Once I saw this thing I realized it would suit my needs perfectly. Hop into the jeep, set it up to connect via BT, mount the phone for maps (or whatever audio one desires, Youtube/Spotify/Audiobooks/whatever) and off you go. The front controls are backlit white . The volume knob is pushed to turn the thing on and off. The volume adjustment has detents and all the buttons have a good feel. The ring glows solid blue when connected to Bluetooth and green for Aux in and the ONLY thing I wish were reversed were these two colors. But can't fault them for using blue for Bluetooth. I can live with that!

This idea isn't new; in the Marine and SxS world, there are many companies that make just the front wireless interface that connects with any amp of your choice. Few examples below but you will notice most don't fit the design language of the TJ.

1732085471857.png


Companies like JL Audio that have good reputation make some stuff for the Marine world, along with amp and whatever. But also simply does not belong inside a TJ.

1732085831751.png


There was only one other interface that looked good OEM-like looks (made by Hertz) but it was too large for this Jeep build.
https://hertz-audio.com/product/hmr-bt/

1732085984636.png


It should be obvious now why I chose the SSV works item. It was very important for both Blaine and me to NOT have something that looks like a misfit in the interior. And not only that, it solved two problems at once - small sized controller + also came with the amp which meant we can just focus energy and time on the other things that needed to be done.

There’s a lot going on and your anticipation of how current and past choices will affect future constraints and the overall build is one of the most interesting parts to me. Looking forward to seeing more. :)

And I will write about this aspect further as I explain in the next post or two about how we arrived at our choices for the USB ports, seat heater switches and Blaine's panel for the Rubicrawler. Everything set in motion from the choice for the audio interface. And all this also influenced how Blaine designed and executed the camera mirror + 5" backup setup. The driving philosophy is the same as what Blaine has talked about before for suspension - you have to constantly keep looking and thinking about the total sum working together nicely while figuring out the individual components.

It has been highly satisfying being involved in this stuff and seeing Blaine's highly thoughtful, fully logical design process and his attention to detail even for the smallest of things, which helps you understand how that refinement comes in everything he touches.
 
Last edited:
@MikeE024 because you asked for more :) With respect to the specific choices in the front "control center" (a mockup was posted earlier), I will write a bit about the choice for the audio controller.

I will preface this by saying I have never been a car audio person. Occasional NPR news and perhaps classical station if I am stuck in traffic. Prefer to listen to music on my modest listening setup at home. I know some people love it and it perhaps elevates the driving experience for them, but simply doesn't do anything for me. So when Blaine and I were discussing the best spots for mounting the SwitchPros and he pointed out that the center OEM radio space is primo real estate, I simply told him we can delete the factory radio.

After Blaine asked if I was sure, I realized that I do have one need for car audio - that would be for GPS navigation directions. Often times the audio is simply all you need. A second use, if I had a system, would be for people in the passenger seat; sometimes when I take trips with buddies it's nice to have the option for them to listen to an audiobook or whatever interests them. For either of these, I certainly do not need a typical OEM radio or an aftermarket Android radio.

So I start digging into what options are out there that -

(1) Provide just the audio function without all the typical bells and whistles
(2) Is not distracting in terms of looks
(3) Is highly very space efficient, no screen or a very very tiny one
(4) Has physical controls - push button on/off and preferably a volume knob.

It took a decent bit of searching, but I eventually found what I wanted in the strange world of side-by-sides. Dash space is highly premium there and people cared for other things like being waterproof. Enter the SSV MRB2R.
https://ssvworks.com/products/universal-bluetooth-rocker-switch-audio-system-with-200-watt-amplifier

This is essentially a simple bluetooth interface connected to a small amp that still puts out more than enough power to drive the factory Rubicon speaker setup. The beauty of this setup is the size and the usability of it. Think of the size that a Carling switch - like the one ARB uses for their lockers - would take on the dash. In that space, they have somehow managed to integrate 6 controls (volume knob that also push on/off, a mode switch for AUX vs Bluetooth choice, play/pause button and fwd/reverse controls). That is STUPID good use of space.

This is how it looks.

