Nothing I need, everything I want (2005 TJR, impact orange)
- Thread starter psrivats
- Start date
We need to get very clear on something. I don't know that I do anything the "best" way. I do things in a way that make sense to me based on a particular frame of logic. I can explain why I do something and the problem I have identified and am attempting to solve. My why, my problems, and my solutions to them may not fit everyone's needs so they are not gospel and should never be taken as such. I have a way I do things, I can explain why.
I have 2-3 different ones that I use for no particular reason. I don't know enough about them to know if I have a good one or a crap one. I'll get the names today for you. All I really know is I had more of them than I thought and the fact that they are zinc based sorta freaks me out a bit due to knowing how hard it is to weld galvanized and the poor weld quality that produces.
I was hoping you had come up with some reasons why one is better than the other. IMO they seem to fence sit as being a useful gimmick. I like the idea I question how well it works though.
I do not have any reasons why. Reading about this, they are supplied to prevent or slow down corrosion between sheet metal panels when doing body work. You are supposed to apply it, let dry and then do your plug welds. That is a reasonable approximation of what I'm after inside the long stiffener, areas I am unsure I will get lots of paint coverage into, and some other bits. I have no better solution except to strip out the axle housing, get it galvanized and that will never happen. I have no idea if this will work as well as I want it to but I don't know what else to do.
Yes, you do, and yes, you can. That's rare, and why I used the term "best." In all our interactions (forum posts, emails, phone calls), you always rely on your extensive personal experience building TJs, but more importantly, your ability to think through a problem and possible solutions, to determine an appropriate course of action. Having that as a resource is incredible to me. I can build my LJ and be confident that my trial and error re-work will be substantially reduced. I really appreciate it, and want to give you kudos because you don't have to give so much of your time to all of us.
In a different life, my absolute fulfillment would have been to be a teacher of complicated things to those with a desire to learn. In this life, I get a smattering of that which is highly diluted with arguing with idiots. Were it not for the former, the latter would be much less, probably to the point of just not doing it.Yes, you do, and yes, you can. That's rare, and why I used the term "best." In all our interactions (forum posts, emails, phone calls), you always rely on your extensive personal experience building TJs, but more importantly, your ability to think through a problem and possible solutions, to determine an appropriate course of action. Having that as a resource is incredible to me. I can build my LJ and be confident that my trial and error re-work will be substantially reduced. I really appreciate it, and want to give you kudos because you don't have to give so much of your time to all of us.
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More of a general question than something I think you should change, but would "skeletonizing" the mini truss take away too much strength? It would certainly make it easier to get some sort of coating in there.
I suppose with something like an eastwood internal frame coating, as long as there is a small hole that is accessible, you could shove the nozzle tube in the truss and squirt it full of that stuff.
There are two pieces involved, the long tube stiffener and the mini truss mount over the diff. Which are you referring to?
Ideally, I'd like a structural expanding foam with rust proofing properties I could fill certain areas with. I don't trust the complete fill ability or the rust proof aspect.
Both, though skeletonizing the part over the diff cover would probably have more chance of failure.
I recently had a good look inside the back of my frame when I cut it for the rear frame raise. I had done the Eastwood internal coating a couple of times prior and pretty thoroughly, I thought. It was surprising how much area had not been coated.
Continuing the build photos ..
After the truss/stiffener was finished, it was time to start on the swaybar links.
Here is the raised swaybar link mount getting mocked up. Blaine pulled the upper ball joints so the heat from welding won't mess up the races.
After welding them in place using the original mounts as locators (and making them look as if they came that way originally!) ...
This jeep is getting the BMB hydro assist setup. Blaine built the inner brace for the hydro-assist mount since the bolt on mount won’t work with the Savvy stiffener welded on. He also trimmed the corner off of the left side spring perch and made a new skirt to stiffen it back up. This is done so that the corner of the spring perch will not hit the trackbar barrel at full stuff.
There is a lot of inner detail in this work for maximizing everything that is is possible that only comes from experience and refinement over years.
And after finishing both sides, Blaine prepped and painted the axle with 2 coats of the Black Top KBS satin.
After the truss/stiffener was finished, it was time to start on the swaybar links.
Here is the raised swaybar link mount getting mocked up. Blaine pulled the upper ball joints so the heat from welding won't mess up the races.
After welding them in place using the original mounts as locators (and making them look as if they came that way originally!) ...
This jeep is getting the BMB hydro assist setup. Blaine built the inner brace for the hydro-assist mount since the bolt on mount won’t work with the Savvy stiffener welded on. He also trimmed the corner off of the left side spring perch and made a new skirt to stiffen it back up. This is done so that the corner of the spring perch will not hit the trackbar barrel at full stuff.
There is a lot of inner detail in this work for maximizing everything that is is possible that only comes from experience and refinement over years.
And after finishing both sides, Blaine prepped and painted the axle with 2 coats of the Black Top KBS satin.
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I forgot to mention it before, but both the front and rear axles are already re-geared to 5.38s (Revolution) for the 35s/42RLE. And Jeep will have ARB air lockers front and rear replacing the factory system. Many thanks to @Blackjack for helping us with a great deal on the ARBs, thank you Sir!
I had 5.38s with 33s/42RLEs in the black jeep and really liked how peppy it felt. I talked to Blaine in detail about 5.89s/42RLE since the Grimmjeeper numbers looks fantastic. But the driveshaft rpms become pretty darned high at hwy speeds and after talking to experts with lots of experience, we realized that it's not trivial to get guaranteed balance at those kinds of speeds and there is always an element of risk even with doing high speed balance and all that. Also, if we went 5.89s and realized that we run into problems, it becomes quite expensive to back to 5.38s, both money and time/effort wise. Given my distaste dealing with vibration and all these factors, we decided on 5.38s on the orange jeep.
I had 5.38s with 33s/42RLEs in the black jeep and really liked how peppy it felt. I talked to Blaine in detail about 5.89s/42RLE since the Grimmjeeper numbers looks fantastic. But the driveshaft rpms become pretty darned high at hwy speeds and after talking to experts with lots of experience, we realized that it's not trivial to get guaranteed balance at those kinds of speeds and there is always an element of risk even with doing high speed balance and all that. Also, if we went 5.89s and realized that we run into problems, it becomes quite expensive to back to 5.38s, both money and time/effort wise. Given my distaste dealing with vibration and all these factors, we decided on 5.38s on the orange jeep.
It's in Post #11 above the picture: Iron Rock Offroad mounts.
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