View attachment 573834

The amp it is connected to is small, has a metal case, seems adequately finned and can be fit in the space of the OEM radio. This thing is advertised to put out RMS 25Wx2 (4 ohms) or 50Wx2 (2 ohms). Has 1 low level ore-out (4 V). More than plenty to drive a factory style speaker setup, I think.

Size reference inside a TJ dash -

View attachment 573835

The BT interface is housed behind the front controls.

View attachment 573836

Once I saw this thing I realized it would suit my needs perfectly. Hop into the jeep, set it up to connect via BT, mount the phone for maps (or whatever audio one desires, Youtube/Spotify/Audiobooks/whatever) and off you go. The front controls are backlit white . The volume knob is pushed to turn the thing on and off. The volume adjustment has detents and all the buttons have a good feel. The ring glows solid blue when connected to Bluetooth and green for Aux in and the ONLY thing I wish were reversed were these two colors. But can't fault them for using blue for Bluetooth. I can live with that!

This idea isn't new; in the Marine and SxS world, there are many companies that make just the front wireless interface that connects with any amp of your choice. Few examples below but you will notice most don't fit the design language of the TJ.

View attachment 573838

Companies like JL Audio that have good reputation make some stuff for the Marine world, along with amp and whatever. But also simply does not belong inside a TJ.

View attachment 573842

There was only one other interface that looked good OEM-like looks (made by Hertz) but it was too large for this Jeep build.
https://hertz-audio.com/product/hmr-bt/

View attachment 573843

It should be obvious now why I chose the SSV works item. It was very important for both Blaine and me to NOT have something that looks like a misfit in the interior. And not only that, it solved two problems at once - small sized controller + also came with the amp which meant we can just focus energy and time on the other things that needed to be done.



And I will write about this aspect further as I explain in the next post or two about how we arrived at our choices for the USB ports, seat heater switches and Blaine's panel for the Rubicrawler. Everything set in motion from the choice for the audio interface. And all this also influenced how Blaine designed and executed the camera mirror + 5" backup setup. The driving philosophy is the same as what Blaine has talked about before for suspension - you have to constantly keep looking and thinking about the total sum working together nicely while figuring out the individual components.

It has been highly satisfying being involved in this stuff and seeing Blaine's highly thoughtful, fully logical design process and his attention to detail even for the smallest of things, which helps you understand how that refinement comes in everything he touches.

Thanks for the reply man. Knowing your requirements, constraints, and preferences helps someone like me better appreciate the mindset and considerations that have gone into your build. I don't mind saying that I felt like I was on the journey with you guys as I read through your post.

Looking forward to learning more. :)
 
@MikeE024 because you asked for more :) With respect to the specific choices in the front "control center" (a mockup was posted earlier), I will write a bit about the choice for the audio controller.

I will preface this by saying I have never been a car audio person. Occasional NPR news and perhaps classical station if I am stuck in traffic. Prefer to listen to music on my modest listening setup at home. I know some people love it and it perhaps elevates the driving experience for them, but simply doesn't do anything for me. So when Blaine and I were discussing the best spots for mounting the SwitchPros and he pointed out that the center OEM radio space is primo real estate, I simply told him we can delete the factory radio.

After Blaine asked if I was sure, I realized that I do have one need for car audio - that would be for GPS navigation directions. Often times the audio is simply all you need. A second use, if I had a system, would be for people in the passenger seat; sometimes when I take trips with buddies it's nice to have the option for them to listen to an audiobook or whatever interests them. For either of these, I certainly do not need a typical OEM radio or an aftermarket Android radio.

So I start digging into what options are out there that -

(1) Provide just the audio function without all the typical bells and whistles
(2) Is not distracting in terms of looks
(3) Is highly very space efficient, no screen or a very very tiny one
(4) Has physical controls - push button on/off and preferably a volume knob.

It took a decent bit of searching, but I eventually found what I wanted in the strange world of side-by-sides. Dash space is highly premium there and people cared for other things like being waterproof. Enter the SSV MRB2R.
https://ssvworks.com/products/universal-bluetooth-rocker-switch-audio-system-with-200-watt-amplifier

This is essentially a simple bluetooth interface connected to a small amp that still puts out more than enough power to drive the factory Rubicon speaker setup. The beauty of this setup is the size and the usability of it. Think of the size that a Carling switch - like the one ARB uses for their lockers - would take on the dash. In that space, they have somehow managed to integrate 6 controls (volume knob that also push on/off, a mode switch for AUX vs Bluetooth choice, play/pause button and fwd/reverse controls). That is STUPID good use of space.

This is how it looks.

View attachment 573834

The amp it is connected to is small, has a metal case, seems adequately finned and can be fit in the space of the OEM radio. This thing is advertised to put out RMS 25Wx2 (4 ohms) or 50Wx2 (2 ohms). Has 1 low level ore-out (4 V). More than plenty to drive a factory style speaker setup, I think.

Size reference inside a TJ dash -

View attachment 573835

The BT interface is housed behind the front controls.

View attachment 573836

Once I saw this thing I realized it would suit my needs perfectly. Hop into the jeep, set it up to connect via BT, mount the phone for maps (or whatever audio one desires, Youtube/Spotify/Audiobooks/whatever) and off you go. The front controls are backlit white . The volume knob is pushed to turn the thing on and off. The volume adjustment has detents and all the buttons have a good feel. The ring glows solid blue when connected to Bluetooth and green for Aux in and the ONLY thing I wish were reversed were these two colors. But can't fault them for using blue for Bluetooth. I can live with that!

This idea isn't new; in the Marine and SxS world, there are many companies that make just the front wireless interface that connects with any amp of your choice. Few examples below but you will notice most don't fit the design language of the TJ.

View attachment 573838

Companies like JL Audio that have good reputation make some stuff for the Marine world, along with amp and whatever. But also simply does not belong inside a TJ.

View attachment 573842

There was only one other interface that looked good OEM-like looks (made by Hertz) but it was too large for this Jeep build.
https://hertz-audio.com/product/hmr-bt/

View attachment 573843

It should be obvious now why I chose the SSV works item. It was very important for both Blaine and me to NOT have something that looks like a misfit in the interior. And not only that, it solved two problems at once - small sized controller + also came with the amp which meant we can just focus energy and time on the other things that needed to be done.



And I will write about this aspect further as I explain in the next post or two about how we arrived at our choices for the USB ports, seat heater switches and Blaine's panel for the Rubicrawler. Everything set in motion from the choice for the audio interface. And all this also influenced how Blaine designed and executed the camera mirror + 5" backup setup. The driving philosophy is the same as what Blaine has talked about before for suspension - you have to constantly keep looking and thinking about the total sum working together nicely while figuring out the individual components.

It has been highly satisfying being involved in this stuff and seeing Blaine's highly thoughtful, fully logical design process and his attention to detail even for the smallest of things, which helps you understand how that refinement comes in everything he touches.

I did something similar, though not with Blaine's level of execution:
1732116319972.png

Besides the bluetooth amp controller, there's a bass level knob, phone mount and inductive charger with its USB connection and a system power switch as its not hooked up to an ignition hot. The Kenwood bluetooth amp I used has the same power as yours but isn't as compact so I put it under the driver seat with a 10" sub woofer. After a year, I don't miss AM/FM at all. Both music and news are easily streamed via my phone.

One question for you: This set up abandons the factory radio antenna. What do you plan to do with yours? I was thinking of a GMRS antenna in that location. Currently, I have just been using hand held radios on the trail.
 
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I did something similar, though not with Blaine's level of execution:

Besides the bluetooth amp controller, there's a bass level knob, phone mount and inductive charger with its USB connection and a system power switch as its not hooked up to an ignition hot. The Kenwood bluetooth amp I used has the same power as yours but isn't as compact so I put it under the driver seat with a 10" sub woofer. After a year, I don't miss AM/FM at all. Both music and news are easily streamed via my phone.

One question for you: This set up abandons the factory radio antenna. What do you plan to do with yours? I was thinking of a GMRS antenna in that location. Currently, I have just been using hand held radios on the trail.

Neither the idea of a radio delete, not the idea of a Bluetooth audio controller are new. But the choice of the specific components and Blaine's refined execution of the ideas are definitely worth sharing and discussing.

Blaine did ask me if I had considered putting a full sized GMRS radio setup in the vehicle. I am still not sure I need that level of a setup for what I do with the Jeep. I had already requested him to help put an electrical panel in the back to be able to charge a 12V fridge (will write on that later), along with a couple USB ports. He recommended I think about atleast a pair of handhelds .. and that he can put a dedicated cigarette lighter port in the rear panel for charging the handhelds and have a nice consolidated solution that way. That was pretty solid suggestion so I ordered a pair of Wouxun KG-935G Plus.

1732163719264.png



You are right, that factory antenna is not useful now. GMRS antenna in that location is not a bad idea.
 
Neither the idea of a radio delete, not the idea of a Bluetooth audio controller are new. But the choice of the specific components and Blaine's refined execution of the ideas are definitely worth sharing and discussing.

Blaine did ask me if I had considered putting a full sized GMRS radio setup in the vehicle. I am still not sure I need that level of a setup for what I do with the Jeep. I had already requested him to help put an electrical panel in the back to be able to charge a 12V fridge (will write on that later), along with a couple USB ports. He recommended I think about atleast a pair of handhelds .. and that he can put a dedicated cigarette lighter port in the rear panel for charging the handhelds and have a nice consolidated solution that way. That was pretty solid suggestion so I ordered a pair of Wouxun KG-935G Plus.

View attachment 574015


You are right, that factory antenna is not useful now. GMRS antenna in that location is not a bad idea.

Actually USB-C ports, Blaine is always forward thinking.
 
GMRS antenna in that location is not a bad idea.
Maybe, we do have the consideration of retaining a semblance of a stock appearing vehicle and the antenna is part of that. If they make a GMRS antenna that looks like the stock antenna, then sure. Or if the stock antenna can be converted to GMRS, then sure.
 
Actually USB-C ports, Blaine is always forward thinking.
No credit to me. I wouldn't know the diffence in any of the USB stuff. I know folks use it, I use it to charge a phone and upload pics out of a card reader. I have a box full of cables and I just keep trying to plug something in until I find one that fits. If it doesn't, I take the whole mess, drop it on Kat's desk and have her do it.

Sri patiently explains the difference, what all the little letters mean, the history of them from the time they were invented to where we are now in excruciating detail and it is about the same as a beer snob explaining which corner of the hops field they used to craft a particular brew and how that affects the taste when compared to a brew using hops from the other corner of the field. Since I care as much about beer as I do electronics, I retain exactly zero of the info. But bless his heart, he still tries.

I just explain the parameters and turn him loose. Hey Sri, you see that little space right there? I need a snap in panel mount port for whatever you need to charge that piece of shit smart phone you carry around. Fetch one up please and give me something to stick one end into that will give your phone what it needs. Then it shows up and I make a hole for it. Done.
 
Good choice of radio Sri. I have the 1st gen of the 935G. I got one of those cup holder mounts for it. Probably overkill for your use case, but a solid radio. If you are just looking to talk to your buddies on a jeep run, those radios will do just fine without an external antenna.
20220824_143531.jpg
 
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I just explain the parameters and turn him loose. Hey Sri, you see that little space right there? I need a snap in panel mount port for whatever you need to charge that piece of shit smart phone you carry around. Fetch one up please and give me something to stick one end into that will give your phone what it needs. Then it shows up and I make a hole for it. Done.

And run loose I did :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

Part of the joy is the research and then finding USA companies with great customer support and excellent products. It's awesome being able to call and talk to someone that actually understands your technical questions and gives the exact information you were looking to get. The place I ordered the USB snap-ins for the front "control center" is HQ'd in San Diego. Excellent product.

(Click for larger pics)


1732217012553.png



The company for the USB power supplies is HQ'd in Florida. I was very happy with finding thing below. This small thing can deliver 100W on each port with 12V DC input (and upto 140W with more voltage in). Built with vehicle use in mind, and more than sufficient for charging anything I would need to inside the vehicle. Supports all the modern USB power delivery protocols. This will go next to the SSV works amplifier in the OEM radio cavity and power the two USB ports. I ordered one more of the same thing for the rear panel that I posted above. I wanted to get an even smaller one (65W each port) but they were not going to be restocking for months and this one was still small enough for the space. The two port panel plug in the blue sea panel I posted earlier is also from these same folks.

1732218891393.png


1732217820513.png


If anyone cares for the specifics of what items I got, let me know and I can share the information.
 
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Good choice of radio Sri. I have the 1st gen of the 935G. I got one of those cup holder mounts for it. Probably overkill for your use case, but a solid radio. If you are just looking to talk to your buddies on a jeep run, those radios will do just fine without an external antenna.
View attachment 574134

Overkill is the general theme here :) I paid and got my GMRS "license" one or two years ago. I am way too lazy to take the Ham radio tests, though probably can pass it (not that it is a difficult test). The 935G+ is good enough for what I need. Might get a 771G antenna for it and just keep it somewhere if the need arises.

Philosophically, a Ham setup makes more sense as a permanent setup in a vehicle than GMRS. But I don't think I will go that route unless I get really, really, really very bored and decide to take it up as a hobby. And even then .. in a vehicle .. not likely happening.
 
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Maybe, we do have the consideration of retaining a semblance of a stock appearing vehicle and the antenna is part of that. If they make a GMRS antenna that looks like the stock antenna, then sure. Or if the stock antenna can be converted to GMRS, then sure.

The frequencies GMRS radios operate is different (465 Mhz, considered "UHF" from what I recall, someone correct me if I am wrong) compared to AM/FM (80-110 MHz). AM is even lower in Khz range. So the factory antenna would need to be cut in length to match the GMRS wavelength (465MHz-->25.38”, so a 1/4 wave antenna would be 6.35” and a 1/2 wave wave would be 12.69”, 5/8 wave would be 15.86” and so on) and then fine tuned. Also would have to check how it does handling the transmit power from typical mobile GMRS units (30-50W?). Then the factory connection to the antenna needs to be cut and then whatever connection type a GMRS radio uses is common needs to be adapted. All of this can be done, but it's too much work and likely we will still end up with a poor antenna.

Below is what I think would work reasonably well for GMRS (see the whip length) ... there are other "stubby" designs too that supposedly work well.

https://theantennafarm.com/shop-by-...igh-gain-antennas/816-larsen-nmo4503cs-detail
https://theantennafarm.com/shop-by-...igh-gain-antennas/817-larsen-nmowb450c-detail

There are many folks on this board who know way more I do. If said something wrong or have incorrect assumptions here, please feel free to correct. If Jerry were here I am sure I would gotten a radio lecture :)
 
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I wanted to share this photo that Blaine sent of the wiring magic for the camera mirror and the 5" backup monitor. That channel you see is obviously not stock. Because of the way the plastic trim needed to be cut, the bottom of the trim won't lay flat and Blaine fabricated that metal piece to stop it from curving and looking wavy. And seeing the opportunity, he made it a channel to help with the super clean wire routing. @mrblaine I hope I said this correctly, please correct if I am being a dumbo.

I love that no one will ever see or peek at all this behind the trim but irrespective, Blaine made it look super clean and OEM.

1732245844591.png
 
The frequencies GMRS radios operate is different (465 Mhz, considered "UHF" from what I recall, someone correct me if I am wrong) compared to AM/FM (80-110 MHz). AM is even lower in Khz range. So the factory antenna would need to be cut in length to match the GMRS wavelength (465MHz-->25.38”, so a 1/4 wave antenna would be 6.35” and a 1/2 wave wave would be 12.69”, 5/8 wave would be 15.86” and so on) and then fine tuned. Also would have to check how it does handling the transmit power from typical mobile GMRS units (30-50W?). Then the factory connection to the antenna needs to be cut and then whatever connection type a GMRS radio uses is common needs to be adapted. All of this can be done, but it's too much work and likely we will still end up with a poor antenna.

Below is what I think would work reasonably well for GMRS (see the whip length) ... there are other "stubby" designs too that supposedly work well.

https://theantennafarm.com/shop-by-...igh-gain-antennas/816-larsen-nmo4503cs-detail
https://theantennafarm.com/shop-by-...igh-gain-antennas/817-larsen-nmowb450c-detail

There are many folks on this board who know way more I do. If said something wrong or have incorrect assumptions here, please feel free to correct. If Jerry were here I am sure I would gotten a radio lecture :)

The only things I know less about than beer and USB power is anything to do with radio.
 
The frequencies GMRS radios operate is different (465 Mhz, considered "UHF" from what I recall, someone correct me if I am wrong) compared to AM/FM (80-110 MHz). AM is even lower in Khz range. So the factory antenna would need to be cut in length to match the GMRS wavelength (465MHz-->25.38”, so a 1/4 wave antenna would be 6.35” and a 1/2 wave wave would be 12.69”, 5/8 wave would be 15.86” and so on) and then fine tuned. Also would have to check how it does handling the transmit power from typical mobile GMRS units (30-50W?). Then the factory connection to the antenna needs to be cut and then whatever connection type a GMRS radio uses is common needs to be adapted. All of this can be done, but it's too much work and likely we will still end up with a poor antenna.

Below is what I think would work reasonably well for GMRS (see the whip length) ... there are other "stubby" designs too that supposedly work well.

https://theantennafarm.com/shop-by-...igh-gain-antennas/816-larsen-nmo4503cs-detail
https://theantennafarm.com/shop-by-...igh-gain-antennas/817-larsen-nmowb450c-detail

There are many folks on this board who know way more I do. If said something wrong or have incorrect assumptions here, please feel free to correct. If Jerry were here I am sure I would gotten a radio lecture :)

You have many antenna options. The factory radio antenna is not one of them. The factory radio uses a 75 ohm coax and feedpoint. Even if you cut the end off the coax and installed the right connector and trimmed the whip there would be a mismatch.

The two antennas listed will work great. The longer one has more gain which I doubt you will ever use while wheeling with friends. You still need a groundplane so mount it to something metal. The nice thing about GMRS is the frequency is so high you don't need a large groundplane like CB (which is 9').

If you have specific questions about radio, let me know. If you want suggestions, let me know. There are many ways to tackle this subject.
 
You have many antenna options. The factory radio antenna is not one of them. The factory radio uses a 75 ohm coax and feedpoint. Even if you cut the end off the coax and installed the right connector and trimmed the whip there would be a mismatch.

The two antennas listed will work great. The longer one has more gain which I doubt you will ever use while wheeling with friends. You still need a groundplane so mount it to something metal. The nice thing about GMRS is the frequency is so high you don't need a large groundplane like CB (which is 9').

If you have specific questions about radio, let me know. If you want suggestions, let me know. There are many ways to tackle this subject.

To save everyone the effort, we won't be installing a GMRS antenna. The pair of handheld radios in charging docks will be more than plenty for his needs.
 
Overkill is the general theme here :) I paid and got my GMRS "license" one or two years ago. I am way too lazy to take the Ham radio tests, though probably can pass it (not that it is a difficult test). The 935G+ is good enough for what I need. Might get a 771G antenna for it and just keep it somewhere if the need arises.

Philosophically, a Ham setup makes more sense as a permanent setup in a vehicle than GMRS. But I don't think I will go that route unless I get really, really, really very bored and decide to take it up as a hobby. And even then .. in a vehicle .. not likely happening.

One of those antennas you listed and a NMO mag mount, plus an adapter from a PL259 to a SMA for the radio and you could just slap that antenna on the hood if you needed to get some extended range. The hood makes for a good ground plane. Of course, you don't want the antenna on the hood when driving high speeds, but you get the idea. Check "MYGMRS.COM for repeaters in your area. Just like Jeeping, radio can get addictive, so enter with caution, lol!
 
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I looked at looked and I could not find a setup I liked for a smartphone mount. Primary use for me would be GPS navigation. There was one compromise or another, and usually more than one (location, design, cabling , mounting, stability...). I told Blaine about this and said that I liked the A-pillar location since your eyes scan that area automatically while driving. Blaine took all my needs into consideration and designed a mount by hand .. whipped it up in a matter of days. It is made of metal, and will be used with a magnetic RAM mount ball and socket system. The magnets are strong! Not only is super functional, but is also the best that I have seen that fits in the design language of the the TJ interior. The curves and the finish work on it is just spectacular. The USB port in that location will let us use a short USB cable to power the smartphone. No damned dangling cables!). The RAM mounts will stay in the center console till I need to use it.

I am really stoked to have this in my Jeep. Thank you for making this for me Blaine!


1732414140444.png